Warped rotors
12-04-2001, 12:34 PM
#11
Registered User
Hmm, my S2k has about 7k miles on it and I think the rotors are already warped as the car shudders a little bit when depressing the pedal when braking at higher speeds (read: 70+mph). Think I'm a candidate for the beefier aftermarket rotors?
12-04-2001, 12:37 PM
#12
Community Organizer
Thread Starter
Trevor sent me a reply.
I think it was like 66~ fronts and 78~ rears? Something close to that.
I am still a little torn as what to do. New rotors or grind the originals.............I will probably grind the originals and have the shop drop on new pads at the same time.
If the tech day happens this weekend it really wont matter I can't get the rotors in time anyways!!!
Changing the oil/new diff/new tran/mugen temp reg. That should keep me pretty busy!
BTW: Anybody know what and how much of the diff and tranny fluid I need.
I think it was like 66~ fronts and 78~ rears? Something close to that.
I am still a little torn as what to do. New rotors or grind the originals.............I will probably grind the originals and have the shop drop on new pads at the same time.
If the tech day happens this weekend it really wont matter I can't get the rotors in time anyways!!!
Changing the oil/new diff/new tran/mugen temp reg. That should keep me pretty busy!
BTW: Anybody know what and how much of the diff and tranny fluid I need.
12-04-2001, 03:09 PM
#14
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Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: West Henrietta UPSTATE NY
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Please keep the following things in mind when you make your final decision.
1- always use a torque wrench to put your wheels on and always check the torque when someone else puts your wheels on because uneven torque will greatly assist in the development of a warped rotor
2- if you don't have a torque wrench, shame on you, this is one of the most important tools to have if you are going to have a sports car
3- replace the rotors period, turning rotors has always been a waste of time in my mind, consider the labor and the fact that once they are turned there is no guarantee they will be true, the thinner a rotor becomes by turning them the more likely they are to warping again in the future
4- put new pads on the new rotors, do not put used pads on a new rotor or the rotor will actually start to acquire the small imperfections from the previous rotor
5- if you have 43,000 miles on the OEM pads you do not need drilled or slotted rotors for performance reasons
And especially remember, the Brain will not take over the world on used parts!
1- always use a torque wrench to put your wheels on and always check the torque when someone else puts your wheels on because uneven torque will greatly assist in the development of a warped rotor
2- if you don't have a torque wrench, shame on you, this is one of the most important tools to have if you are going to have a sports car
3- replace the rotors period, turning rotors has always been a waste of time in my mind, consider the labor and the fact that once they are turned there is no guarantee they will be true, the thinner a rotor becomes by turning them the more likely they are to warping again in the future
4- put new pads on the new rotors, do not put used pads on a new rotor or the rotor will actually start to acquire the small imperfections from the previous rotor
5- if you have 43,000 miles on the OEM pads you do not need drilled or slotted rotors for performance reasons
And especially remember, the Brain will not take over the world on used parts!
12-04-2001, 05:47 PM
#15
Registered User
Originally posted by s2ktaxi
If you change rotors or pads, remember to break them in over a 200-300 miles first.
If you change rotors or pads, remember to break them in over a 200-300 miles first.
In the past I've read that breaking in rotors and brake pads consists of some high speed runs with HARD braking, with each braking being followed by 5 minutes or so of highway speeds with NO braking to cool off the components. Repeat several times. This sounds like a form of heat tempering to me. My question is, is this still necessary with today's pads/rotors (decent ones), or are they pre-tempered at the factory?
12-04-2001, 06:46 PM
#16
Originally posted by s2ktaxi
.................................................. ..resurfaced/machined rotors will just warp again because now you don't have uniform thickness all the way around ..........................
.................................................. ..resurfaced/machined rotors will just warp again because now you don't have uniform thickness all the way around ..........................
12-04-2001, 07:28 PM
#17
Pinky, 43,000 miles on original pads or not, all it takes is one good overheating to possibly warp your sh!t. I had about 34,000 on the stock pads and have tracked the car on several occasions. I know exactly which session on a particular day that warped 3 of my 4 corners.
What I'm getting at is don't overlook the upgrade just because you don't beat the brakes on an everyday basis, it only takes once!
BTW, I replaced mine with new stock rotors; we'll see how they hold up at Laguna
What I'm getting at is don't overlook the upgrade just because you don't beat the brakes on an everyday basis, it only takes once!
BTW, I replaced mine with new stock rotors; we'll see how they hold up at Laguna
12-04-2001, 07:58 PM
#18
Community Organizer
Thread Starter
[QUOTE]Originally posted by RT
[B]Pinky, 43,000 miles on original pads or not, all it takes is one good overheating to possibly warp your sh!t.
[B]Pinky, 43,000 miles on original pads or not, all it takes is one good overheating to possibly warp your sh!t.
12-04-2001, 08:16 PM
#19
[QUOTE]Originally posted by Pinky
[B]
Kind of a question for all but you brought up a interesting topic.........how do you know you warped 3 out of 4 rotors.......how do you "test" your rotors.
[B]
Kind of a question for all but you brought up a interesting topic.........how do you know you warped 3 out of 4 rotors.......how do you "test" your rotors.