Upper control arm frame nut stripped, NEED HELP!
09-20-2012, 05:12 PM
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Upper control arm frame nut stripped, NEED HELP!
Hey guys,
so i bought some coilovers for my s2, and when installing them you need to take out the two bolts that holds the upper control arm in.. so when taking one of those bolts out, i noticed the bolt came out stripped and the welded on nut that is on the control arm is also stripped. So of course i just bought a new bolt from honda, but as for the nut.. would getting a dremel with a cutting wheel be able to take off the tack welds on that nut? and i have already tried using a tap to re thread the nut, and didnt turn out so well.Any advice is appreciated!
so i bought some coilovers for my s2, and when installing them you need to take out the two bolts that holds the upper control arm in.. so when taking one of those bolts out, i noticed the bolt came out stripped and the welded on nut that is on the control arm is also stripped. So of course i just bought a new bolt from honda, but as for the nut.. would getting a dremel with a cutting wheel be able to take off the tack welds on that nut? and i have already tried using a tap to re thread the nut, and didnt turn out so well.Any advice is appreciated!
09-20-2012, 06:51 PM
#2
Hey guys,
so i bought some coilovers for my s2, and when installing them you need to take out the two bolts that holds the upper control arm in.. so when taking one of those bolts out, i noticed the bolt came out stripped and the welded on nut that is on the control arm is also stripped. So of course i just bought a new bolt from honda, but as for the nut.. would getting a dremel with a cutting wheel be able to take off the tack welds on that nut? and i have already tried using a tap to re thread the nut, and didnt turn out so well.Any advice is appreciated!
so i bought some coilovers for my s2, and when installing them you need to take out the two bolts that holds the upper control arm in.. so when taking one of those bolts out, i noticed the bolt came out stripped and the welded on nut that is on the control arm is also stripped. So of course i just bought a new bolt from honda, but as for the nut.. would getting a dremel with a cutting wheel be able to take off the tack welds on that nut? and i have already tried using a tap to re thread the nut, and didnt turn out so well.Any advice is appreciated!
First put in the old bolt and spin it a few times to strip the hell out of the old nut and any loose threads will come out. Remove the old bolt and then put in the new bolt. Go through the old nut and onto the new nut. Torque the bolt to 75.9 ft lbs while you are holding the new nut with a box end wrench, and you are good to go. The nice part of this repair is that the bolt is a Honda suspension bolt and the nut is designed to hold the torque, the old nut helps you maintain proper alignment and geometry so nothing moves around. Go to your Honda parts guy and give him these two part numbers
Bolt is: 90118-SNA-000
NUT is: 90395-S5A-003
I've got a couple of these parts on hand in case my other ones ever strip out, but the parts are easily available from any Honda dealer, should be next day delivery . The repair is too easy.
09-20-2012, 07:50 PM
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Originally Posted by chriss.' timestamp='1348189937' post='22027217
Hey guys,
so i bought some coilovers for my s2, and when installing them you need to take out the two bolts that holds the upper control arm in.. so when taking one of those bolts out, i noticed the bolt came out stripped and the welded on nut that is on the control arm is also stripped. So of course i just bought a new bolt from honda, but as for the nut.. would getting a dremel with a cutting wheel be able to take off the tack welds on that nut? and i have already tried using a tap to re thread the nut, and didnt turn out so well.Any advice is appreciated!
so i bought some coilovers for my s2, and when installing them you need to take out the two bolts that holds the upper control arm in.. so when taking one of those bolts out, i noticed the bolt came out stripped and the welded on nut that is on the control arm is also stripped. So of course i just bought a new bolt from honda, but as for the nut.. would getting a dremel with a cutting wheel be able to take off the tack welds on that nut? and i have already tried using a tap to re thread the nut, and didnt turn out so well.Any advice is appreciated!
First put in the old bolt and spin it a few times to strip the hell out of the old nut and any loose threads will come out. Remove the old bolt and then put in the new bolt. Go through the old nut and onto the new nut. Torque the bolt to 75.9 ft lbs while you are holding the new nut with a box end wrench, and you are good to go. The nice part of this repair is that the bolt is a Honda suspension bolt and the nut is designed to hold the torque, the old nut helps you maintain proper alignment and geometry so nothing moves around. Go to your Honda parts guy and give him these two part numbers
Bolt is: 90118-SNA-000
NUT is: 90395-S5A-003
I've got a couple of these parts on hand in case my other ones ever strip out, but the parts are easily available from any Honda dealer, should be next day delivery . The repair is too easy.
09-20-2012, 08:06 PM
#4
The reason why I don't cut off the oem nut is to keep the original geometry, if you cut off the oem nut and replace it with a new nut you might get some movement in the setup. You don't get movement with my fix. The upper arm doesn't play into the alignment settings, there isn't anything to adjust on the upper arm.
Just to confirm that my repair was on the upper front control arm, I haven't tried it on the rear upper arms but I would approach it the same way as long as the bolt I'm using fits on the rear and is the proper length.
Just to confirm that my repair was on the upper front control arm, I haven't tried it on the rear upper arms but I would approach it the same way as long as the bolt I'm using fits on the rear and is the proper length.
09-21-2012, 03:53 AM
#5
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The best and easiest repair is to order a longer bolt from Honda and the appropriate matching nut. You simply put in the new bolt and place the new nut over the old nut, so it looks like a double nut setup.
First put in the old bolt and spin it a few times to strip the hell out of the old nut and any loose threads will come out. Remove the old bolt and then put in the new bolt. Go through the old nut and onto the new nut. Torque the bolt to 75.9 ft lbs while you are holding the new nut with a box end wrench, and you are good to go. The nice part of this repair is that the bolt is a Honda suspension bolt and the nut is designed to hold the torque, the old nut helps you maintain proper alignment and geometry so nothing moves around. Go to your Honda parts guy and give him these two part numbers
Bolt is: 90118-SNA-000
NUT is: 90395-S5A-003
I've got a couple of these parts on hand in case my other ones ever strip out, but the parts are easily available from any Honda dealer, should be next day delivery . The repair is too easy.
First put in the old bolt and spin it a few times to strip the hell out of the old nut and any loose threads will come out. Remove the old bolt and then put in the new bolt. Go through the old nut and onto the new nut. Torque the bolt to 75.9 ft lbs while you are holding the new nut with a box end wrench, and you are good to go. The nice part of this repair is that the bolt is a Honda suspension bolt and the nut is designed to hold the torque, the old nut helps you maintain proper alignment and geometry so nothing moves around. Go to your Honda parts guy and give him these two part numbers
Bolt is: 90118-SNA-000
NUT is: 90395-S5A-003
I've got a couple of these parts on hand in case my other ones ever strip out, but the parts are easily available from any Honda dealer, should be next day delivery . The repair is too easy.
Also, keep in mind that ALL the control arm bushings are rubber-in-torsion, and they MUST be preloaded. So are the lower shock bushings. Leave the bolts loose (or nut and bolt with jfusion's fix), then put the wheels on the car and lower the car onto RAMPS so the suspension is compressed. Then go under the car and tighten them. If you dont, the bushing will remain in a loaded (twisted) state and will cause ride height and handling issues. It will also damage the bushings by over-twisting them.
09-21-2012, 04:45 AM
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Perfect repair.
Also, keep in mind that ALL the control arm bushings are rubber-in-torsion, and they MUST be preloaded. So are the lower shock bushings. Leave the bolts loose (or nut and bolt with jfusion's fix), then put the wheels on the car and lower the car onto RAMPS so the suspension is compressed. Then go under the car and tighten them. If you dont, the bushing will remain in a loaded (twisted) state and will cause ride height and handling issues. It will also damage the bushings by over-twisting them.
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09-21-2012, 04:55 AM
#8
Yea that works also, just carefully jack it up on the rotor till the suspension fully compresses then tighten
09-21-2012, 11:43 AM
#9
That's a good question, I'm open to any suggestions, thanks for offering to do that. It seems to be happening more and more often, those nuts tend to get killed by rust over time I suspect.
