What is the Color of the Cylinder Walls
07-16-2006, 07:06 PM
#1
Thread Starter
What is the Color of the Cylinder Walls
Hi guys.
I bought a new short block for my S and I received it and the one thing I didn't like about it is that the Cylinder walls aren't White -ceramic coated as the Original motor on my car.Had a #1 Cylinder failure and had to buy a new short block.
I suspect that the motor might be second grade quality because of this.If that's possible at all.
They are normal silver Aluminum color and it looks like I bored my old block and took off the Reinforced fiber coating.
So all of you guys who bought or got new short block please share in what state did your new short block come.
Anyway it's shipped from Japan and the Pistons are Size B .
I plan on asking my dealer what is up with this and why the new motor isn't ceramic coated.Or it is and it just needs the piston rings to seat?From first impression I am worried.And also can I run Synthetic Oil from Start up I plan on using Castrol 10-60w.
anyway thanks for the input,
I bought a new short block for my S and I received it and the one thing I didn't like about it is that the Cylinder walls aren't White -ceramic coated as the Original motor on my car.Had a #1 Cylinder failure and had to buy a new short block.
I suspect that the motor might be second grade quality because of this.If that's possible at all.
They are normal silver Aluminum color and it looks like I bored my old block and took off the Reinforced fiber coating.
So all of you guys who bought or got new short block please share in what state did your new short block come.
Anyway it's shipped from Japan and the Pistons are Size B .
I plan on asking my dealer what is up with this and why the new motor isn't ceramic coated.Or it is and it just needs the piston rings to seat?From first impression I am worried.And also can I run Synthetic Oil from Start up I plan on using Castrol 10-60w.
anyway thanks for the input,
07-17-2006, 03:16 PM
#5
Former Moderator
Cylinder wall finish is a little more in depth than just the color.
Where did the shortblock come from?
The only oversize piston from honda is .25mm overbore. A new shortblock will still have standard bore sizes, not a oversize.
Post a picture of what you are concerned about.
Where did the shortblock come from?
The only oversize piston from honda is .25mm overbore. A new shortblock will still have standard bore sizes, not a oversize.
Post a picture of what you are concerned about.
07-17-2006, 03:56 PM
#7
Thread Starter
Yeah.
10-60W will be my next choice.
I had put Mobil 1 That was imported from The USA 10-30w had it on for 300 miles and my car Started having that Tap-tap-tap noise.
I am tired of low viscosity oil.I had Motul 300V 10-40w Chrono and I did few local races and when I pulled there was tapping noise from the head like there wasn't sufficient oil.And when I checked it was 1 bar above min.Anyway lets be real,Superchargers make the car go faster,burn faster,and Run hotter and Thicker oil is More heat resistant.SO I run my car Hard from time to time and I plan on going safe than sorry so 10-60w isn't quite Honda oil but Supercharger isn't quite how our cars come,
About the Shortblock,it Brand new From My dealer and has the Second Stock size B pistons and my old Motor has the same.
We here in Europe Still run the F20.
So,I shouldnt worry about the Quality of the New block?
The old one is White like milk and the new one is silver and probably will come white?Maybe the piston rings will take off the first protective coating?
Thanks,
stefce
10-60W will be my next choice.
I had put Mobil 1 That was imported from The USA 10-30w had it on for 300 miles and my car Started having that Tap-tap-tap noise.
I am tired of low viscosity oil.I had Motul 300V 10-40w Chrono and I did few local races and when I pulled there was tapping noise from the head like there wasn't sufficient oil.And when I checked it was 1 bar above min.Anyway lets be real,Superchargers make the car go faster,burn faster,and Run hotter and Thicker oil is More heat resistant.SO I run my car Hard from time to time and I plan on going safe than sorry so 10-60w isn't quite Honda oil but Supercharger isn't quite how our cars come,
About the Shortblock,it Brand new From My dealer and has the Second Stock size B pistons and my old Motor has the same.
We here in Europe Still run the F20.
So,I shouldnt worry about the Quality of the New block?
The old one is White like milk and the new one is silver and probably will come white?Maybe the piston rings will take off the first protective coating?
Thanks,
stefce
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07-17-2006, 07:29 PM
#8
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I would not run a 10w-60 weight oil in this car. That's just rediculous. Use what the manual says and try not to re-invent the wheel. If your climate is hot and you need a little heavier oil, use the 5w-40 the manual recommends instead of the 10w-30. A 60 weight oil is just too thick for a high reving engine like this. The tapping noise you hear is most likely normal. This is a high compression, hand built motor with forged pistons. It's going to make tapping/knocking noises. My motor has made noises like these since I picked it up from the dealer. I'd be willing to bet your 10w-60 weight oil is going to run hotter than a 10w-30. Pressure will be higher, but flow will be reduced and you do not want to reduce flow in a motor that turns 9k RPM. Just my .02.
07-18-2006, 09:41 PM
#9
Thread Starter
About the oil.
I know that 10-60w is thick and but I was amazed with a specification on the German castrol site where they have two 10-60w oils,one normal and one 10-60w supersport.
The normal 10-60w is the only oil to pass BMW M standard and we all know that the M-engines are High revving NA engines and newer ones go just below 9krpm.Well anyway I agree that our car is designed with the 40W in mind but that is NA and now its boosted and I think it will need thicker oil ...Cos its running hotter than normal.
On the other hand when NA I have switched from 0-20w to 5-50w and than back to 0-20W because I could definitely feel a difference in the cars performance.With the 0-20w the car Revved great and pulled from every RPM especially the lower range from 2-5 and with the 5-50w the car struggled to get to VTEC and when it got there the car had to pull cos of it but that defiantly wasn't good feeling.Slow response and heavier rising of Revs.But now with teh SC there is always power there.And the Oil film of the thicker oil will be there on higher temps.
I was using Premium Fuchs GT1 0-20w,great Oil for NA,
Thanks for the advice anyway,just my 2 cents
I know that 10-60w is thick and but I was amazed with a specification on the German castrol site where they have two 10-60w oils,one normal and one 10-60w supersport.
The normal 10-60w is the only oil to pass BMW M standard and we all know that the M-engines are High revving NA engines and newer ones go just below 9krpm.Well anyway I agree that our car is designed with the 40W in mind but that is NA and now its boosted and I think it will need thicker oil ...Cos its running hotter than normal.
On the other hand when NA I have switched from 0-20w to 5-50w and than back to 0-20W because I could definitely feel a difference in the cars performance.With the 0-20w the car Revved great and pulled from every RPM especially the lower range from 2-5 and with the 5-50w the car struggled to get to VTEC and when it got there the car had to pull cos of it but that defiantly wasn't good feeling.Slow response and heavier rising of Revs.But now with teh SC there is always power there.And the Oil film of the thicker oil will be there on higher temps.
I was using Premium Fuchs GT1 0-20w,great Oil for NA,
Thanks for the advice anyway,just my 2 cents
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