UOA Report
08-08-2009, 08:48 AM
#21
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Originally Posted by iDomN8U,Aug 8 2009, 08:43 AM
Then you're mechanic is using crappy oil, since the UOA i've seen posted came back as 10w30 even after 8+K and track time.
Don't get upset and don't be surprised if you don't get any feedback to your question, since most of us here follow what honda recommends for viscosity.
Don't get upset and don't be surprised if you don't get any feedback to your question, since most of us here follow what honda recommends for viscosity.
Edit: The oil was also Castrol 10W30 which was recommended by you.
08-08-2009, 09:56 AM
#22
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if the oil is shearing down after only 3000 miles, i'm guessing it's not a very good oil. castrol 10w30 doesnt mean much. i'm sure castrol has a couple flavors of 10w30.
08-08-2009, 10:25 AM
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Aluminum and iron together are IMO piston and piston ring wear.
I don't know what element FRM cylinder walls would have given.
Copper is low, meaning bearings.
Your car is an '02 with the F20, in Europe the F20's (up to '03 IIRC) were called back to get the oil jet bolts replaced.
The newer oil jets are supposed to be better during high revs for prolonged time (German Autobahn and such)
In your case it would not have been done as a recall, the previous owner may - or may not - have done it.
Maybe, just maybe, the levels of alu and iron you're seeing is because of the combination of dino oil, "old" oil jets and track time / high oil temps.
Use a quality proven syn xxW-30 (Amsoil?)
I say "xx" because 10W is NOT a must, you might as well go for 0W or 5W, depending on the start-up temps.
I hope this helps.
I don't know what element FRM cylinder walls would have given.
Copper is low, meaning bearings.
Your car is an '02 with the F20, in Europe the F20's (up to '03 IIRC) were called back to get the oil jet bolts replaced.
The newer oil jets are supposed to be better during high revs for prolonged time (German Autobahn and such)
In your case it would not have been done as a recall, the previous owner may - or may not - have done it.
Maybe, just maybe, the levels of alu and iron you're seeing is because of the combination of dino oil, "old" oil jets and track time / high oil temps.
Use a quality proven syn xxW-30 (Amsoil?)
I say "xx" because 10W is NOT a must, you might as well go for 0W or 5W, depending on the start-up temps.
I hope this helps.
08-08-2009, 10:33 AM
#24
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Originally Posted by SpitfireS,Aug 8 2009, 10:25 AM
Aluminum and iron together are IMO piston and piston ring wear.
I don't know what element FRM cylinder walls would have given.
Copper is low, meaning bearings.
Your car is an '02 with the F20, in Europe the F20's (up to '03 IIRC) were called back to get the oil jet bolts replaced.
The newer oil jets are supposed to be better during high revs for prolonged time (German Autobahn and such)
In your case it would not have been done as a recall, the previous owner may - or may not - have done it.
Maybe, just maybe, the levels of alu and iron you're seeing is because of the combination of dino oil, "old" oil jets and track time / high oil temps.
Use a quality proven syn xxW-30 (Amsoil?)
I say "xx" because 10W is NOT a must, you might as well go for 0W or 5W, depending on the start-up temps.
I hope this helps.
I don't know what element FRM cylinder walls would have given.
Copper is low, meaning bearings.
Your car is an '02 with the F20, in Europe the F20's (up to '03 IIRC) were called back to get the oil jet bolts replaced.
The newer oil jets are supposed to be better during high revs for prolonged time (German Autobahn and such)
In your case it would not have been done as a recall, the previous owner may - or may not - have done it.
Maybe, just maybe, the levels of alu and iron you're seeing is because of the combination of dino oil, "old" oil jets and track time / high oil temps.
Use a quality proven syn xxW-30 (Amsoil?)
I say "xx" because 10W is NOT a must, you might as well go for 0W or 5W, depending on the start-up temps.
I hope this helps.
08-09-2009, 01:09 AM
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loserwill Posted on Aug 8 2009, 08:33 PM
Yeah.
The Honda dealer I guess.
Or HTG, (=HardTopGuy) a site sponsor.
You may want to read a sticky on top of S2k Talk about HTG before ordering but IIRC he has got his stuff together now.
There is nothing wrong, as in manufacturing fault, with AP1 retainers.
They just don't like overrevs, but one should not overrev anyway.
There are many AP1 cars with over 80k-100k miles without any retainer problems.
If you do decide to get AP2 retainers get the keepers as well.
The intake retainers are probably all you need to do.
Find a shop that will swap them without taking the head off (= official manual procedure).
Is this the Banjo bolt issue that I've read about?
If I wanted to go about replacing the oil jets, were is the best place to buy the parts?
Or HTG, (=HardTopGuy) a site sponsor.
You may want to read a sticky on top of S2k Talk about HTG before ordering but IIRC he has got his stuff together now.
Also, should I switch to AP2 retainers at the same time?
They just don't like overrevs, but one should not overrev anyway.
There are many AP1 cars with over 80k-100k miles without any retainer problems.
If you do decide to get AP2 retainers get the keepers as well.
The intake retainers are probably all you need to do.
Find a shop that will swap them without taking the head off (= official manual procedure).
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