S2Kite

i've been searching for two days to find the solution to this problem but i am stumped

recently my master cylinder sprang a leak, so i ordered the 96 prelude rebuild kit that other's have used to rebuild their s2000's cmc and it works great. My slave cylinder is also new and was replaced about 3-4 months ago, i've greased the fork inside the tranny with high temp grease also

so here is the problem;

when i first bleed the clutch, it feels perfect, there is the 2 stages of play (as stated by Billman in another thread - the clutch pedal itself very small play and then the CMC play which is also minimal, the car drove great for the first day, but the second day my clutch pedal got Very stiff, where the CMC play was completely gone, and my clutch would slip when vtec engaged. The clutch did not slip at all before the pedal got extremely stiff. i have also tried to ajust the rod behind the clutch pedal - anyway that i adjust it though the clutch would engage almost at the very top when fully released

it seems almost as if the clutch is not fulling disengaging when i release the pedal and is causing the slip, which would also explain the pedal being oversly stiff

i'm going to try and re-bleed it again to see if it changes but does anyone have any other ideas? thanks in advance!

also my car is a 2002 so it doesn't have the delay the ap2's have when shifting at high rpm's

iamxpl

there was also another thread very much like your symptom. the OP ended up getting a new throw out bearing guide since it had been severely worn out due to lack of greasing.

check these 3 threads if you havent already seen them. in order that fits your symptom i guess.

https://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/895...king-resolved/

https://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/441...m/page__st__25

Billman250

Your clutch rod adjustment is off, guaranteed.

S2Kite

thanks for the threads, i did read through them but mine seems just a bit different

i've tried re-adjusting it billman but no luck, i'll pm you more in-dept about it



i did re-bleed my clutch yesterday and put back in my oem slave cylinder to test if the aftermarket one was bad, for the first 20 minutes of driving the clutch pedal had the 2 stages of play but after that the CMC play went away and clutch is stiff as hell again, but so far no slipping (when i say stiff i mean it kicks back out very hard, and i can't push the clutch down with my finger to feel the CMC play - there is no play whatsoever once clutch touches CMC rod)

S2Kite

test drove the car again

the more i drive the further to the top the engagement point seems to move, i can press 1" down on my clutch pedal it seems and put my car into gear, it also started to slip again when driving.

so something is causing my engagement point to move so far up towards the top of releasing the pedal that it seems the clutch is not allowed to fully engage which is causing the slip

S2Kite

So i tried to adjust the clutch rod some and that didnt work, the cmc rod was stiffer than a pornstar on viagra, but i think i did find the solution

I probably screwed something up in the CMC when i took it apart to rebuild it, i had this crazy idea of introducing an air bubble into the line to take away some of the stiffness of the pedal since i suspected the CMC as the culprit

I loosened the clutch line that runs into the cmc just enough for air tp escaped, pumped the clutch a bit till fluid leaked out and air got in, re-tightened it and added more fluid on top

Clutch has regained the cmc play it shouldve had and i redlined car from gears 1 - 4 with absolutely no clutch slip

This was to only narrow down the culprit and im 95% sure its CMC, ive ordered a brand new cmc and will post final results once it comes in

chris_barry

Something is positioning the lip of the master cylinder seal so its covering the small drilled port to the reservoir. Did you swap around or turn over the washer that holds the pushrod in place? Some of them are slightly dish shaped. If you put it the wrong way around it will hold the pistons slightly pushed in.

I blueprint master cylinders for race car applications. To do this I replace the washer that holds the piston in with a thicker unit. I then surface grind this thinner and thinner till you can just start to blow air back into the reservoir. I then take another 0.005" off the washer to allow for any growth of the seal once its soaked in fluid.

You may find the prelude seals are slightly different dimensionally to the S2000 ones. To fix this you may be able to fit a thinner washer over the pushrod.

iamxpl

just an FYI its easy to just gravity bleed the clutch line. to billman for that procedure. easiest and surest way to bleed brakes and clutch for me. especially as a one man operation.

S2Kite

so my master came in and i installed it, voila problem is solved, so the prelude kit was the culprit in the end, i probably should have used the gaskets only instead of shoving the entire unit im there lol, live and learn right. Thanks for the help guys!

iamxpl

glad you got it resolved.