unexplained rear main seal failure
#22
6 qts?
Every oil change I've ever done on mine has used exactly 5qts to hit the top dipstick line perfectly- on both sides and before cranking the motor while cooled down.
I checked my oil about 500 miles since the last change 2 days ago where I used 5 qts and it's still perfect with no signs of burn off.
odd.
Every oil change I've ever done on mine has used exactly 5qts to hit the top dipstick line perfectly- on both sides and before cranking the motor while cooled down.
I checked my oil about 500 miles since the last change 2 days ago where I used 5 qts and it's still perfect with no signs of burn off.
odd.
#23
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IMO these things happen. I'm inclined to believe the Oil pump failed. I've seen brand new oil pumps from Honda fail, so at 166k the owner should be happy he got good life out of it.
What main bearing spun?
I don't think this should cause panic and I don't think that anyone can just say "do this" and it won't happen to you. Just like the stupid banjo bolts craze. I've built motors and plugged off the oil squirters, using these motors in sand rails pegged at 9k for ever. But since S2ki says you should change the 2 hole banjo bolt to a newer 4 hole banjo bolt, everyone jumped on the ban wagon and paid for pointless modification to local mechanics. *smh
Too many factors to consider. Perhaps the bearings were already worn and racing it just cased the motor. Mobil 1 oil is not the greatest against heat. I like Motul oil 6100 10w-40 weight. Its cheap and holds viscosity better than Mobil one and 10w-30 weight. In real life a stock motor can only handle 15k miles of straight racing, if that. That's why here in Cali at Thunder Hill 25hr endurance, its so hard just to keep a motor alive under race conditions. If you drove like a grandma then yes it should live longer but when we have fun with this car, don't expect it to break 200k miles all the time. Chances are they aren't going to live. I've seen cars with full oil spin rod bearings and main bearings. Detonation also causes bearings to spin. Not saying that this caused it, but just pointing out the fact its pointless to try and figure it out. Just rebuild the motor / or upgrade to a 2.2L now that is blown.
Chalk it up to shit happens when you race.
What main bearing spun?
I don't think this should cause panic and I don't think that anyone can just say "do this" and it won't happen to you. Just like the stupid banjo bolts craze. I've built motors and plugged off the oil squirters, using these motors in sand rails pegged at 9k for ever. But since S2ki says you should change the 2 hole banjo bolt to a newer 4 hole banjo bolt, everyone jumped on the ban wagon and paid for pointless modification to local mechanics. *smh
Too many factors to consider. Perhaps the bearings were already worn and racing it just cased the motor. Mobil 1 oil is not the greatest against heat. I like Motul oil 6100 10w-40 weight. Its cheap and holds viscosity better than Mobil one and 10w-30 weight. In real life a stock motor can only handle 15k miles of straight racing, if that. That's why here in Cali at Thunder Hill 25hr endurance, its so hard just to keep a motor alive under race conditions. If you drove like a grandma then yes it should live longer but when we have fun with this car, don't expect it to break 200k miles all the time. Chances are they aren't going to live. I've seen cars with full oil spin rod bearings and main bearings. Detonation also causes bearings to spin. Not saying that this caused it, but just pointing out the fact its pointless to try and figure it out. Just rebuild the motor / or upgrade to a 2.2L now that is blown.
Chalk it up to shit happens when you race.
#24
6 qts?
Every oil change I've ever done on mine has used exactly 5qts to hit the top dipstick line perfectly- on both sides and before cranking the motor while cooled down.
I checked my oil about 500 miles since the last change 2 days ago where I used 5 qts and it's still perfect with no signs of burn off.
odd.
Every oil change I've ever done on mine has used exactly 5qts to hit the top dipstick line perfectly- on both sides and before cranking the motor while cooled down.
I checked my oil about 500 miles since the last change 2 days ago where I used 5 qts and it's still perfect with no signs of burn off.
odd.
ROD
#25
Banned
if a main spun then the associated rod bearing will be toast 90% of the time.
I have had a rash of blocks come in with spun 2, 3 and 4th main bearings (i didnt get the cranks with them so I have no idea if the rod bearings were toast)
I dont think the rear main "leak" has anything to do with the failure. This is one of those times where I would reserve judgement until the motor is apart.
I have had a rash of blocks come in with spun 2, 3 and 4th main bearings (i didnt get the cranks with them so I have no idea if the rod bearings were toast)
I dont think the rear main "leak" has anything to do with the failure. This is one of those times where I would reserve judgement until the motor is apart.
#26
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The oil jet bolt change was/is an official Honda recall for early MY cars, in Europe.
It seemed like, when runing them at high rpm and high load for long periods, #4 cilinder would score.
After MY'03 and a certain engine # ALL F20's (and F22's since they were introduced) engine's have those pointless modifications.
Why would Honda recall cars in Europe to install pointless modifications, for free?
I've built motors and plugged off the oil squirters, using these motors in sand rails pegged at 9k for ever
#27
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Were talking F20's.. right?
Anyways, not to de-rail the thread. My opinion is the Oil pump may have failed. What ever pick your poison. The motor is done. Go upgrade to a 2.2L or buy another used motor. There is plenty on the net.
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I'd imagine a plugged up oil galley to that specific crank journal could cause this type of failure. I've never heard of this happening though, even with cars that are tracked with no air filter.
#29
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A little extra de-rail, I think it's ok.
As far as I know, owners running at high rpm/speed for prolonged time ended up scoring #4 cilinder due to inefficient oil flow to that piston & cilinder wall.
If one, just to show it's not racing or abuse, lives in Frankfurt am Main and visits friends in Hannover twice a month, it's very possible, normal and even legal to drive at/over 200kmh for a while.
Just like the Merc's, BMW's Audi's and the rest do on that part of the Autobahn without speed limit - even today.
If S2k owners were showing up at dealers with engine's running bad due to scored cilinders, I'm sure Honda Europe called Honda Japan and suggested "This should be fixed"
The updated oil jet was the fix and were installed per recall in Europe.
I'm surpriced your F20's survive at 9k all day, going up and down dunes in buggy's WITHOUT oil squirters cooling pistons and cilinder walls.
End of de-rail.
I hope evidence of a failed oil pump is still there, and shavings small enough to be sucked up didn't do more damage.
The oil pressure is always high enough to never allow anything else to enter the oil stream and be mixed with it, like coolant?
Via the headgasket?
A mix of coolant & oil would not lube as well.
If this happened the same day the car was driven for the first time after a long storage it could, COULD be contamination of oil.
The smoke after idle, was that white, black or grey, water, oil or fuel?
If one, just to show it's not racing or abuse, lives in Frankfurt am Main and visits friends in Hannover twice a month, it's very possible, normal and even legal to drive at/over 200kmh for a while.
Just like the Merc's, BMW's Audi's and the rest do on that part of the Autobahn without speed limit - even today.
If S2k owners were showing up at dealers with engine's running bad due to scored cilinders, I'm sure Honda Europe called Honda Japan and suggested "This should be fixed"
The updated oil jet was the fix and were installed per recall in Europe.
I'm surpriced your F20's survive at 9k all day, going up and down dunes in buggy's WITHOUT oil squirters cooling pistons and cilinder walls.
End of de-rail.
I hope evidence of a failed oil pump is still there, and shavings small enough to be sucked up didn't do more damage.
The oil pressure is always high enough to never allow anything else to enter the oil stream and be mixed with it, like coolant?
Via the headgasket?
A mix of coolant & oil would not lube as well.
If this happened the same day the car was driven for the first time after a long storage it could, COULD be contamination of oil.
The smoke after idle, was that white, black or grey, water, oil or fuel?
#30
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Thread Starter
Amazing how things happen in droves.
Had a guy here yesterday with a 2005, 63k on the odometer, rear main seal was pissing oil out. Clutch and entire undercarriage from the trans back was soaked with oil.
No engine damage, changed clutch and seal, TCT, valve adjust and all is good.
Had a guy here yesterday with a 2005, 63k on the odometer, rear main seal was pissing oil out. Clutch and entire undercarriage from the trans back was soaked with oil.
No engine damage, changed clutch and seal, TCT, valve adjust and all is good.