Unable to shift gears
11-01-2015, 01:18 AM
#1
Unable to shift gears
Hi S2KI
The short story:
- 10k ago, there was a new clutch and master installed by dealer
- Bought car
- 10k later, Car has a hard time shifting into gears especially reverse
- Bled system multiple times with same issue
- Replaced slave, still have the same issue
- No leakage from master cylinder
- Clutch fork is kid of moving freely up and down but still has pressure if trying to engage clutch
- Can still shift into all gears while car is off
What can the problem be.
The long story below.
Looking for some help before I remove the transmission. The car has about 130k on her and the following services was done at 120k by a Dealership prior to my purchase (I have the invoice for the work):
- new master cylinder
- new exedy oem clutch kit
- fluids rebled
She has not had any issues since I bought her and I have not tracked the car either. About 5k ago, I decided to try shaving the nipple off the rod from the slave. During that time, I used tape to hold the piston on the slave but it wasn't strong enough and so the piston popped off and air got it. I bled it about 5x with no issues afterwards. Fast forward to the other day where I noticed it was kind of hard going into 1st in the morning but still went in all the gears. Drove to work fine but I noticed that I had a really difficult time getting it into reverse or any gear really on the way home. By the time I was almost home, I was literally punching in the gears. I could feel vibrations coming from the clutch pedal as I release and I could hear the transmission whine when pushing in the gears.
I figure there's air in the system so I bled it 5x and still the same issue. Then I figure I may have messed up the slave and so I replaced it with a BNIB OEM slave and still the same problem. I checked the master cylinder and there's no leakage from it. The car shifts fine when the car's off as well. I did try moving the clutch fork by itself and it moved kind of freely up and down but still had pressure if I tried engaging the clutch.
Thoughts on what it can be?
Here's a video before I replaced the slave with how far the new slave traveled. I would say the new one travels about the same. Is it traveling all the way to engage the clutch or is it?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yv0z7TFVlso
The short story:
- 10k ago, there was a new clutch and master installed by dealer
- Bought car
- 10k later, Car has a hard time shifting into gears especially reverse
- Bled system multiple times with same issue
- Replaced slave, still have the same issue
- No leakage from master cylinder
- Clutch fork is kid of moving freely up and down but still has pressure if trying to engage clutch
- Can still shift into all gears while car is off
What can the problem be.
The long story below.
Looking for some help before I remove the transmission. The car has about 130k on her and the following services was done at 120k by a Dealership prior to my purchase (I have the invoice for the work):
- new master cylinder
- new exedy oem clutch kit
- fluids rebled
She has not had any issues since I bought her and I have not tracked the car either. About 5k ago, I decided to try shaving the nipple off the rod from the slave. During that time, I used tape to hold the piston on the slave but it wasn't strong enough and so the piston popped off and air got it. I bled it about 5x with no issues afterwards. Fast forward to the other day where I noticed it was kind of hard going into 1st in the morning but still went in all the gears. Drove to work fine but I noticed that I had a really difficult time getting it into reverse or any gear really on the way home. By the time I was almost home, I was literally punching in the gears. I could feel vibrations coming from the clutch pedal as I release and I could hear the transmission whine when pushing in the gears.
I figure there's air in the system so I bled it 5x and still the same issue. Then I figure I may have messed up the slave and so I replaced it with a BNIB OEM slave and still the same problem. I checked the master cylinder and there's no leakage from it. The car shifts fine when the car's off as well. I did try moving the clutch fork by itself and it moved kind of freely up and down but still had pressure if I tried engaging the clutch.
Thoughts on what it can be?
Here's a video before I replaced the slave with how far the new slave traveled. I would say the new one travels about the same. Is it traveling all the way to engage the clutch or is it?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yv0z7TFVlso
11-01-2015, 05:29 PM
#2
Maybe your release bearing, those exedy replacements are notorious for using cheap bearings.
11-01-2015, 05:50 PM
#3
11-01-2015, 06:22 PM
#4
Here's a video before I replaced the slave with how far the new slave traveled. I would say the new one travels about the same. Is it traveling all the way to engage the clutch or is it?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yv0z7TFVlso
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yv0z7TFVlso
11-02-2015, 10:24 AM
#5
The exedy clutch sucks, and you will be replacing it sooner than should ever be the case. But wait for it to really fail first. Your current issue is classic clutch drag, which is a problem with clutch disengagement, not with the clutch itself.
Assumming you bled it properly (gravity bled, master never run dry during the process, slave removed and oriented with bleeder pointing up, etc), then your next step should be:
Adjust clutch pedal height
Adjust clutch rod play
If these don't fix your issue, its either air still in the lines, or a bad master or slave cylinder. You already replaced the slave, so master it would be (can be bad even if it doesn't appear to be leaking).
Was dealer that replaced clutch using exedy a Honda dealer???
Sent from my SM-G920P using IB AutoGroup
Assumming you bled it properly (gravity bled, master never run dry during the process, slave removed and oriented with bleeder pointing up, etc), then your next step should be:
Adjust clutch pedal height
Adjust clutch rod play
If these don't fix your issue, its either air still in the lines, or a bad master or slave cylinder. You already replaced the slave, so master it would be (can be bad even if it doesn't appear to be leaking).
Was dealer that replaced clutch using exedy a Honda dealer???
Sent from my SM-G920P using IB AutoGroup
11-02-2015, 11:48 AM
#6
Your slave has perfectly normal function from the looks of it, remember the pressure plate is moving thousandths of an inch that's .005" or something like that. So about 1.5" of leverage at the slave piston gets turned into .5" at the fork/release bearing, to .025" at the diaphragm springs to .005 at the pressure plate surface. Do this, with the car on, parked, in neutral, shift it into gear while holding the clutch. You'll hear the bearing make noise if it's going bad. Don't drive the car( just have it running) hold clutch, put into gear of choice, listen for noise, then put in neutral and shut it off, and prepare for the pain of pulling the tranny, if indeed that's the case.
11-02-2015, 01:20 PM
#7
"I could feel vibrations coming from the clutch pedal as I release and I could hear the transmission whine when pushing in the gears."
When my clutch spring broke I had strong vibrations in the pedal and strong whining noises when engaging gears. Sounds like your clutch is toast unfortunately.
When my clutch spring broke I had strong vibrations in the pedal and strong whining noises when engaging gears. Sounds like your clutch is toast unfortunately.
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11-02-2015, 11:19 PM
#8
The exedy clutch sucks, and you will be replacing it sooner than should ever be the case. But wait for it to really fail first. Your current issue is classic clutch drag, which is a problem with clutch disengagement, not with the clutch itself.
Assumming you bled it properly (gravity bled, master never run dry during the process, slave removed and oriented with bleeder pointing up, etc), then your next step should be:
Adjust clutch pedal height
Adjust clutch rod play
If these don't fix your issue, its either air still in the lines, or a bad master or slave cylinder. You already replaced the slave, so master it would be (can be bad even if it doesn't appear to be leaking).
Was dealer that replaced clutch using exedy a Honda dealer???
Sent from my SM-G920P using IB AutoGroup
Assumming you bled it properly (gravity bled, master never run dry during the process, slave removed and oriented with bleeder pointing up, etc), then your next step should be:
Adjust clutch pedal height
Adjust clutch rod play
If these don't fix your issue, its either air still in the lines, or a bad master or slave cylinder. You already replaced the slave, so master it would be (can be bad even if it doesn't appear to be leaking).
Was dealer that replaced clutch using exedy a Honda dealer???
Sent from my SM-G920P using IB AutoGroup
11-04-2015, 05:32 AM
#9
Proper clutch adjustment is 2 separate tasks.
Clutch pedal height
Clutch rod length (play)
You need to do them in above sequence. Most diy's on this site only focus onbthe second one. Often that is all that is needed (the pedal height doesn't change over time, really only need to set it once, whereas second one, play, does change with wear and needs to be redone from time to time).
But in your case you should make sure to do them both.
Sent from my SM-G920P using IB AutoGroup
Clutch pedal height
Clutch rod length (play)
You need to do them in above sequence. Most diy's on this site only focus onbthe second one. Often that is all that is needed (the pedal height doesn't change over time, really only need to set it once, whereas second one, play, does change with wear and needs to be redone from time to time).
But in your case you should make sure to do them both.
Sent from my SM-G920P using IB AutoGroup
11-09-2015, 01:26 PM
#10
So I decided to look at it again before pulling the transmission. I noticed a whisper coming from the transmission when the clutch pedal is pressed down and you're trying to shift into gear. I have a video of it and so please let me know what you think it could be.
https://youtu.be/hcB-eAnd_0o
https://youtu.be/hcB-eAnd_0o