VSA,Caution, and E-Brake light on. *Pic*
#11
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Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Parker, Texas
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Well I havnt checked the brake fluid yet but I was wondering What fluid to use to fill it.
I have an aftermarket warranty on my S that came with it at this dealership. Hopefully It is still under warranty if it is faulty electronics.
If the brake fluid doesnt fix it I guess I need to contact the warranty place.
Thanks for the help guys
-Parker
I have an aftermarket warranty on my S that came with it at this dealership. Hopefully It is still under warranty if it is faulty electronics.
If the brake fluid doesnt fix it I guess I need to contact the warranty place.
Thanks for the help guys
-Parker
#16
Sorry to bring this back up from the dead, but i had the EXACT same problem. VSA/Brake/! all stayed on. I filled up brake fluid and it it away right when I started it up!!!!
This has been killing me for the longest time, my battery was going out, so bought a new one and it didn't help with the lights, I was so frustrated, searched this thread and fixed it at 2am in the morning. Gotta love it.
This has been killing me for the longest time, my battery was going out, so bought a new one and it didn't help with the lights, I was so frustrated, searched this thread and fixed it at 2am in the morning. Gotta love it.
#17
Registered User
Old thread but for clarification that's not the "caution" light. It's the VSA activation indicator. See page 45:
http://techinfo.honda.com/rjanisis/p.../AS20808OM.pdf
http://techinfo.honda.com/rjanisis/p.../AS20808OM.pdf
#18
Moderator
If the ECU sees the brake warning light (red) the other systems will default to inactive and set the other system lights.
Basically, its the chicken and the egg syndrome. In this case, the red brake light is first.
Red brake light can ONLY COME ON IF:
park brake is on.
park brake switch is faulty, and car THINKS it's on.
fluid is low in master.
master float is stuck and the car THINKS fluid is low.
system has a pressure differential failure detected by the prop valve.
since the ecu does not know which of the 3 it is, its shuts down the other systems. because they cannot work properly if the brake system is faulted.
SO...always start with the red brake light, ingnore all others. 95% chance your fluid is low. 4% chance your float is stuck. 1% on the rest.
Basically, its the chicken and the egg syndrome. In this case, the red brake light is first.
Red brake light can ONLY COME ON IF:
park brake is on.
park brake switch is faulty, and car THINKS it's on.
fluid is low in master.
master float is stuck and the car THINKS fluid is low.
system has a pressure differential failure detected by the prop valve.
since the ecu does not know which of the 3 it is, its shuts down the other systems. because they cannot work properly if the brake system is faulted.
SO...always start with the red brake light, ingnore all others. 95% chance your fluid is low. 4% chance your float is stuck. 1% on the rest.
#19
Registered User
i'm getting this always during drift sessions - i start with VSA OFF (of course) and then after some time breake warning lights up.
after engine turn off, on, few meters of normal driving in forward direction all lights go OFF.
after engine turn off, on, few meters of normal driving in forward direction all lights go OFF.
#20
*BUMP* LOL!
On a more serious note, I found this thread as my 06 is doing the same thing. However the caveat is it only does it in the morning when it is cold outside, 45 - 55 degrees(Sorry guys I live in San Diego, this is cold to me, LOL!) After I get up to operating temp and run the car for about 10 - 15 if I park it, shut it off and let it sit for a second or two, when I start it back up the lights are gone, and stay gone, until the next morning of course. Anyways, just my 2 cents, I'm going to try the suggestions from the rest of the thread and see if it corrects the issue.
On a more serious note, I found this thread as my 06 is doing the same thing. However the caveat is it only does it in the morning when it is cold outside, 45 - 55 degrees(Sorry guys I live in San Diego, this is cold to me, LOL!) After I get up to operating temp and run the car for about 10 - 15 if I park it, shut it off and let it sit for a second or two, when I start it back up the lights are gone, and stay gone, until the next morning of course. Anyways, just my 2 cents, I'm going to try the suggestions from the rest of the thread and see if it corrects the issue.