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Valve Retainer with Head in Place DIY: Revisited.

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Old 01-21-2018, 10:29 AM
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Originally Posted by twohoos
A major revision?! How dare you, sir - I demand this thread be deleted and this user banned!
j/k of course

Nice write up. Sorry you had so much trouble with that spring tool. Actually I'm a little surprised you even tried it -- there are a ton of comments in the other thread with suggestions for better tools. (BTW, for the record, I never actually *recommended* that tool, I just knew it was a commonly available one and shared how I got it to work for this job.)

On the compressed air, I'm not sure it's right to say it's "a must" - the old thread also has a lot of suggestions for those who don't have compressors.

I do think it's important for people to know that the benefits of doing the exhaust side are only theoretical, but the risks are very real. As The Man himself said:

Even the install adds some risk: doing the exhaust side doubles the chances that you'll lose a cotter in the motor somewhere, or have some other misadventure.
I was hoping you'd chime in =D. Your thread was essential in me even knowing where to start!. Between your how-to, Billman recommending the tool (in some thread, somewhere, some time), and myself having one around, I was for sure going to try that tool. Hats off to you for getting it to work for you.

For the debate on the AP2 retainers, the three tidbits of information that pushed me over to using AP2 retainers on the exhaust side were:
  1. Honda switched to using the AP2 retainers on the F20C which was sold outside of North America until the end of its production run. If Honda spec'd the AP2 retainers all around for the F20C, why wouldn't we follow their recommendation?
  2. Has the valve float damage theory been proven on an F20C engine with AP2 exhaust retainers? I can't say I've found any hard evidence of it. If there is, I'd love to see it.
  3. A comment by S2oooNvegas seems to have been lost amongst S2ki, but his comments hold a lot of weight. He seems to have a lot of experience working on S2000 engines, and has found many cases of cracked exhaust valve retainers.

    (S2oooNvegas wrote...)
    Ill start by saying if you havent heard of baker cylinder heads, they have many record holding engines around the globe. They have had and still have many record setting hondas doing what they do best in many different racing events. Steve the owner is a good friend of mine and does all my head work. And i mean he does it ALL. From lambos, to helicopters, to boats you wouldnt believe the stuff that other head shops send to him because they are scared of it.Im telling this because this is the guy who i ask for his opinion on anything i do that i am personally second guessing, and thats not much. And while i am not omnipotent, i rarely back down to anyone elses opinion. Cause most are full of it. Billman on the other hand has been on these forums as long or longer than myself, and has an equal/similar reputation of building s2000s. Im not him and hes not me, so of course we may disagree a bit and without being there first hand i dont know how many or how bad ass of s2k's hes built.
    But i do know what i have done and seen.
    Steve has measured and weighed every set of everything that i give him, thats just how thorough he is. There is nearly no difference in the ap2 retainer weight and the ap1 retainer weight. Now i will say i did not weigh them myself, so i cant quote exact numbers. But for steve to tell me that there is no issue at all running ap2 retainers to as high of rpm as i want, im gonna go with what he says. he builds heads for 100k dollar engines. Now the springs may not have enough pressure to NOT float up past 10k rpm, but thats not the point. A stock engine is just that, and wont ever hit that unless over revved. If you mechanically over rev it thats your fault anyways and you should expect damage.
    To NOT replace exhaust retainers because you think that that is going to help keep from valves contacting on a mis shift, is splitting hairs.
    Its not even good business in my opinion.
    I back that up by the fact that the last 3 ap1 heads i have had apart, had wasted valve guides and the retainers were almost all micro cracked. ALL. the exhaust being the worst of the bunch due to the fact that the exhaust valves and retainers run near double the temp of the intake side.
    I dont ever think to report this info because... what happens and will probably happen here.... a pissing match will begin.
    I personally wanted to make sure i came in and passed this info around so that it can help others who may be in this similar situation.
    Its my understanding that many other retainers sold for the s2k weigh as much or more than stock ones. So again... we are talking about micrograms here.
    Every set i have replaced so far, whether its in the car or the head has had to be off due to bad guides.... has gotten ap2 retainers on intake an exhaust. Thats my way of doing it, with the blessing of the machinist doing the work.

    So.... i dont really care who anyone "thinks is right".. this is the way i will always do it because its the safest way.
    If the person mis shifts and lunches a motor.... its not gonna be the fact that the exhaust retainers weighed .0000000009 micrograms more than the originals.... trust me.

    And again.... seeing the majority of the ap1 retainers cracked NOT enough to even notice a drop, but noticeable under magnification... is enough for me to condemn the part as the problem.

    So anyways, if youve read my long winded reply thanks. I do enjoy thorough explanations. Bottom line is.... i personally wouldnt trust 100k mile ap1 exhaust retainers in my engine spinning 9k.
    If its apart that far, replace them all.
    If you think that having an extra 100 rpm before the valves contact is gonna save your life... then go ahead and replace the exhaust retainers with ap1 ones again.
    I personally will keep on putting ap2 retainers on all the valves.

    Dave
  4. Billman himself documented a cracked OEM exhaust retainer, as well as another user (92gli) that had work performed on his car by Billman. This alone would scare me enough to replace all the retainers and proves that exhaust retainers cracking is not just a theory...they do indeed crack. Yes, Billman replaced them with F20C retainers, but I revert back to point #1, #2, and #3 for replacing it with AP2 parts:

    (92gli wrote...)
    Here's the wizard doing mine yesterday. 6 out of 8 intake retainers had obvious cracks. One of them had cracks all the way to the thin part on the edge.

    Once that was done Bill noticed one of the exhaust ones looked a little off. So he changed those too and three of the eight were cracked. Apparently my car was only the second one he's seen with cracked retainers on the exhaust valves. I really wish my car could talk, lol. There was evidence that the head was off the motor at some point. Our theory is that there was a major over rev years ago, bent exhaust valves were replaced but the morons who did the work didn't replace any of the retainers. Anyway, now she's running great and up to the task of 9k shifts without any worries.
    (Billman wrote...)
    Ok...2002, about 50k, 2nd owner.

    Damage list:

    -8 broken Intake retianers
    -1 broken Exhaust retainer
    -1 damaged camshaft (intake) this is a result of the retiners being so high up, they made contact with the roller rocker. The hardened particles from the retainer get transfered to the cam and etch it away like sandblasting.
    -3 damaged intake springs. Razor sharp edge around the tops, due to rocker contact. Also due to retainer walking, due to insufficient spring pressure, due to cracked retainers that have walked upwards.

    This car did have some SMALL symptoms. Idle would drop very low, and almost stall. It would also shudder at idle. Other than that, it ran fine and had no noise. This is not the typical "idle low/shake/idle return to normal". This car's idle was low, about 500, and was a little shaky.

    This car is the 7th car I've found broken intake retainers during routine maint out of 370 s2k's, give or take a few.

    THIS IS THE FIRST CAR I HAVE SEEN WITH A BROKEN EXHAUST RETAINER. All exhaust retainers I have seen (about 3000, 370 X 8) were never broken till now. Not even the slightest bit of recession. However, one exhaust retainer had SOMEWHAT recessed keepers. Sure enough I pull it and it was broken. The other 7 were fine. So I did new F22 retainers on the intakes and F20 on the exhaust. One used cam, 3 used springs.

    Pics in a bit....
    The thread is here: https://www.s2ki.com/forums/s2000-un...tainer-488090/

Last edited by modifierwong; 01-24-2018 at 10:26 AM.
Old 01-22-2018, 04:03 PM
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In all fairness it seems that car had one hell of an incident. IMO the better approach would be to evaluate the condition on the intake retainers after removal and then the exhaust retainers in place. Use your observations to guide if you could have a cracked exhaust retainer. If your intake retainers don't show obvious signs of a massive overrev and/or the exhaust retainers don't seem sunken then leave them alone.

So what is the the general consensus on tools to do intake only (retainer tools, rope vs air)?
Old 01-24-2018, 08:23 AM
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For the intake the hammer tool will work with either compressor or rope. The cheap spring compressor you have to butcher in order for it to work will work with both. The more expensive tool that uses a bolt to press down on the spring, that you have to butcher slightly as well works with both.

If you have a good air compressor the job is a cinch with the hammer tool, you can literally get it done in less time than it takes you to put the cams back on and adjust the valves. If you don't have a good air compressor and only have rope it becomes a little trickier but still doable, but impossible on the exhaust side. To recap, rope and hammer tool works on the intakes, not on the exhaust side.

The other tools let you compress the spring as much as you want or need so the rope will work with both, the hammer tool doesn't, so unless you have some herculean strength to compress the exhaust springs it ain't happening. The rope will hold up the intake valves enough for it to work. Again, if you have a good air compressor you can do both with the hammer tool.
Old 01-24-2018, 09:46 AM
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Originally Posted by Slowcrash_101
For the intake the hammer tool will work with either compressor or rope. The cheap spring compressor you have to butcher in order for it to work will work with both. The more expensive tool that uses a bolt to press down on the spring, that you have to butcher slightly as well works with both.

If you have a good air compressor the job is a cinch with the hammer tool, you can literally get it done in less time than it takes you to put the cams back on and adjust the valves. If you don't have a good air compressor and only have rope it becomes a little trickier but still doable, but impossible on the exhaust side. To recap, rope and hammer tool works on the intakes, not on the exhaust side.

The other tools let you compress the spring as much as you want or need so the rope will work with both, the hammer tool doesn't, so unless you have some herculean strength to compress the exhaust springs it ain't happening. The rope will hold up the intake valves enough for it to work. Again, if you have a good air compressor you can do both with the hammer tool.
My whole mantra for using the lever arm tool was that I wanted to take it slow and steady, while being able to control the movement of the valve precisely and lower the chance of mistakes. Don't be this guy below...

(Pwnzrschreck wrote...)
Yeeeeeaaaah, be especially wary of this if you're trying to use the Lisle tool. I put some extra pressure in the cylinder to help hold the valve up while pushing down to install the new retainers. On the 6th retainer karma caught up to me and the valve fell all the way in. Tried to recover it with a magnet, but didn't have the patience (or a camera). The head is off now, waiting on the UPS man so I can start putting things back together. Hoping to be back on the road in a week .

That tool is super slick for removing the retainers, and I think 9 times out of 10 you could get them back on with it, but it's a bit of a gamble with the head in place.
Old 01-24-2018, 11:55 AM
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You know the saying, if they make something foolproof they'll just invent a better fool.
Old 01-25-2018, 04:52 AM
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Originally Posted by Slowcrash_101
You know the saying, if they make something foolproof they'll just invent a better fool.
Well, that's the thing...the Lisle tool by design is more difficult to use for the backyard mechanic that most of us are, specifically for installation as you previously pointed out. Removal on the other hand, didn't seem to be an issue.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but it sounds like you've worked with multiple vehicles, and thus have had a lot of experience using various valve compression tools. For those of us who are using valve compression tools for the first time, the best tool to use is the one least prone to error.
Old 01-25-2018, 09:29 AM
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Yes if you want the best chance of success in my opinion a tool that lets you compress the spring as you see fit is best.
Old 02-17-2018, 08:08 PM
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Originally Posted by modifierwong
My whole mantra for using the lever arm tool was that I wanted to take it slow and steady, while being able to control the movement of the valve precisely and lower the chance of mistakes. Don't be this guy below...
Only thing that everyone seems to miss is if you move the piston to TDC on the cylinder you are working on........with air even a little air compressor should work. If a valve falls(MINE DID ONCE) you will hear a rush of air. It's ok.....just reach in with bare fingers and pull the valve back up and it will shut/stay and re-try. It will NOT fall all the way in because the piston is at the top of its stroke.

The hammer tool is FASTER, easier, and cheaper and best of all requires no modifications......it just works!!
Old 02-18-2018, 01:38 PM
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I used the Lisle Tool also to change my retainers. I haven't worked on valves previously but as Pinky says above - if the cylinder being worked on is kept at TDC then it won't fall into the cylinder.
I used a dead blow plastic hammer, you don't need to hit it with wrath of god force. Better to use a controlled steady hit on the Lisle tool.
Also, make sure all holes are blocked on the engine so that cotters are not lost.
Old 04-29-2018, 05:38 PM
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I just got done with this. I used nylon rope instead of compressed air. It was pretty easy.

I used the same spring Compressor as OP. One tip I have to break the pins loose is to pull down on the Compressor handle to load the spring a bit, then hammer the handle. It works every time and it's real easy.

The listle tool is nice to have but it isn't real difficult if you are careful with a magnetic pickup tool.
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