what are the benefits of running a cooler thermostat?
#21
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[QUOTE]Originally posted by gernby
[B]What I mean by cycling normally is that the cooling fan turned on when the engine got hot, then turned back off again when it cooled down.
[B]What I mean by cycling normally is that the cooling fan turned on when the engine got hot, then turned back off again when it cooled down.
#22
Originally posted by Rasputin314
The cars are nearly identical otherwise: ~7000 mi / ~15000 mi, stock coolant / stock coolant + wal-mart brand top off, 9 months / 1 year old, etc.
The cars are nearly identical otherwise: ~7000 mi / ~15000 mi, stock coolant / stock coolant + wal-mart brand top off, 9 months / 1 year old, etc.
From your reply, I got the impression that you may have only run the car for 15 minutes after performing the mod, then ran the test. If that is the case, you probably hadn't burped all the air bubbles out of the system. I had to drive the car several times, turn the heater on and off, and add more coolant several times. It may take a week to get ALL the air out.
#24
[QUOTE]Originally posted by Rasputin314
[B]
It is my understanding that the fan switch activation temperature is higher (10degF?) than the thermostat full-on activation temperature.
[B]
It is my understanding that the fan switch activation temperature is higher (10degF?) than the thermostat full-on activation temperature.
#25
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A few commments...
IAT and ECT are very related, though the effect the intake manifold and under-hood heat has on the IAT. I saw a fair reduction in IAT by reducing the coupling the motor has with the intake air (insulator) as well as reducing the coolant temp.
The fan switch and thermostat helped, albeit to a "variable" amount. On days over 80 degrees, or when I'm on the highway, the fan runs all the time. On short jaunts around town and in cooler weather, the fan cycles as it would normally (with the stock components). My conclusion is that the radiator is just too small for the "heaviest" of loads on the cooling system, and to get the most out of the switch/thermostat you would need to increase capacity (larger radiator). I do think this has a positive effect, though (as-is), but more than likely at the expense of the life of the cooling fan.
FWIW, idling and light in-town driving for some reason is easier on Hondas. Get on the highway and the system gets hot. I'm not sure why, but every Honda I've owned since '89 has had this problem.
IAT and ECT are very related, though the effect the intake manifold and under-hood heat has on the IAT. I saw a fair reduction in IAT by reducing the coupling the motor has with the intake air (insulator) as well as reducing the coolant temp.
The fan switch and thermostat helped, albeit to a "variable" amount. On days over 80 degrees, or when I'm on the highway, the fan runs all the time. On short jaunts around town and in cooler weather, the fan cycles as it would normally (with the stock components). My conclusion is that the radiator is just too small for the "heaviest" of loads on the cooling system, and to get the most out of the switch/thermostat you would need to increase capacity (larger radiator). I do think this has a positive effect, though (as-is), but more than likely at the expense of the life of the cooling fan.
FWIW, idling and light in-town driving for some reason is easier on Hondas. Get on the highway and the system gets hot. I'm not sure why, but every Honda I've owned since '89 has had this problem.
#26
Marcucci,
Do you have an OBD2 scan tool, cable, and / or software? I was hoping that you would have been at the BMW autocross on Saturday. I would like to try and record the temperatures during an autocross. I think that the switch, thermostat, and cap make all the diference in the world. My cooling fan cycled on and off between runs in the start grid, and it was in the mid 80's.
Do you have an OBD2 scan tool, cable, and / or software? I was hoping that you would have been at the BMW autocross on Saturday. I would like to try and record the temperatures during an autocross. I think that the switch, thermostat, and cap make all the diference in the world. My cooling fan cycled on and off between runs in the start grid, and it was in the mid 80's.
#27
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[QUOTE]Originally posted by marcucci
[B]The fan switch and thermostat helped, albeit to a "variable" amount. On days over 80 degrees, or when I'm on the highway, the fan runs all the time.
[B]The fan switch and thermostat helped, albeit to a "variable" amount. On days over 80 degrees, or when I'm on the highway, the fan runs all the time.
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