mkessler

I have a 2000 S2K which has a new battery. The car sat for about 4 weeks, and when to go start it, I had a single click and then nothing. No lights at all. I ended up putting on new terminal connectors, since they were pretty worn, and still nothing. I can jump start the vehicle without issue, drive all I want, turn it off, and dead. So I tested the alternator by jumping the vehicle so it was running, and then disconnected the positive battery cable. It continued to run without issue. Sometimes when trying to start it, it just gives a fast clicking noise, and other times just a single click. My next thought is the starter, but thinking if the starter was bad, wouldn't my interior lights still work, assuming the alternator is doing it's job while driving it around. Should I move forward with replacing the starter and go from there, or hoping someone here might have another idea or two to try first, before the big starter expense. TIA.

B serious

you replaced the battery and THEN the car sat for 4 weeks and didn't start?

Single click and then no lights meaning...what? It clicked and then all the lights died? That points to a dead battery. A starter issue wouldn't cause your lights to die.

Did it start fine, right after you put in the battery?

Maybe something is killing the battery over 4 weeks. Do you have an alarm? Is a dome light on?

Check the battery voltage and amp draw with the car off.

Also...don't unplug the battery with the car running. You can damage the electrical system doing that pointless test.

Buy a $20 multi-meter (volt/ohm/amp meter) to help you diagnose this.

You should also use a trickle charger if the car needs to sit around for a long time.

Your problem sounds like a dead battery. Something is *probably* killing the battery.

Test first. Then replace parts.

windhund116

Yeah, sounds like a parasitic draw. Here's a video on that.

Car Analogy

When faced with a problem, just keep aimlessly buying parts hoping it goes away.

You said jump-starting works. So then it can't be the starter (jump start with jumper cables, right? Not push starting, yes?)

All signs point to dead battery. Was battery fully charged when it was purchased? Maybe alternator has enough power to run engine but not enough to charge battery well.

Chuck S

Click. Classic sign of a dead battery.

The S2000, or at least mine, has significant parasitic battery draw that will kill the battery in a two or three weeks without charging. Seems to be the nature of the beast. Needs to be on a trickle charge if not run routinely. Radio memory and keyless lock system are always drawing power. Reading this has reminded me to hook up the charger...

I've never measured the amperage draw so if anyone has the data I'm curious what it actually is.

-- Chuck

Car Analogy

I'll try this.

Note, if you use a battery tender type device (and not simply a trickle charger), you can connect and forget. Tender will monitor charge and not overcharge. It'll shut itself off as needed, and maintain fully charged.

A literal trickle charger won't do all that, and you'd have to keep disconnecting and later reconnecting to prevent overcharging (and damaging battery or even exploding its sulfuric acid all over engine bay).

Most of the time when people say trickle charger they really mean a tender type device. But worth mentioning if its merely a trickle charger don't leave it hooked up.

At this point tender devices are so cheap shouldn't even bother with literal trickle charger.

I have a Battery Tender brand that is over 35 years old and still works perfect.

Chuck S

Yeah I mean a "battery tender" rather than a fixed output trickle charger. When I lived in Cleveland the car sat in winter storage with a battery tender for 5 months a year without problems. Here in Richmond I gotta remember to hook up the tender if I've not driven the car for a couple of weeks -- like now.

Even something as innocent as 150ma will suck 22 amphours a week from the battery and car batteries seldom have more than 60 amphours available.

Years ago I fitted a battery disconnect switch to one of my cars so I could start it at the airport after week-long business trips. PITA but it always started after reconnecting (and resetting the radio).

-- Chuck

mkessler

I replaced the battery about 3 months ago and drove it just fine. After the last drive, it sat for 4 weeks and then didn't start. Single click and then no lights meaning... no interior or dash lights, no exterior lights.
Yes, it started fine after putting in the new battery.

I will check to see if something is draining the battery when sitting. BUT, once I jump it and drive it awhile, I can turn it off and it doesn't start...click click click click. That's why I was thinking the alternator isn't doing its job, so tried the removing the positive cable test. If alternator was bad, the car should die if you remove the positive cable.

Chuck S

Bad alternator is possible but they usual don't go bad sitting for weeks like the battery will. Jump start and run the headlights -- the alternator powers them and if they're bright the alternator is fine. Measure the voltage -- should be 13.7 or higher to charge the battery. Put the battery on a good charger at least overnight and see if it recovers. Neither a charger or the alternator can charge a completely dead (i.e.-damaged) battery. Super deep discharge as is possible with a constant low discharge will kill a battery.

-- Chuck

Car Analogy

Charging a battery requies alternator output well above 13v. Typically 14 or more.

Running engine off alternator with battery disconnected (which is a bad idea on modern cars) probably could get away woth much less than 12v.

So your test proves alternator isn't putting out nothing, but doesn't prove its putting out enough to charge battery.

A simple voltmeter test would tell you exactly how much alternator is putting out. You can buy a digital VOM at Harbor Freight for like $5. Have several they gave me free with coupon.