Fed

Dave, at first, I believed it to be just that, the ABS system engaging, due to the fact that I braking on bumpy roads. However, recently, it has gotten much louder, and no longer happens on just bumpy roads. I will be taking the car in on thursday to have 3 TSBs done (top latches, clutch disk rattle, and drivers side window relay), an oil change, and fix some other things. I'll have them take a look at it then. Braking seems to be still up to par, just the fact that the noise has increased in volume and in frequency over the past 2 weeks has got me a little worried.

RT

Fed, I would get something similar at track events only (instructor was worried enough that we pulled off to see what the deal was) after 10 minutes or so at speed (heat related). Never did figure out what the true problem was but ended up solving the issue by replacing all the rotors (must be some cracks or something). The thing that sucks is the old rotors all look perfect, no visible cracks and not warped. Don't know if your situation is the same as mine. At least the rotors are cheap

Fed

RT, your rotors weren't covered under warranty?

RT

Probably would have been covered, but the heartache involved in getting the dealer to trouble-shoot a non-standard issue and the time lost fu<king around educating them isn't near worth the $250 in parts. So I just handled it myself and went on with business as usual
Now that there have been some documented occurrences, maybe it would be worth pursuing it under warranty.

Fed

Cool, thanks RT, Looks like I'll be purchasing some new rotors.

E30M3

Believe it or not, but rotors actually hardly ever warp. That's just what folks call the problem. Generally what is happening most of the time is related to pad material transfer to the disc surface. You can also develop harder parts of the disc, which will wear more slowly than other spots. Hard to explain properly in a transient message board post. But good break in procedures help tremendously. As does proper cooling. For break-in, a serious of medium and then harder (but non ABS) stops from around 60 to about 5-10 MPH is often used. More speed for track pads, follow the supplied directions in any case. Maybe 8-10 times in a row then drive at moderate speeds for about 10 minutes to cool things off and then park for about an hour. If the trouble is not too bad you can scotchbrite the discs or try another break in process.

Stan

RT

Thanks for the input Stan, the rotors I pulled off definitely were not warped but changing them fixed the problem. The thickness doesn't seem to be varying around several different locations on them either so I'm stumped as to what's wrong with them. In the mean time they're collecting dust in the garage. Maybe I better toss those bad boys in the lake before I get tempted to resurface them and reuse.

Utah S2K

While the stock brakes are excellent they are no match if you raise the horsepower of the car. As noted the pad material can and will ablate onto the disc surface (which is probably what occured on RT's car). Have you had any serious track days where the brakes were put under severe stress for an extended period of time? Are the pads stock or aftermarket? I saw a Pantera with this exact set of problems about two years ago. The owner had put in three sets of discs until the owner of a certain Pantera aftermarket shop called boo on him and measured the runout. Perfect at the edges.....high spots on the pad face. Diagnosis was wrong heat range pad material for the severe application. Please provide some more specific data on pads and track time or very heavy driving (i.e. heat cycles).....

Utah

E30M3

Check out an excellent piece written by Carroll Smith -

http://www.stoptech.com/whitepapers/warped...rotors_myth.htm

And why not review:

http://www.stoptech.com/technical/

Stan

RT

So what you're saying is that I have cementite issues?