vtec control?????????
12-21-2003, 06:43 PM
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vtec control?????????
Now i don't know if this is a dumb question or not. I know that they make the v-afc which controls air/fuel. Also vtec timing. Would it be better to bring the vtec point down from 6k to maybe 5.5 or even 5. I know with some hondas it is 5 and others 4.5. Just wondering?
12-21-2003, 07:54 PM
#2
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the V-AFC2 controls timing I believe..........though proper knowlege is required to tune...........as for lowering VTEC point. Well if your stock........5,800 or 5,700 is about the lowest I am willing to go. Much lower and your hurting yourself.
Well if your stock........5,800 or 5,700 is about the lowest I am willing to go. Much lower and your hurting yourself.
12-22-2003, 06:04 PM
#4
Originally posted by Pinky
the V-AFC2 controls timing I believe..........
the V-AFC2 controls timing I believe..........
12-22-2003, 06:06 PM
#5
You don't just decide on a VTEC point, you tune and see where it is best set.
Mine is currently at 4400!
That's with Comptech SC, 8lbs of boost, E-manage, 440cc injectors, enlarged throttle body and SARD FPR. Good for 214Kw at the wheels.
Mine is currently at 4400!
That's with Comptech SC, 8lbs of boost, E-manage, 440cc injectors, enlarged throttle body and SARD FPR. Good for 214Kw at the wheels.
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12-27-2003, 07:31 PM
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MTM,
I don't know how to get your computer to change it. Frankly, I couldn't figure out how to even get my motor (bought from a wrecking yard to put into my race car) to even start, so I threw all the electronics away and now run an Electromotive TEC III. For the V-TEC I use a toggle switch to feed the solenoid 12 volts. I just pull off the line, flip the switch part way through first gear, and then leave it there for the entire run.
Now the motor rarely gets below 6000 rpm during a pass, but we did make one dyno pull from 2000 with the V-TEC on and it really beat the crap out of the car until right about 3800. Then the sucker just took off, kind of like a "pipey", 2 stroke, motocross bike.
Based on that it would seem you could drop it to 4000 and still be "okay", but for the street I think it would be more trouble than you'd like. Probably better to stick with 5000 or so, but then I don't drive my car on the street so have no "real world" experience.
All the best,
Jim
I don't know how to get your computer to change it. Frankly, I couldn't figure out how to even get my motor (bought from a wrecking yard to put into my race car) to even start, so I threw all the electronics away and now run an Electromotive TEC III. For the V-TEC I use a toggle switch to feed the solenoid 12 volts. I just pull off the line, flip the switch part way through first gear, and then leave it there for the entire run.
Now the motor rarely gets below 6000 rpm during a pass, but we did make one dyno pull from 2000 with the V-TEC on and it really beat the crap out of the car until right about 3800. Then the sucker just took off, kind of like a "pipey", 2 stroke, motocross bike.
Based on that it would seem you could drop it to 4000 and still be "okay", but for the street I think it would be more trouble than you'd like. Probably better to stick with 5000 or so, but then I don't drive my car on the street so have no "real world" experience.
All the best,
Jim
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