What did you pay to replace the wheel bearing?
10-12-2014, 10:13 AM
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: socal
Posts: 495
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
What did you pay to replace the wheel bearing?
My wheel bearing is making noise all of the sudden. Sounded like the brakes were catching or scraping but figured out it's most likely the driver's side wheel bearing.
I know it's a common problem but what am I looking at for labor for this assuming it's only 1 wheel?
What did you end up paying for it?
Hopefully it's not too expensive!
I know it's a common problem but what am I looking at for labor for this assuming it's only 1 wheel?
What did you end up paying for it?
Hopefully it's not too expensive!
10-12-2014, 04:52 PM
#3
Costs about $50 at a machine shop to get them pressed in provided you remove the knuckles yourself. OEM is the way to go, but a lot of people have had good experience with Doorman hubs and Timken bearings, as the OEM bearing manufacturer makes the bearings for Timken. If you go this route you'll be spending about $75 in parts per wheel. OEM is about $100 more expensive per wheel. A good experienced mechanic can do each wheel bearing in about an hour and a half, the book specifies about 2 hours each figuring about $75/h labor rate, you're looking at roughly $150/wheel. For that amount of money you can buy all the tools you need to do it yourself quite frankly, there are plenty of very detailed diy's to doing it and believe it or not, it's actually quite straight forward.
All you need is a 36mm socket, and a big ass braker bar to remove the axle nut. A 17mm socket to remove the castle nuts of the three ball joints, a 17mm and 14mm wrench and/or socket to remove the brake calipers and brackets, a 10mm to remove the abs sensor. Ball joint separators to pop off the ball joints, pliers to remove the castle nut cotter pins, new cotter pins to replace them when putting everything back together. A 1/2" drive torque wrench that can read up to 240 ft lbs to re-install the axle nut, and another 3/8" drive torque wrench that can read up to 90 ft lbs for the castle nuts. Snap ring pliers to remove the big snap ring in the knuckle, and a 10 ton press with assorted dies to press out the hub, bearings, and to press in the new ones.
All you need is a 36mm socket, and a big ass braker bar to remove the axle nut. A 17mm socket to remove the castle nuts of the three ball joints, a 17mm and 14mm wrench and/or socket to remove the brake calipers and brackets, a 10mm to remove the abs sensor. Ball joint separators to pop off the ball joints, pliers to remove the castle nut cotter pins, new cotter pins to replace them when putting everything back together. A 1/2" drive torque wrench that can read up to 240 ft lbs to re-install the axle nut, and another 3/8" drive torque wrench that can read up to 90 ft lbs for the castle nuts. Snap ring pliers to remove the big snap ring in the knuckle, and a 10 ton press with assorted dies to press out the hub, bearings, and to press in the new ones.
10-12-2014, 06:01 PM
#4
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: socal
Posts: 495
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Costs about $50 at a machine shop to get them pressed in provided you remove the knuckles yourself. OEM is the way to go, but a lot of people have had good experience with Doorman hubs and Timken bearings, as the OEM bearing manufacturer makes the bearings for Timken. If you go this route you'll be spending about $75 in parts per wheel. OEM is about $100 more expensive per wheel. A good experienced mechanic can do each wheel bearing in about an hour and a half, the book specifies about 2 hours each figuring about $75/h labor rate, you're looking at roughly $150/wheel. For that amount of money you can buy all the tools you need to do it yourself quite frankly, there are plenty of very detailed diy's to doing it and believe it or not, it's actually quite straight forward.
All you need is a 36mm socket, and a big ass braker bar to remove the axle nut. A 17mm socket to remove the castle nuts of the three ball joints, a 17mm and 14mm wrench and/or socket to remove the brake calipers and brackets, a 10mm to remove the abs sensor. Ball joint separators to pop off the ball joints, pliers to remove the castle nut cotter pins, new cotter pins to replace them when putting everything back together. A 1/2" drive torque wrench that can read up to 240 ft lbs to re-install the axle nut, and another 3/8" drive torque wrench that can read up to 90 ft lbs for the castle nuts. Snap ring pliers to remove the big snap ring in the knuckle, and a 10 ton press with assorted dies to press out the hub, bearings, and to press in the new ones.
All you need is a 36mm socket, and a big ass braker bar to remove the axle nut. A 17mm socket to remove the castle nuts of the three ball joints, a 17mm and 14mm wrench and/or socket to remove the brake calipers and brackets, a 10mm to remove the abs sensor. Ball joint separators to pop off the ball joints, pliers to remove the castle nut cotter pins, new cotter pins to replace them when putting everything back together. A 1/2" drive torque wrench that can read up to 240 ft lbs to re-install the axle nut, and another 3/8" drive torque wrench that can read up to 90 ft lbs for the castle nuts. Snap ring pliers to remove the big snap ring in the knuckle, and a 10 ton press with assorted dies to press out the hub, bearings, and to press in the new ones.
10-12-2014, 08:10 PM
#5
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Foothills East of Sacramento
Posts: 5,904
Received 1,752 Likes
on
1,045 Posts
I believe current feeling is the 240 ft lbs is not enough (according to Billman) and the best way to set the axle nut is to take it to 180 ft lbs and then 60 degrees more before re-staking.
10-13-2014, 03:20 AM
#6
That's why I said one that can read up to 240, so you can tq to 180, plus 60 degrees 
since it's a 6 sided nut each face = 60 degrees 6*60=360. Since I'm not that strong I use my scissor jack and some tape to move the breaker bar one side over from where the axle nut used to line up.
since it's a 6 sided nut each face = 60 degrees 6*60=360. Since I'm not that strong I use my scissor jack and some tape to move the breaker bar one side over from where the axle nut used to line up.
10-13-2014, 04:51 AM
#7
It took me about 4 hours total to do both front hubs and because I just popped the steering knuckle off and on, I didn't even need a wheel alignment.
Trending Topics
10-14-2014, 04:14 PM
#8
How did you all find was the easiest way to tighten the front 36mm axle nut? I ended up pulling the car up on some ramps and barely had enough clearance to lie under the car and tq it.
10-14-2014, 05:38 PM
#9
I used my legs, they're a lot stronger than my arms. I just torqued the fronts to 160 with my arms, then I used a breaker bar and pushed with my legs, I'm guessing I have it at about 320ft lbs, I don't know if it's exactly even on both sides, I just tried to move them the same distance, which was tricky because you have to move the bar in the opposite direction on each wheel. I just moved the nut over one face which is roughly 60 degrees.
10-15-2014, 06:18 AM
#10
Originally Posted by Slowcrash_101' timestamp='1413161530' post='23366897
Costs about $50 at a machine shop to get them pressed in provided you remove the knuckles yourself. OEM is the way to go, but a lot of people have had good experience with Doorman hubs and Timken bearings, as the OEM bearing manufacturer makes the bearings for Timken. If you go this route you'll be spending about $75 in parts per wheel. OEM is about $100 more expensive per wheel. A good experienced mechanic can do each wheel bearing in about an hour and a half, the book specifies about 2 hours each figuring about $75/h labor rate, you're looking at roughly $150/wheel. For that amount of money you can buy all the tools you need to do it yourself quite frankly, there are plenty of very detailed diy's to doing it and believe it or not, it's actually quite straight forward.
All you need is a 36mm socket, and a big ass braker bar to remove the axle nut. A 17mm socket to remove the castle nuts of the three ball joints, a 17mm and 14mm wrench and/or socket to remove the brake calipers and brackets, a 10mm to remove the abs sensor. Ball joint separators to pop off the ball joints, pliers to remove the castle nut cotter pins, new cotter pins to replace them when putting everything back together. A 1/2" drive torque wrench that can read up to 240 ft lbs to re-install the axle nut, and another 3/8" drive torque wrench that can read up to 90 ft lbs for the castle nuts. Snap ring pliers to remove the big snap ring in the knuckle, and a 10 ton press with assorted dies to press out the hub, bearings, and to press in the new ones.
All you need is a 36mm socket, and a big ass braker bar to remove the axle nut. A 17mm socket to remove the castle nuts of the three ball joints, a 17mm and 14mm wrench and/or socket to remove the brake calipers and brackets, a 10mm to remove the abs sensor. Ball joint separators to pop off the ball joints, pliers to remove the castle nut cotter pins, new cotter pins to replace them when putting everything back together. A 1/2" drive torque wrench that can read up to 240 ft lbs to re-install the axle nut, and another 3/8" drive torque wrench that can read up to 90 ft lbs for the castle nuts. Snap ring pliers to remove the big snap ring in the knuckle, and a 10 ton press with assorted dies to press out the hub, bearings, and to press in the new ones.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post