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URGENT! Need help with the heating isn't hot

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Old 04-24-2012, 10:07 AM
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Default URGENT! Need help with the heating isn't hot

So I installed the new aluminum radiator because the stock was crack due to its old. Got the radiator installed and everything following Billman step for the coolant flush. For somehow it didn't get hot so I put my feet to the gas pedal and have it rev around 1500-2300 RPM for like a minute and wow I can feel the hot heat coming out so I figure its all set. Drive the car to the store came out and start the car up and double checking to see if the heat is hot again no luck back to cold air try to do all the step again still no luck. The fans are working for the AC nice and cold and I could feel both the upper and bottom hose for the radiator is nice n hot. Is the aluminum radiator suppose to be hot?? Just got another gallon of Honda coolant type 2 because when i was bleeding i was loosing fluid.
Old 04-24-2012, 10:15 AM
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Originally Posted by Vinny_GPW-S2K
So I installed the new aluminum radiator because the stock was crack due to its old. Got the radiator installed and everything following Billman step for the coolant flush. For somehow it didn't get hot so I put my feet to the gas pedal and have it rev around 1500-2300 RPM for like a minute and wow I can feel the hot heat coming out so I figure its all set. Drive the car to the store came out and start the car up and double checking to see if the heat is hot again no luck back to cold air try to do all the step again still no luck. The fans are working for the AC nice and cold and I could feel both the upper and bottom hose for the radiator is nice n hot. Is the aluminum radiator suppose to be hot?? Just got another gallon of Honda coolant type 2 because when i was bleeding i was loosing fluid.
You just need to do the bleed procedure again, sometimes it can take a couple of tries to get all of the air out on rad change, even 2-3 times depending on the circumstance. If you didn't have the heater set to full hot when you dumped the rad and fluid it can be harder to bleed when you put it all back together, requiring additional bleed procedures. Keep trying it will eventually work.
Old 04-24-2012, 01:04 PM
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Still have air, guaranteed.
Old 04-24-2012, 02:03 PM
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Okay I find the problem if I turn the temperature knob fast from cold to heat the valve doesn't turn right away but if I move it slowly it move and I got the hot heat. What can I clean the valve with or do to make it move freely like it use to be? Saw this picture from one of the post.

And here link where I got some of the info from I didn't play with the valve but just trying the temperature knob inside the car only.
http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2869576
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Old 04-24-2012, 05:13 PM
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Now I'm back to step one all over again didn't heat up again..I'm gonna try to bleed the air out again tomorrow.
Old 04-24-2012, 06:43 PM
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Bleed bleed bleed. Do it four or five times.
Old 04-24-2012, 06:59 PM
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Quick question on Billman250 procedure:

Fill the radiator with the front bleeder open, dont even bother with the one on the firewall. It does not work as intended.
Close bleeder. <-----(DO I CLOSE THE RADIATOR CAP OFF OR LEAVE IT OPEN WITH THE FUNNEL?)

Turn heat on high. Start car, idle to operating temp (3 bars on ap1)
TURN CAR OFF. Open bleeder slowly, air will come out. Squeeze top hose, addition air will come out. Close bleeder WHILE HOSE IS SQUEEZED. Release hose.
Open rad, fill to top. (WHEN YOU DO THIS DOESN'T THE COOLANT BURST FLUID OUT AS WELL OR IT DOESN'T SINCE THE ADDITION AIR IS OUT?)

Run car another 2 minutes, shut off, repeat bleed above.
Repeat until all air is out, and heat blows hot air.
The key here is never open the bleeder with the car running. If you read carefully you will see at no point do you do so. All that will do is waste coolant, and stop you from getting the air out.

Why is all the video on youtube the way they do it is that they leave the radiator cap open, fill the coolant, start the car and wait till it get to the normal temperature, while the car still running open the bleeder for the air pocket to come out then close it then radiator cap back on ..

Hopefully I'll get this solve tomorrow...lol
Old 04-25-2012, 06:58 PM
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BUMP!
Old 04-25-2012, 07:17 PM
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This is how I do it, I've dumped my rad fluid 4 times and never had an air pocket issue. I do the bleed with the radiator cap off and fluid filled to the bottom of the rad neck. Run the engine until you get to 3 bars and the fans turn on and off a couple times put the cap on the rad and shut off the car, and then open the bleed screw on the manifold. Close the screw when fluid flows out in a steady stream usually only takes a few seconds, have some rags around it as it will spill a bit of fluid. When you are running the engine have the air temp to full hot and run the interior fan at slow speed, you will know when the car is properly bled when you feel really hot air coming out of the vents.

After the engine is cold remove the rad cap and see if you need to add more fluid to get the level up to the bottom of the rad neck, and make sure the overflow tank is full.
Old 04-25-2012, 08:24 PM
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http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-24610-Sp.../dp/B001A4EAV0

Get a spill free funnel. Hook up the funnel , loose the bleeder plug, add coolant until coolant comes out of the plug then tighten the bleeder plug. Idle the engine until coolant fan comes on twice. Place radiator cap and you are done.


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