beroznikmal

wow... I am offended cause you have personally insulted me... so I say go F off.... I am entitled to provide OR NOT whatever I like......

If what I say sounds like a load of BS then just put me on your ignore list......
now stop denying to yourself you made a bad investment and move on.....

For me this thread sucks just like the cams do.... Did you relieve this thread for a specific reason or are you light a fat b@#%h that likes to yap about nothing?????
Beroz

mxt_77

You're right.. you are entitled to provide or not provide whatever information you choose. But, maybe my expectations from people are too high, since I would expect that you would share any information that might help someone else. I know that I have always made an effort to share everything that I have learned regarding my cams (both good and bad information), in case it is useful to others.

I'm not denying that I may have made a bad investment. It's a risk one takes when buying a go-fast part that no one seems to have any facts on. However, I do know that the first set of cams that I had did make power. I'm simply trying to get to the bottom of why the second set does not. By nature, I like to troubleshoot things if I believe they are not working as they should (that's what I do for a living). So, that's why I continue to pursue these cams. I could do like you (and many others) have done, and just scrap them or try to sell them or give up... but I choose not to (at least not yet).

The reason that I revived this thread is because I just recently found that the cams are not making the power that they should be. I'm trying to get additional information and hopefully insight as to the possible cause for this.

I simply don't need someone coming in here and claiming "Toda cams suck", without providing any additional information. It's just not useful. If you want to be helpful, you could've backed up your claims with some factual information.

If you're personally offended, I apologize. I was simply trying to point out that you have not offered any useful information in this thread. If you have something useful to offer, I would really like to hear it and see the factual basis for it. It sounds like you have a lot of additional information to offer... but for whatever reason, you're not sharing with the rest of the world. If you want to share, I would appreciate it. Otherwise, I could live without your color commentary.

mxt_77

Brian-

I'm interested to hear more about this. When you say that the failed cam was 5 thou out of true, what does that mean? Does that mean that the lobes are out of alignment (i.e., it would be slightly advanced/retarded), or does that meant that the camshaft is warped and not perfectly straight? If it's just warped, I don't know if that would have much impact on its performance, simply because the journals would probably "straighten it back out" once they were torqued down.

As this is with regard to the original (Parkerized version) cam, I don't think that it would help my current plight much, but I'm curious to hear more about it.

Turtle

Warped as in out of true - not the lobes. I'm not convinced the ladder would straighten the cam when torqued. Whether it's significant or not, who knows. Just figured it was worth mentioning as a peice of info for the people genuinely interested in the cams.

As to your current problem... how much info from the stock ECU have you logged during the dyno runs? I wonder if it's not the stock ECU being confused. (Not 100% sure you're still running the stock ECU - only going off memory). I don't think anyone in the UK has run the A2's with the stock ECU - and I can't remember any reports of a performance loss. Migth be related, might be just the handful of people with them aren't aware of the exact performance change.

-Brian.