warped rotors? or something else?
02-19-2002, 04:09 AM
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For those who don't know, Carroll Smith is an internationally known and highly respected Race Car Engineer. He has a terrific series of books that are required reading for those interested in real race car tech as opposed to cafe racer stuff. They are the "To Win" series...as in "Prepare to Win".
RT, I don't know if you have cementite or not, but your rotors might. You can check for sure with a hardness tester. Or just look for high plateau areas when you measure thickness to 0.0001. Maybe you need a better pad and more cooling, I dunno your setup.
It's very common for newbies to get pad pick up trouble at driver's schools. Run hot during your cool down, then immediately park it, siting with the brakes on. Later, if you move the car you'll see a ghost pad. That's where a bunch of pad material glued itself onto the disc surface. So the rotor is thicker in that spot. You can scotchbrite it off.
It's better to really use the cool down lap for cooling down,. Then park the car after awhile and roll it (push)about 3 feet after a few minutes. If there is not enough cool down time, you can try slowing down a lap or so earlier. Or drive around the paddock some more, get gas etc. I had a guy start doing this after he complained he'd "warp" rotors every 1-2 runs. Problem solved, now he could go through many events with only a few pad changes.
BTW if you go through pads very quickly, you are experiencing fade whether you know it or not. Cuz pads lose effectiveness at the same time they wear rapidly.
I noticed that the second URL had some interesting comments about big brake kits and ABS and so forth. I don't know if Stop Tech has or will have any S2K options, but it makes me wonder about any existing big brale kits out there.
Stan
RT, I don't know if you have cementite or not, but your rotors might. You can check for sure with a hardness tester. Or just look for high plateau areas when you measure thickness to 0.0001. Maybe you need a better pad and more cooling, I dunno your setup.
It's very common for newbies to get pad pick up trouble at driver's schools. Run hot during your cool down, then immediately park it, siting with the brakes on. Later, if you move the car you'll see a ghost pad. That's where a bunch of pad material glued itself onto the disc surface. So the rotor is thicker in that spot. You can scotchbrite it off.
It's better to really use the cool down lap for cooling down,. Then park the car after awhile and roll it (push)about 3 feet after a few minutes. If there is not enough cool down time, you can try slowing down a lap or so earlier. Or drive around the paddock some more, get gas etc. I had a guy start doing this after he complained he'd "warp" rotors every 1-2 runs. Problem solved, now he could go through many events with only a few pad changes.
BTW if you go through pads very quickly, you are experiencing fade whether you know it or not. Cuz pads lose effectiveness at the same time they wear rapidly.
I noticed that the second URL had some interesting comments about big brake kits and ABS and so forth. I don't know if Stop Tech has or will have any S2K options, but it makes me wonder about any existing big brale kits out there.
Stan
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