Warped rotors
#1
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Warped rotors
Ok well I now have about 43,000 miles on my car and I can feel my rotors are warped. I am still on my original pads from the factory. What can I say my foot is to the floor all the time who needs brakes?!? Isn't the point to go fast?
Well my question is what should I do. Get the rotors on a machine to make them flat or should I just drop on fresh rotors. I was told to get new rotors because shaving will make them thinner and more prone to warp again! I was looking to get a concensus from the board.
Then what do I replace them with if I do replace? Stock or slotted that will depend on $$$ mostly. Then do I just do the fronts which are probably the warped ones and leave the rears. If I do slotted fronts is it gonna look wierd having slotted fronts and stock rears?
Thanks in advance
Well my question is what should I do. Get the rotors on a machine to make them flat or should I just drop on fresh rotors. I was told to get new rotors because shaving will make them thinner and more prone to warp again! I was looking to get a concensus from the board.
Then what do I replace them with if I do replace? Stock or slotted that will depend on $$$ mostly. Then do I just do the fronts which are probably the warped ones and leave the rears. If I do slotted fronts is it gonna look wierd having slotted fronts and stock rears?
Thanks in advance
#2
I would not be so sure it is the rotors.. after 43K the pads are probably shot and contributing to the feel. The stock rotors can be turned once at a very low cost and installing new pads on the fresh surface will probably solve your problem.
#3
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As long as the shaving does not exceed the manufacturer's minimum thickness limits you should be all right. The only concern I would have is that if you decide to have the rear rotors shaved they should be removed from the car before the shaving (because of the Torsen differential).
As for cross drilled or slotted rotors, my instinct tells me that there is an increased risk of cracking, warping and pad wear with them. IMHO, their real advantage is only to those who use their S2000s on the track (where increased heat disappation is more important than on the street). Then again, those slotted rotors do look sooooo nice
As for cross drilled or slotted rotors, my instinct tells me that there is an increased risk of cracking, warping and pad wear with them. IMHO, their real advantage is only to those who use their S2000s on the track (where increased heat disappation is more important than on the street). Then again, those slotted rotors do look sooooo nice
#4
I think Chris is right on here... New factory pads and a turn on the existing stock rotors...
If you're getting 40K+ miles on a set of pads, you certainly don't need any of the performance, cooling or longevity advantage that treated/slotted/drilled rotors might give you... Potential cosmetic advantage only!
If you're getting 40K+ miles on a set of pads, you certainly don't need any of the performance, cooling or longevity advantage that treated/slotted/drilled rotors might give you... Potential cosmetic advantage only!
#5
Registered User
Hey, I go more than slow too, 38,000 and the pads still look pretty good.
When I slow from say . . .140MPH not hard braking mind you, but a tap here and there
then finally get to about 40mph and then push hard on them I can feel a shudder
but its temporary, as if its because they are hot, give them half an hour and they
seem ok again.
These rotors are easy enough to remove from the car so turning them shouldnt
be needed on the car and should be cheap. Just compare the prices Pinky!
or even consider a brake upgrade . . .
When I slow from say . . .140MPH not hard braking mind you, but a tap here and there
then finally get to about 40mph and then push hard on them I can feel a shudder
but its temporary, as if its because they are hot, give them half an hour and they
seem ok again.
These rotors are easy enough to remove from the car so turning them shouldnt
be needed on the car and should be cheap. Just compare the prices Pinky!
or even consider a brake upgrade . . .
#6
Go with new rotors - depending on how hard you drive the car, resurfaced/machined rotors will just warp again because now you don't have uniform thickness all the way around and the expansion/contraction rates will be different causing further warping. If you change rotors or pads, remember to break them in over a 200-300 miles first.
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#8
Registered User
33k miles, on my fourth set of pads, and I warped the rotors a few months ago. Got them turned, did a few track events since, and haven't had any problems. I agree with the pads+turn approach.