Weird sound
06-09-2013, 08:31 PM
#3
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2012
Posts: 161
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
06-10-2013, 06:54 AM
#5
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2012
Posts: 161
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
anyone else can confirm what boss s2k is saying ? i was watching videos of people that needs a tct but it seems to be alot louder than my sound. and when i close the lid i dont really hear it. thanks
Trending Topics
06-13-2013, 05:38 AM
#8
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2012
Posts: 161
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The engine only has 60k miles. When I rev the car no problems and the sound goes away but on the recover the engine rattles. And when I'm driving it yesterday on a steep hill my car just lost power for like a second. My car is throwing p1457. Would that cause this issue I'm having?
06-13-2013, 06:05 AM
#9
Whoa,
Audio does weird things on vids, but:
Bottom end - very likely rod knock if it's doing it on decal and idle. Sorry.
I'd check the plug torque too. Could be one loose and rattling under the coil / tube.
As for 1457, check the cap and make sure you don't have vermin eating the wires by the evap connectors under the tank by the driveshaft. Seen that twice.
Audio does weird things on vids, but:
Bottom end - very likely rod knock if it's doing it on decal and idle. Sorry.
I'd check the plug torque too. Could be one loose and rattling under the coil / tube.
As for 1457, check the cap and make sure you don't have vermin eating the wires by the evap connectors under the tank by the driveshaft. Seen that twice.
06-13-2013, 07:34 AM
#10
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 487
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Hey, didn't have time to listen to the vid. I probably wouldn't be of much help in that area anyways.
As far as the p1457, that's not a gas cap code, that is the code when you have a leak from the "canister closed" valve to the engine bay portion.
Billman has a good write up on this, you'll just have to do a forum search on that code.
My car passed all of billman's diagnostics, so I replaced my canister and the code has been off for about a month now. My canister closed valve also passed inspection, so I re-used it. But if I had to do it over again I would've just bought a new one along with the new canister. The new canister comes with an o-ring to replace where the canister closed valve goes, so having to take it off anyways, it makes sense to replace it.
I know most people will call b.s. on me, because evap problems are not supposed to affect engine performance, but I promise you, I had a loss of power from this code. Bypassed the evap system and my car was fine. Now that I've fixed the problem and reconnected my evap system, I'm back to normal.
As far as you power loss, I'd say to trace down the evap lines at the two points where they connect to the intake/throttle area and run them to open air, like out of the hood. Then loop a piece of tubing from one evap-to-intake connection point to the other.
This will totally remove the evap system from the motor, thus taking the evap system out of the equation. Keep in mind this is only temporary, you'll still be throwing the dtc. see if that's solves your power loss issue, then follow billman's how to in order to resolve the code.
As far as the p1457, that's not a gas cap code, that is the code when you have a leak from the "canister closed" valve to the engine bay portion.
Billman has a good write up on this, you'll just have to do a forum search on that code.
My car passed all of billman's diagnostics, so I replaced my canister and the code has been off for about a month now. My canister closed valve also passed inspection, so I re-used it. But if I had to do it over again I would've just bought a new one along with the new canister. The new canister comes with an o-ring to replace where the canister closed valve goes, so having to take it off anyways, it makes sense to replace it.
I know most people will call b.s. on me, because evap problems are not supposed to affect engine performance, but I promise you, I had a loss of power from this code. Bypassed the evap system and my car was fine. Now that I've fixed the problem and reconnected my evap system, I'm back to normal.
As far as you power loss, I'd say to trace down the evap lines at the two points where they connect to the intake/throttle area and run them to open air, like out of the hood. Then loop a piece of tubing from one evap-to-intake connection point to the other.
This will totally remove the evap system from the motor, thus taking the evap system out of the equation. Keep in mind this is only temporary, you'll still be throwing the dtc. see if that's solves your power loss issue, then follow billman's how to in order to resolve the code.