Turbo Owners: Cooling the Engine Bay (FYI)
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Hi guys,
Rather than PM you all about this, I thought I'd post a thread. Maybe some of the N/A guys will find this worth reading.
I've long thought that our engine bays get too hot with the turbo spooled. I'm not really concerned about the heat soak problem -- the intercooler seems to bring the AIT's down to reasonable levels (85-90 degrees, based on Larry's last dyno) -- but the heat is high enough to be worrisome.
HeCash and others have suggested using air scoops mounted under the car, and while I like the idea, I wanted something I could install and forget about. I also don't want to be cutting holes in my hood, no matter how professional the job. (HeCash, your setup is brilliant -- just insufficiently stealth for my taste!)
So, here's what I've come up with. Yes, yes, I know that I now cannot use the faux brake ducts to actually run air to my brakes, but if that becomes a necessary mod, I'll look for other solutions. The grills are from Coastal Metals (their "Airflow System"). The ducting is a 2.5" replacement hose for a shop vac. from Home Depot! I'd have liked to go with a larger diameter hose, but I don't think 3" would fit without more work. Including the grills, it took about 3 hours, start to finish. Removing the bumper isn't necessary, but I did remove the underpaneling to gain access to behind the bumper.
Based on the airflow passed by my leaf blower (positioned six feet away from the car), the faux duct does a good job of funneling the air into the hose, and the pathway is straight enough that it flows through the hose cleanly into the engine bay. I'm pretty happy with how it turned out.
I hope this helps, if you're looking to address this problem. Also, if you've not already done so, you should consider sleeving your radiator hose with a larger diameter, slightly stiffer hose and removing the clip that holds it to the strut tower housing such that it is routed under the BOV rather than around it. My BOV rubbed on my hose, and several people (whom I trust) expressed concern about the contact eventually causing a ruptured radiator line.
Best,
CB
This is a shot of the grills...
This is a closeup of the air ducting on the passenger side...
And this is a shot of the ducting running into the engine bay...
Rather than PM you all about this, I thought I'd post a thread. Maybe some of the N/A guys will find this worth reading.
I've long thought that our engine bays get too hot with the turbo spooled. I'm not really concerned about the heat soak problem -- the intercooler seems to bring the AIT's down to reasonable levels (85-90 degrees, based on Larry's last dyno) -- but the heat is high enough to be worrisome.
HeCash and others have suggested using air scoops mounted under the car, and while I like the idea, I wanted something I could install and forget about. I also don't want to be cutting holes in my hood, no matter how professional the job. (HeCash, your setup is brilliant -- just insufficiently stealth for my taste!)
So, here's what I've come up with. Yes, yes, I know that I now cannot use the faux brake ducts to actually run air to my brakes, but if that becomes a necessary mod, I'll look for other solutions. The grills are from Coastal Metals (their "Airflow System"). The ducting is a 2.5" replacement hose for a shop vac. from Home Depot! I'd have liked to go with a larger diameter hose, but I don't think 3" would fit without more work. Including the grills, it took about 3 hours, start to finish. Removing the bumper isn't necessary, but I did remove the underpaneling to gain access to behind the bumper.
Based on the airflow passed by my leaf blower (positioned six feet away from the car), the faux duct does a good job of funneling the air into the hose, and the pathway is straight enough that it flows through the hose cleanly into the engine bay. I'm pretty happy with how it turned out.
I hope this helps, if you're looking to address this problem. Also, if you've not already done so, you should consider sleeving your radiator hose with a larger diameter, slightly stiffer hose and removing the clip that holds it to the strut tower housing such that it is routed under the BOV rather than around it. My BOV rubbed on my hose, and several people (whom I trust) expressed concern about the contact eventually causing a ruptured radiator line.
Best,
CB
This is a shot of the grills...
This is a closeup of the air ducting on the passenger side...
And this is a shot of the ducting running into the engine bay...
#2
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Apprently the turbonetics turbos release a lot of heat and it is very important to keep the temps down if you have FI. Thats why some people decide to spend tons of money on a GT dual ball bearing turbo from HKS or Garrett ect because they release less heat. This is a big concern for me Chris as I will be going FI in the late spring early summer. Hopefully some more knowledgeable owners will post (UL, cjb80 ect).
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Did you know that how air flows better than cold air?
It's been my understanding that you want the turbo side to be hot, and the intake side to be cool. That's why drag cars retard ignition timing when launching and doing burnouts. This will increase EGT temps and allow the turbo to spool alot better.
Anyways, going against what I just said, I have ordered a hood from Evolution which I expect will help alot on venting the exhaust side, however I don't expect that it will have that much of a difference.
I don't have too many comments about your setup, looks like it will shoot lots of air on the turbo!!!
Chris
It's been my understanding that you want the turbo side to be hot, and the intake side to be cool. That's why drag cars retard ignition timing when launching and doing burnouts. This will increase EGT temps and allow the turbo to spool alot better.
Anyways, going against what I just said, I have ordered a hood from Evolution which I expect will help alot on venting the exhaust side, however I don't expect that it will have that much of a difference.
I don't have too many comments about your setup, looks like it will shoot lots of air on the turbo!!!
Chris
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TenBlade, sure, feel free to PM me if you have any questions.
CJB, the ducting isn't intended to cool the turbo -- you'll notice that the air is actually directed over the top of the turbo at about the level of the hood. Instead, it's designed to help vent the very hot air generated by the turbo to keep things from getting too hot in the bay. I've already melted one of the yellow plastic clips that secures a brake line that runs along the firewall, and I've long worried that other plastic fittings and the wiring might be at risk. In any case, my guess is that there's no way that blowing modest amounts of ambiant air over the turbo is going to do anything to materially reduce the interior temperature of the turbo. The temperature differential between the hot exhaust gasses and the cool air's just too big!
CJB, the ducting isn't intended to cool the turbo -- you'll notice that the air is actually directed over the top of the turbo at about the level of the hood. Instead, it's designed to help vent the very hot air generated by the turbo to keep things from getting too hot in the bay. I've already melted one of the yellow plastic clips that secures a brake line that runs along the firewall, and I've long worried that other plastic fittings and the wiring might be at risk. In any case, my guess is that there's no way that blowing modest amounts of ambiant air over the turbo is going to do anything to materially reduce the interior temperature of the turbo. The temperature differential between the hot exhaust gasses and the cool air's just too big!
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