What dino oil to use with MLEP?
#1
What dino oil to use with MLEP?
Hi, reading through the forums it looks like Valvoline MaxLife Engine Protector (MLEP) is the only additive able to mimic Honda's break-in oil. Now I need to figure out the missing part of the equation, which dino oil should I use in conjunction with this to try to mimic honda's break-in oil?
I've been debating whether just to use the oil's at the dealer and ask them to add a bottle of MLEP in. I have also been looking into Mobil Clean 5000 and Mobil Clean High Mileage.
http://www.mobil1.com/USA-English/MotorOil...Clean_5000.aspx
http://www.mobil1.com/USA-English/MotorOil...gh_Mileage.aspx
Any thoughts?
Road Rage - what do you suggest?
Thanks!
I've been debating whether just to use the oil's at the dealer and ask them to add a bottle of MLEP in. I have also been looking into Mobil Clean 5000 and Mobil Clean High Mileage.
http://www.mobil1.com/USA-English/MotorOil...Clean_5000.aspx
http://www.mobil1.com/USA-English/MotorOil...gh_Mileage.aspx
Any thoughts?
Road Rage - what do you suggest?
Thanks!
#2
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www.mrmoly.com
get the moly breakin addative, and use mobil drive clean dino oil, and that's as close to the breakin oil as you can get.
get the moly breakin addative, and use mobil drive clean dino oil, and that's as close to the breakin oil as you can get.
#4
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Just use Redline 10w30. Superior synthetic over dino with tons of moly. I dumped the "break in" oil at 2K miles, ran the Redline for 4K miles.
The relevant analysis wear numbers were:
Iron 9
Lead 3.3
Copper 27
Silicon 24
Sodium 17
Aluminum 7
TBN 6.21
Visc 10.6
I drove the car hard, as it's meant to be. Redline did not shear at all and it had a lot of life left.
The relevant analysis wear numbers were:
Iron 9
Lead 3.3
Copper 27
Silicon 24
Sodium 17
Aluminum 7
TBN 6.21
Visc 10.6
I drove the car hard, as it's meant to be. Redline did not shear at all and it had a lot of life left.
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Originally Posted by RyRy210,May 18 2005, 05:53 PM
Hi, reading through the forums it looks like Valvoline MaxLife Engine Protector (MLEP) is the only additive able to mimic Honda's break-in oil. Now I need to figure out the missing part of the equation, which dino oil should I use in conjunction with this to try to mimic honda's break-in oil?
Valvoline SynPower Oil Treatment is better than Valvoline MaxLife Engine Protector and it costs less too, $4 vs $6. Below are VOA of each additive:
Valvoline SynPower Oil Treatment:
Molybdenum (Mo): 2324 ppm
Calcium (Ca): 1050 ppm
Magnesium (Mg): 968 ppm
Phosphorus (P): 1792 ppm
Zinc (Zn): 1740 ppm
Valvoline MaxLife Engine Protector:
Molybdenum (Mo): 489 ppm
Calcium (Ca): 240 ppm
Magnesium (Mg): 57 ppm
Phosphorus (P): 567 ppm
Zinc (Zn): 625 ppm
If you add 1 bottle of Valvoline SynPower Oil Treatment to 5 quarts of Halvoline GF4, you will have about 630 ppm of Moly which is close to Honda's break-in oil. Because this Oil Treatment is very thick, you may want to use either 5W30 or 5W20 dino oil.
#7
I actually just picked up Havoline 10W-30 GF4 last night for my '05's first oil change to be done at 3,750 miles, which will be any day now.
Should I use any of those Valvoline additives, even though it's 10W-30?
Should I use any of those Valvoline additives, even though it's 10W-30?
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#8
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I would exchange Havoline 10W-30 to 5W20 and use one 15 oz bottle of Valvoline SynPower Oil Treatment. The final viscosity will be a little higher than 10W30, which is okay for summer. I am currently use 1/2 bottle of VSOP with 5 quarts Mobil 7500 5W30, this is my second oil change at 7000 miles. I will do the third oil change at 10k miles in about 2 to 3 weeks, at that time I will use Mobil1 0W30 with 1 bottle of VSOP. Since I drive only about 7000 miles a year, mostly short trips of about 5 miles, I need synthetic oil so that I will need to change oil only once a year.
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Originally Posted by Wisconsin S2k,May 19 2005, 02:01 PM
There is a REASON you need the moly. <sigh>
And don't put synthetic in after a mere 2000 miles. Wait 7500-10000
I hope you realize you might have significantly shortened your engine's life.....
And don't put synthetic in after a mere 2000 miles. Wait 7500-10000
I hope you realize you might have significantly shortened your engine's life.....
This is an oil analysis of Honda Factory Fill from an Accord V6 with 2900 miles :
Aluminum 9
Chromium 1
Iron 57
Copper 174
Lead 4
Tin 3
Molybdenum 479
Nickel 0
Manganese 0
Silver 0
Titanium 0
Potassium 0
Boron 53
Silicon 78
Calcium 2143
Magnesium 5
Phosphorus 880
Zinc 1282
Barium 5
And here is Redline 10w30 with 4K on the oil
Iron9.8
Chromium (Cr) 0.5
Nickel (Ni) 0.1
Titanium (Ti) 0.1
Silver (Ag) 0.5
Aluminum (Al) 7.2
Lead (Pb) 3.3
Copper (Cu) 27
Tin (Sn) 0.2
Silicon (Si) 24
Sodium (Na) 17
Potassium (K) 0.0
Boron (B) 17
Barium (Ba) 1.6
Molybdenum (Mo) 586
Magnesium (Mg) 9.7
Calcium (Ca) 2760
Phosphorus (P) 1143
Zinc (Zn) 1275
Sulfur (S) 4757
Manganese (Mn) 2.2
Vanadium (V) 0.6
Obviously this isn't a fair comparison but the Redline has a much higher Moly content than Honda OEM..
So can you enlighten us on what am I missing that I can't see from the UOA?
#10
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Originally Posted by QIKSILVR,May 19 2005, 04:15 PM
How have I shortened my engine's life by using a synthetic oil at 2K? What about the cars that come with synthetic oil from the factory?
This is an oil analysis of Honda Factory Fill from an Accord V6 with 2900 miles :
Aluminum 9
Chromium 1
Iron 57
Copper 174
Lead 4
Tin 3
Molybdenum 479
Nickel 0
Manganese 0
Silver 0
Titanium 0
Potassium 0
Boron 53
Silicon 78
Calcium 2143
Magnesium 5
Phosphorus 880
Zinc 1282
Barium 5
And here is Redline 10w30 with 4K on the oil
Iron9.8
Chromium (Cr) 0.5
Nickel (Ni) 0.1
Titanium (Ti) 0.1
Silver (Ag) 0.5
Aluminum (Al) 7.2
Lead (Pb) 3.3
Copper (Cu) 27
Tin (Sn) 0.2
Silicon (Si) 24
Sodium (Na) 17
Potassium (K) 0.0
Boron (B) 17
Barium (Ba) 1.6
Molybdenum (Mo) 586
Magnesium (Mg) 9.7
Calcium (Ca) 2760
Phosphorus (P) 1143
Zinc (Zn) 1275
Sulfur (S) 4757
Manganese (Mn) 2.2
Vanadium (V) 0.6
Obviously this isn't a fair comparison but the Redline has a much higher Moly content than Honda OEM..
So can you enlighten us on what am I missing that I can't see from the UOA?
This is an oil analysis of Honda Factory Fill from an Accord V6 with 2900 miles :
Aluminum 9
Chromium 1
Iron 57
Copper 174
Lead 4
Tin 3
Molybdenum 479
Nickel 0
Manganese 0
Silver 0
Titanium 0
Potassium 0
Boron 53
Silicon 78
Calcium 2143
Magnesium 5
Phosphorus 880
Zinc 1282
Barium 5
And here is Redline 10w30 with 4K on the oil
Iron9.8
Chromium (Cr) 0.5
Nickel (Ni) 0.1
Titanium (Ti) 0.1
Silver (Ag) 0.5
Aluminum (Al) 7.2
Lead (Pb) 3.3
Copper (Cu) 27
Tin (Sn) 0.2
Silicon (Si) 24
Sodium (Na) 17
Potassium (K) 0.0
Boron (B) 17
Barium (Ba) 1.6
Molybdenum (Mo) 586
Magnesium (Mg) 9.7
Calcium (Ca) 2760
Phosphorus (P) 1143
Zinc (Zn) 1275
Sulfur (S) 4757
Manganese (Mn) 2.2
Vanadium (V) 0.6
Obviously this isn't a fair comparison but the Redline has a much higher Moly content than Honda OEM..
So can you enlighten us on what am I missing that I can't see from the UOA?
This is all according to honda, so if you wish to argue it, you can take it up with the people that engineered and designed the car. The reason there is not a similar TSB on the S2k is because honda assumes people will follow the breakin procedure of not changing the factory oil until 7500 miles.