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The truth about 90w diff oil

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Old 08-11-2006, 09:23 AM
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There is an interesting 90w gear oil made for the rear diff in Subaru STIs. It is apparently synthetic and a single weight 90 oil. Costs about $22 quart though.

Ther oil comes in metal cans covered with Japanese writing so I can't tell you specifically what it says.
Old 08-11-2006, 11:52 AM
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XLevel Posted on Aug 11 2006, 06:15 PM
Is the consensus that the LE-607 should be used by itself in the diff?
Yes.
The additive in LE-607 is ALMASOL.
The LE-607 is ready-to-use.
(if it has been sitting on a shelf for a while => shake it!)

TubeDriver Posted on Aug 11 2006, 07:23 PM
There is an interesting 90w gear oil made for the rear diff in Subaru STIs. It is apparently synthetic and a single weight 90 oil. Costs about $22 quart though.

Ther oil comes in metal cans covered with Japanese writing so I can't tell you specifically what it says.
Post a picture of the label if possible
Not that I speak or read Japanses but others do.
Old 12-19-2006, 09:33 AM
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Question. Would it be safe to put the Redline light weight shockproof oil in my 01? Just got new gears.
Old 12-19-2006, 11:14 AM
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LightWeight Gear Oil - a 75W/80W GL-5 gear oil
designed to lubricate transmissions and transaxles which
recommend 80W GL-5 gear oils. It has excellent lowtemperature
flow which allows easier shifting when cold.
Also has good synchro compatibility. May be used to
obtain maximum power transfer in racing differentials
which do not see high temperatures.
If this is the stuff you are talking about, Redline LightWeight ShockProof, then I would say: "No".
Because it is SAE 80W and not SAE 90.
Just a little too thin IMO.

Honda Marine makes hypoid gear oil in SAE 90 GL-5 if you want to stick to Honda products, Mobil 1 75W-90 is an option or LE-607
Old 12-19-2006, 11:50 AM
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I live in Southern NJ and the temperature rarely goes below 10 deg F [and also rarely gets that low].

I put LE-607 in my diff this summer and plan to leave it there and drive with it all winter. I've heard a lot about not using it in cold weather but nobody has ever said how low is too low.

It's pour point [according to it's MSDS sheet] is -11 degrees F.

Would people [who knows about these things] like to express an opinion as to below what temp they think it would be unwise to use?
Old 12-20-2006, 03:47 AM
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trapper Posted on Dec 19 2006, 09:50 PM
Would people [who knows about these things] like to express an opinion
Is this a trick question?


A general rule of thumb is to select an oil that has a pour point of about 20F lower then your lowest anticipated ambient temperature.
With that in mind and looking at your temps +10F to -11F: you're allright.
Mobil 1 75W-90 has a pour point of -46C (-50F)
But.. Mobil 1 does NOT have ALMASOL

About that ALMASOL compared to Molybdenum Disulfide
Maximum Service Temperature
Old 12-20-2006, 06:22 AM
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when i first drive my car in the morning... sine i put redline in the lsd doesn't work until the oil is warmed up. so i'll spin the inside wheel for about a minute before the oil gets warm...

i might switch to something else
Old 12-20-2006, 06:35 AM
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Originally Posted by SpitfireS,Dec 20 2006, 07:47 AM
Is this a trick question?
It certainly wasn't intended to be. Most posts on the subject said it shouldn't be used below freezing.

That's 43F [+32-(-11)] above the pour point and I thought that it probably could be used safely somewhat lower than that. Your "20F differential" [no pun intended] rule of thumb was exactly what I was looking for.

Thanks
Old 10-04-2007, 02:50 AM
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Since viscosity SAE ratings have changed, I decided to add this link of gear oil SAE J306 specs to this thread. I think it is a good history summary of the change and well help explain why SAE weights and labels are changing (LE 607 to LE 1605 for example).

http://www.lubrizol.com/products/automotiv...ar-oil/J306.asp
Old 10-17-2007, 12:01 PM
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Just a note, my AP1 diff failed with LE607, but I think it would have been worse without it. Appears as if the dealer did an improper shimming of the pinion gear ~30k miles ago on a rebuild. (no launching, drifting, etc for me) The pinion gear is the only thing that broke, caps intact, ring intact. Flange bolts torqued with the force of Thor (had to be cut off) and thrust washer fused to the bearing.

So like I said, if anything, the 607 helped it from being even worse.
I plan on refilling the rebuilt diff (4.57s) with LE607.


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