nureulwihaesuh

Hey guys, i just bought an s2k not long ago which had almost 100k miles. I finally got it legal to drive on the road by registering it and insuring it.
While the car was stored for a week, then i finally got it to the freeway and did 65mph and up. during that time, theres a humming sound coming from tranny, and after I got home, i sat in the car with engine running and thinking what could be wrong with it. Then i heard that in idling, it sounds a lil too loud for a stock s2k also, (this is my 2nd s2000). so i pressed in the clutch. the humming noise was gone. so my conclusion was that this humming sound is constantly there, but just getting louder as speed goes up i guess.
also, humming noise= medium metal rotating on metal noise. I dunno it's very hard to explain
now, i know that this is either tranny or clutch. or both.
what is wrong with my car guys? anyone know?
any help would be appreciated.
thanks
John.


EDIT: Problem solved! omg I feel stupid, but it was that front mudguard plastic piece missing a clip and it was hitting the car under viberation.
thanks guys! I learned my lesson not to be paranoid in everything lol.

xviper

From the static test you did, it sounds like it could be the throw out bearing. If you go out on the highway and once you get up to speed, push in the clutch and you can duplicate this, then it's even more likely it's the TO bearing. If the noise stays with the clutch in and you are moving, then there's something inside the tranny that's gone.

vteconly

I have the same problem and it is making my driving experience real pain. The rattling noise goes away once the clutch is pressed. So, xviper, what would need to be done if it IS the TO bearing??? Will changing the entire clutch assembly cure the problem???

nureulwihaesuh

yes, help me out on that xviper the famous Tech on s2ki! lol.

also, about notchyness in all gears, i heard it might be because of adjustment height of the pedal. can you tell me how to adjust the pedal's play space/engagement point?

xviper

Please keep in mind that my diagnosis is based purely on what you've posted. You really need someone "hands on" (and ears on) to make a definitive conclusion.
"IF" it's the T.O. bearing, you need to basically do a "clutch job". This generally involves putting in a new T.O. bearing and liberally greasing the input shaft on which it rides. To do a clutch job requires lowering the engine and pulling off the transmission. At that point, the clutch disc, pressure plate, T.O. bearing can be replaced and the flywheel inspected and machined if possible, replaced if not.

"Notchiness" and a tendency to grind in the tranny can be caused by many things. Some of which involves worn syncros, bad clutch fluid or poor pedal adjustment. Start with the easy stuff first. Change and flush out the clutch fluid, then check to make sure that the clutch friction point is in the proper place. The first inch or so at each end of the pedal travel should be "free play". Here is a thread telling how to do the adjustment.
WARNING: It is not something you want to mess with unless you are sure that the fluid is good and all other clutch components are in good condition.
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?showt...0&#entry5234269


Please NOTE: A "rattling" sound is NOT like the "humming" sound as describe by the original poster. Don't assume it is the same problem and apply the same fix. A rattling noise is more akin to the infamous clutch disc deceleration "buzz".

nureulwihaesuh

xviper, how much would honda usually charge for fixing the throwout bearing? also, if the bottom end(short blocks and etc) are replaced, did they have to play with the throwout bearing? I am asking, because my car was blown up by previous owner, and he replcaed the whole bottom end.
I am asking this because if they had to mess around with it, then It should be covered by them for 12mos warranty work they do.

the clutch was also replaced by same honda dealer 15k miles ago, and fluid seems all clear.

well, let me know.
thanks
John.

xviper

It's a one day job to do a clutch job. Changing a T.O. bearing is the same work as doing a clutch job. If they replaced the short block, then the tranny had to be removed and the clutch assembly unbolted from the back of the engine. This doesn't mean they necessarily replaced any clutch parts. They have very well used the same parts. You'd have to investigate this.

nureulwihaesuh

thank you very much for the info! Here's the situation. I live about 3hrs away from the honda dealer that did all the work since i bought the car from out of state from where i am at. will they still cover the warranty work they did on bottom end or no? if not, my best bet is to just call up the dude who sold me the car to come up there with me and back it up.
also the car still has 850 miles left on honda care 100k miles warranty. I really would hope that they would fix everything they screwed up and etc. do you think that will happen?
if I am in need of a whole clutch system, would the Honda care warranty cover this if they don't find out that I am the new owner?
and lastly, if the clutch was replaced, does honda usually adjust the pedal also or that is not done? if not, then i doubt that it's the adjustment of the pedal.
I just wanna be prepared before i go up there tomorrow, since if i drive there, i will be like 300miles before 100k mile hits, and i have no warranty at all.
thanks xviper!
let me know.
John.

xviper

Honoring work that was done on warranty for a subsequent owner will be up to the discretion of the dealer who did the work. However, unless you can prove that the short block replacement work was the cause of the clutch going bad, it is not likely they will do anything about it. Clutch work is usually considered a repair due to wear. Wear items are not normally covered, especially under an extended warranty. But don't quote me. You will have to find out for yourself.
Pedal adjustment is not normally part of a clutch job, nor is a fluid flush.

ps. You still have to confirm what it is exactly is causing your noise.

Ch0pper

I'll agree, sounds like the T.O Bearing. I have an INtegra GSR with an engine swap because previous owner blew up the original. I have an issue with my T.O. bearing also, and same test, press in clutch noise goes away, let it out, noise returns.
Mine is only noticable with my A/C system, makes a ticking like noise, but press in clucth, all goes away.
Good luck with the fix.