VTEC sputtering/quits after 2-6 hits
08-28-2013, 11:22 AM
#11
I saw a mention of you replacing he vtec unit, but what about the pressure sensor? Its mounted to the block under the vtec unit and has a single wire running to it which splits off the other vtec connections from the main unit, just fyi if you didn't know.
08-28-2013, 01:53 PM
#12
Moderator
That pressure sensor is a switch for the light, that's it.
The pressure sensor is in the VTEC valve itself.
Any engine work done? Possible missing VTEC pin?
edit: sorry I just read you had a rebuild. I'd bet you have a pressure loss in the top end somewhere.
Drill and tap the TCT cap, and measure the oil pressure right there. Check the pressure when vtec works, and when it doesn't.
Use 1/8 pipe thread. When done you can plug it with a pipe plug with Teflon tape, or I'll mail ya a cap.
The pressure sensor is in the VTEC valve itself.
Any engine work done? Possible missing VTEC pin?
edit: sorry I just read you had a rebuild. I'd bet you have a pressure loss in the top end somewhere.
Drill and tap the TCT cap, and measure the oil pressure right there. Check the pressure when vtec works, and when it doesn't.
Use 1/8 pipe thread. When done you can plug it with a pipe plug with Teflon tape, or I'll mail ya a cap.
08-28-2013, 02:08 PM
#13
Check the knock sensor. The sensor plastic body can break away from the metal base.
I had similar problems and it ended up being the VTEC transistor on the ECU circuit board had brittle fatigue in the transistor legs where they met the circuit board. This was in a race car with lots more vibration than a road car.
If the problem only surfaced with engine work I would be looking at the engine first.
I had similar problems and it ended up being the VTEC transistor on the ECU circuit board had brittle fatigue in the transistor legs where they met the circuit board. This was in a race car with lots more vibration than a road car.
If the problem only surfaced with engine work I would be looking at the engine first.
08-28-2013, 04:25 PM
#14
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not a guru, so forgive the lack of terms, but i had a similar experience with vtec problems, except mine wasn't sputtering. i think billman's suggestion was in line with what i'm thinking. i had some new retainers, springs and keepers installed and the tech didn't correctly torque down 1, maybe 2 of the brackets that hold the cams in place and the oil was squirting out of the sides instead of engaging the vtec pin. might wanna check the torque on those if you have the v-cover off.
as far as your tct, i sandblasted mine too. it lasted for about 2 months, but then started making noise almost all the time. it would make the "tct" noise at start up and while driving, or if i'd take my foot off the gas momentarily while driving. i replaced it with one of billman's and it's been great since. a lot of the noise that i brushed off as valve train noise was actually from my tct too. motor is quiet as a sewing machine now.
as far as your tct, i sandblasted mine too. it lasted for about 2 months, but then started making noise almost all the time. it would make the "tct" noise at start up and while driving, or if i'd take my foot off the gas momentarily while driving. i replaced it with one of billman's and it's been great since. a lot of the noise that i brushed off as valve train noise was actually from my tct too. motor is quiet as a sewing machine now.
08-28-2013, 05:31 PM
#15
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Did you reuse your oil heat exchanger in the rebuild?
Bearing material is generally non-ferrous metal, so a magnet won't do anything. They also generally do not take out the oil pump if caught quick enough because it is much softer metal. Measuring clearances after cleaning off bearing material will show you how healthy the pump is.
Bearing material is generally non-ferrous metal, so a magnet won't do anything. They also generally do not take out the oil pump if caught quick enough because it is much softer metal. Measuring clearances after cleaning off bearing material will show you how healthy the pump is.
I don't disagree with your point about magnets and bearing material, but the fact is it did catch several chunks of bearing material and alerted me to a failure before it went catastrophic. The bearings are steel, coated with brass or copper, so parts of them are magnetic and will collect on a magnetic oil drain plug. I stand behind my suggestion to upgrade to this part...it's only a few bucks on ebay and could save you tons of money and headache.
08-28-2013, 05:58 PM
#16
08-28-2013, 06:17 PM
#17
Originally Posted by Billman250' timestamp='1377726808' post='22750115
That pressure sensor is a switch for the light, that's it.
The pressure sensor is in the VTEC valve itself.
The pressure sensor is in the VTEC valve itself.
Nope... it's strictly there for the dummy light only.
08-28-2013, 06:21 PM
#18
Originally Posted by s2000Junky' timestamp='1377741527' post='22750530
[quote name='Billman250' timestamp='1377726808' post='22750115']
That pressure sensor is a switch for the light, that's it.
The pressure sensor is in the VTEC valve itself.
That pressure sensor is a switch for the light, that's it.
The pressure sensor is in the VTEC valve itself.
Nope... it's strictly there for the dummy light only.
[/quote]
Ok good to know. I did end up replacing the pressure sensor and the rest of the vtec solenoid in different stages with spares I had from other motors, so probably one of these was the fix.
08-29-2013, 03:56 AM
#19
Moderator
I was actually off on my wording...it is a SWITCH, not a sensor.
Sensors typically take a reading, and return that information to an ecu.
That switch just grounds that single wire, activating the light.
Sensors typically take a reading, and return that information to an ecu.
That switch just grounds that single wire, activating the light.
09-17-2013, 04:07 PM
#20
Soooo, Darryl, did you find the problem yet? Saw you driving the car last week Thursday in Robbinsville after the rain quit. Sorry you didn't make it up to Fontana this past weekend. 