Wandering clutch engagement point
#1
Wandering clutch engagement point
My clutch lives a life of its own.
On one day, the clutch starts engaging after 1/3 of pedal travel. On another day, nothing happens for 2/3. Next day 1/3 again. Hard to say if there are any contributing factors, but it seems that the point is higher when car sits for a longer period of time.
No visible leak from master cylinder, no visible leak from slave, fluid level doesn't change. Pedal play adjusted, the nut isn't loose. Fluid replaced using gravity method, nothing changed.
What to do next?
On one day, the clutch starts engaging after 1/3 of pedal travel. On another day, nothing happens for 2/3. Next day 1/3 again. Hard to say if there are any contributing factors, but it seems that the point is higher when car sits for a longer period of time.
No visible leak from master cylinder, no visible leak from slave, fluid level doesn't change. Pedal play adjusted, the nut isn't loose. Fluid replaced using gravity method, nothing changed.
What to do next?
#3
I'd try bleeding the system of air again. Make sure the shift fork/rod is in good standing too.
If you take your car to redline (or close) and try to shift, what happens to the clutch afterwards? If you lose pressure in the peddle then it probably needs to be bled.
That's my best guess at least for now.
If you take your car to redline (or close) and try to shift, what happens to the clutch afterwards? If you lose pressure in the peddle then it probably needs to be bled.
That's my best guess at least for now.
#5
I am thinking like others in this thread, you still have air in the lines. When that air is well compressed, different pedal travel then when its not.
Sent from my SM-G920P using IB AutoGroup
Sent from my SM-G920P using IB AutoGroup
#6
Thanks for ideas guys, will change the fluid and bleed tomorrow.
Should I use this opportunity to regrease the clutch slave cylinder rod and the release fork, even if I did it just two years ago? Or would it be just a waste of time to do it so often?
Non-US AP2 with F20C.
Good point, but no.
Should I use this opportunity to regrease the clutch slave cylinder rod and the release fork, even if I did it just two years ago? Or would it be just a waste of time to do it so often?
Non-US AP2 with F20C.
Good point, but no.
#7
Just make sure you're using the correct fluid and take your time with the bleed. I know I had to bleed my system for air a few times after changing out my clutch, just took a few cycles to get all the pockets out.
Trending Topics
#8
So, no signs of improvement after fluid change and bleeding. It even got worse a little bit, but it can be explained by disturbing the slave cylinder which I removed for regreasing the rod and the fork.
What to do next? Are S2000 clutch cylinders suspectible to internal leaks? Is it usually master or slave? How to test for it?
Did it as you said. Old fluild was normal DOT4, the new one is blue DOT4, so it was easy to see as the blue fluid started coming out. After that, I let it flow for some minutes more, constantly filling up the reservoir.
What to do next? Are S2000 clutch cylinders suspectible to internal leaks? Is it usually master or slave? How to test for it?
Did it as you said. Old fluild was normal DOT4, the new one is blue DOT4, so it was easy to see as the blue fluid started coming out. After that, I let it flow for some minutes more, constantly filling up the reservoir.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
notaloafer
S2000 Under The Hood
8
03-26-2014 05:47 PM