Uneven camber
08-23-2006, 07:48 AM
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Uneven camber
Will having uneven right/left camber make the handling unpredictable?
The reason I ask is I got my car alligned today, and told them to get it as close to stock as possible. The front worked out fine, but on the rear they got one side to -1.7* and the other side to -2.1*. I realize this is a bit more aggressive than stock specs and will lead to more tire wear, which I'm fine with, but I was just worried that having closer to stock on the left and more aggressive on the right would lead to unpredictable handling.
The reason I ask is I got my car alligned today, and told them to get it as close to stock as possible. The front worked out fine, but on the rear they got one side to -1.7* and the other side to -2.1*. I realize this is a bit more aggressive than stock specs and will lead to more tire wear, which I'm fine with, but I was just worried that having closer to stock on the left and more aggressive on the right would lead to unpredictable handling.
08-23-2006, 09:17 AM
#2
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It can be, and should be the same with you sitting in the car. It will affect your handling. That's an unacceptable alignment for the family station wagon, let alone an S2000!
08-23-2006, 09:35 AM
#3
I'd want both sides to be close to the same. I'm doubtful you'll notice much additional tire wear at 2.1* versus 1.7 . I'd have gotten the alignment shop to make them the same.
Stock is -1.5* +- .5 (if I read it correctly).
Stock is -1.5* +- .5 (if I read it correctly).
08-23-2006, 10:30 AM
#4
I have my driver's side done .2 of a degree less because when I found that when I sit in the car that I add .2 of a degree of camber to that side.
This way I have even camber when I drive.
So if you don't get uneven camber from the alignment tech you have uneven alignment when you drive.
This way I have even camber when I drive.
So if you don't get uneven camber from the alignment tech you have uneven alignment when you drive.
08-23-2006, 10:37 AM
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So what you're saying is that your weight lowers the car a bit and changes the camber by .2*. So say I have -1.7* on my driver side, does this mean I'll be at roughly -1.9*, or -1.5* (considering all factors were the same as yours, which I'm sure they're not, just wondering hypothetically). I'd assume lowering it would increase the amount of negative camber, thus being ~-1.9*, but I just wanted to confirm.
08-23-2006, 10:52 AM
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Jakup Posted on Aug 23 2006, 05:48 PM
IMO that is not "close to stock".
As Ek9 pointed out stock rear camber is -1.5 degree +- 0.5 degree.
So on one side you are out of stock range.
If you are not lowered or anything they should be able to get it to stock specs and equal.
It may take more time.. but you paid $$ to get it done.
So they have to do it right.
IMO.
.... and told them to get it as close to stock as possible..... on the rear they got one side to -1.7* and the other side to -2.1*.
As Ek9 pointed out stock rear camber is -1.5 degree +- 0.5 degree.
So on one side you are out of stock range.
If you are not lowered or anything they should be able to get it to stock specs and equal.
It may take more time.. but you paid $$ to get it done.
So they have to do it right.
IMO.
08-23-2006, 02:31 PM
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Originally Posted by SpitfireS,Aug 23 2006, 02:52 PM
Jakup Posted on Aug 23 2006, 05:48 PM
IMO that is not "close to stock".
As Ek9 pointed out stock rear camber is -1.5 degree +- 0.5 degree.
So on one side you are out of stock range.
If you are not lowered or anything they should be able to get it to stock specs and equal.
It may take more time.. but you paid $$ to get it done.
So they have to do it right.
IMO.
IMO that is not "close to stock".
As Ek9 pointed out stock rear camber is -1.5 degree +- 0.5 degree.
So on one side you are out of stock range.
If you are not lowered or anything they should be able to get it to stock specs and equal.
It may take more time.. but you paid $$ to get it done.
So they have to do it right.
IMO.
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08-23-2006, 03:28 PM
#8
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The camber changes with the rear toe. If the rear toe was out of adjustment range, they may not be able to hit the camber #.
If the car has been lowered more than an inch you'll probably never be able to get the stock camber setting.
If the car has been lowered more than an inch you'll probably never be able to get the stock camber setting.
08-23-2006, 03:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Slows2k,Aug 23 2006, 07:28 PM
The camber changes with the rear toe. If the rear toe was out of adjustment range, they may not be able to hit the camber #.
If the car has been lowered more than an inch you'll probably never be able to get the stock camber setting.
If the car has been lowered more than an inch you'll probably never be able to get the stock camber setting.
08-23-2006, 06:13 PM
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i think u can get a little closer than that...to me thats a bit too far apart from each other. You really dont have to get them back to stock, -2 to -2.5 on rears are not bad at all. The main reason why the tires are getting eatin out is because of the toe. If the toe is out of wach then more than likely the car will not handle good on high speed. I would recommend you doin the euro spec if possible. They are fairly aggressive but not that aggressive to eat the tires pretty bad