VERY late clutch engagement point
#1
VERY late clutch engagement point
I recently swapped out my clutch, and the new one has 500 miles or so on it. From the get-go, my clutch engagement point has been extremely high, to the point of it being almost un-driveable.
I've bled the slave cylinder multiple times, and am sure that it doesn't have any leaks.
Could it be the flywheel? I had to get it resurfaced, and I remember them taking off quite a bit of material. The Master and Slave cylinders are both good, and the fork is seated properly. It is the only thing I can really think of.
I've bled the slave cylinder multiple times, and am sure that it doesn't have any leaks.
Could it be the flywheel? I had to get it resurfaced, and I remember them taking off quite a bit of material. The Master and Slave cylinders are both good, and the fork is seated properly. It is the only thing I can really think of.
#7
bump for which clutch did you get?
also, yeah, if they took a lot of material off the flywheel, i would think that could produce the symptoms you have as well. hopefully a qualified shop wouldn't have re-used a flywheel that should have been replaced though...
also, yeah, if they took a lot of material off the flywheel, i would think that could produce the symptoms you have as well. hopefully a qualified shop wouldn't have re-used a flywheel that should have been replaced though...
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#10
You can adjust the clutch master cylinder rod to shorten or lengthen the engagement point. I just adjusted mine and my cousin's clutch this weekend. Now it engages just where I want it.
If you get in the driver's side floorboard you'll see a rod that is attached to the clutch that goes into the firewall. That is what needs to be adjusted. You'll need to have it screw in further to the pedal (away from the firewall) to shorten the engagement point. Don't do it too much otherwise you might not be able to fully disengage the clutch.
If you get in the driver's side floorboard you'll see a rod that is attached to the clutch that goes into the firewall. That is what needs to be adjusted. You'll need to have it screw in further to the pedal (away from the firewall) to shorten the engagement point. Don't do it too much otherwise you might not be able to fully disengage the clutch.