Trunk Release Stopped Working
04-23-2009, 10:16 PM
#1
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Trunk Release Stopped Working
Yo. It recently stopped working about two weeks ago. I've ran some searches and came across some diagrams, but didn't understand what I was looking at. When I press the remote, which is the OEM remote, I hear something at the fuse box, but no luck. I checked the fuses that are down there at the panel and they're all fine. Is there a seperate trunk fuse that I need to look for? I also checked the wires in the trunk and everything is still connected. Please help. Opening the trunk with the key is a hassle.
Thank you,
David.
Thank you,
David.
04-24-2009, 06:04 AM
#2
Find the solenoid in the trunk that opens the latch and pull off the wiring connector. Use a cheap multimeter to probe the voltage on the wires while someone else hits the button. If you see a pulse, the wiring is fine and the solenoid has gone bad. If you don't see a pulse, you have an electrical issue - could be as simple as a fuse, or it could be bad wiring.
05-10-2010, 05:29 PM
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Just in case someone needs help with this problem, mine stopped working recently. Here's what I checked and what I fixed.
1. Fuse # 26 under the drivers side. It's the top one on the right side. 15 A Checked fine.
2. Fuse in the main panel under the hood. #34 I think. Checked fine.
3. Applied power to #1, ground #2 of the solenoid connector in the trunk. Looking at the connector # 1 is left, #2 in the middle. Positive is Black/yellow stripe. just a touch of power to the positive terminal should activate the solenoid. Checked fine.
4. Checked for power and ground at the connector coming from the wire loom. No power or ground when button is pressed.
5. Opened the wire loom where it snakes past the driver's side trunk hinge. It feeds into a larger loom near the rear deck. Both hot and ground pull out freely. Both are broken. Since my car is stock, it must be a design flaw. Opening and closing the trunk eventually caused the wires to break where it is wire wrapped really tight to keep it from moving.
The fix was as follows.
Cut the wire wrap under the rear deck. One black wire wrap holds it in place. Completely open the plastic duct over the four wires feeding from the corner panel to the trunk hinge enough to work on the splice. Bare all four ends 1/2 inch each. Cut two pieces of equivalent size wire 3" long. bare all four ends of the short pieces. Cut two pieces of shrink wrap long enough to cover both splice points with one piece. Slide one on each of the longer existing wires. The ones from the trunk were longer. Twist one pair at a time, solder then move to the next pair till all four splices are done. Test the trunk switch. If it works, and it should, slide the heat shrink up and heat it. Tuck the wires back into the loom. All done and it should look just like it did before.
Honda, calm down with the wire wrap. Way too tight.
1. Fuse # 26 under the drivers side. It's the top one on the right side. 15 A Checked fine.
2. Fuse in the main panel under the hood. #34 I think. Checked fine.
3. Applied power to #1, ground #2 of the solenoid connector in the trunk. Looking at the connector # 1 is left, #2 in the middle. Positive is Black/yellow stripe. just a touch of power to the positive terminal should activate the solenoid. Checked fine.
4. Checked for power and ground at the connector coming from the wire loom. No power or ground when button is pressed.
5. Opened the wire loom where it snakes past the driver's side trunk hinge. It feeds into a larger loom near the rear deck. Both hot and ground pull out freely. Both are broken. Since my car is stock, it must be a design flaw. Opening and closing the trunk eventually caused the wires to break where it is wire wrapped really tight to keep it from moving.
The fix was as follows.
Cut the wire wrap under the rear deck. One black wire wrap holds it in place. Completely open the plastic duct over the four wires feeding from the corner panel to the trunk hinge enough to work on the splice. Bare all four ends 1/2 inch each. Cut two pieces of equivalent size wire 3" long. bare all four ends of the short pieces. Cut two pieces of shrink wrap long enough to cover both splice points with one piece. Slide one on each of the longer existing wires. The ones from the trunk were longer. Twist one pair at a time, solder then move to the next pair till all four splices are done. Test the trunk switch. If it works, and it should, slide the heat shrink up and heat it. Tuck the wires back into the loom. All done and it should look just like it did before.
Honda, calm down with the wire wrap. Way too tight.
02-15-2011, 02:15 PM
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Originally Posted by wirejock,May 10 2010, 05:29 PM
Just in case someone needs help with this problem, mine stopped working recently. Here's what I checked and what I fixed.
1. Fuse # 26 under the drivers side. It's the top one on the right side. 15 A Checked fine.
2. Fuse in the main panel under the hood. #34 I think. Checked fine.
3. Applied power to #1, ground #2 of the solenoid connector in the trunk. Looking at the connector # 1 is left, #2 in the middle. Positive is Black/yellow stripe. just a touch of power to the positive terminal should activate the solenoid. Checked fine.
4. Checked for power and ground at the connector coming from the wire loom. No power or ground when button is pressed.
5. Opened the wire loom where it snakes past the driver's side trunk hinge. It feeds into a larger loom near the rear deck. Both hot and ground pull out freely. Both are broken. Since my car is stock, it must be a design flaw. Opening and closing the trunk eventually caused the wires to break where it is wire wrapped really tight to keep it from moving.
The fix was as follows.
Cut the wire wrap under the rear deck. One black wire wrap holds it in place. Completely open the plastic duct over the four wires feeding from the corner panel to the trunk hinge enough to work on the splice. Bare all four ends 1/2 inch each. Cut two pieces of equivalent size wire 3" long. bare all four ends of the short pieces. Cut two pieces of shrink wrap long enough to cover both splice points with one piece. Slide one on each of the longer existing wires. The ones from the trunk were longer. Twist one pair at a time, solder then move to the next pair till all four splices are done. Test the trunk switch. If it works, and it should, slide the heat shrink up and heat it. Tuck the wires back into the loom. All done and it should look just like it did before.
Honda, calm down with the wire wrap. Way too tight.
1. Fuse # 26 under the drivers side. It's the top one on the right side. 15 A Checked fine.
2. Fuse in the main panel under the hood. #34 I think. Checked fine.
3. Applied power to #1, ground #2 of the solenoid connector in the trunk. Looking at the connector # 1 is left, #2 in the middle. Positive is Black/yellow stripe. just a touch of power to the positive terminal should activate the solenoid. Checked fine.
4. Checked for power and ground at the connector coming from the wire loom. No power or ground when button is pressed.
5. Opened the wire loom where it snakes past the driver's side trunk hinge. It feeds into a larger loom near the rear deck. Both hot and ground pull out freely. Both are broken. Since my car is stock, it must be a design flaw. Opening and closing the trunk eventually caused the wires to break where it is wire wrapped really tight to keep it from moving.
The fix was as follows.
Cut the wire wrap under the rear deck. One black wire wrap holds it in place. Completely open the plastic duct over the four wires feeding from the corner panel to the trunk hinge enough to work on the splice. Bare all four ends 1/2 inch each. Cut two pieces of equivalent size wire 3" long. bare all four ends of the short pieces. Cut two pieces of shrink wrap long enough to cover both splice points with one piece. Slide one on each of the longer existing wires. The ones from the trunk were longer. Twist one pair at a time, solder then move to the next pair till all four splices are done. Test the trunk switch. If it works, and it should, slide the heat shrink up and heat it. Tuck the wires back into the loom. All done and it should look just like it did before.
Honda, calm down with the wire wrap. Way too tight.
09-12-2012, 01:42 PM
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Just in case someone needs help with this problem, mine stopped working recently. Here's what I checked and what I fixed.
1. Fuse # 26 under the drivers side. It's the top one on the right side. 15 A Checked fine.
2. Fuse in the main panel under the hood. #34 I think. Checked fine.
3. Applied power to #1, ground #2 of the solenoid connector in the trunk. Looking at the connector # 1 is left, #2 in the middle. Positive is Black/yellow stripe. just a touch of power to the positive terminal should activate the solenoid. Checked fine.
4. Checked for power and ground at the connector coming from the wire loom. No power or ground when button is pressed.
5. Opened the wire loom where it snakes past the driver's side trunk hinge. It feeds into a larger loom near the rear deck. Both hot and ground pull out freely. Both are broken. Since my car is stock, it must be a design flaw. Opening and closing the trunk eventually caused the wires to break where it is wire wrapped really tight to keep it from moving.
The fix was as follows.
Cut the wire wrap under the rear deck. One black wire wrap holds it in place. Completely open the plastic duct over the four wires feeding from the corner panel to the trunk hinge enough to work on the splice. Bare all four ends 1/2 inch each. Cut two pieces of equivalent size wire 3" long. bare all four ends of the short pieces. Cut two pieces of shrink wrap long enough to cover both splice points with one piece. Slide one on each of the longer existing wires. The ones from the trunk were longer. Twist one pair at a time, solder then move to the next pair till all four splices are done. Test the trunk switch. If it works, and it should, slide the heat shrink up and heat it. Tuck the wires back into the loom. All done and it should look just like it did before.
Honda, calm down with the wire wrap. Way too tight.
1. Fuse # 26 under the drivers side. It's the top one on the right side. 15 A Checked fine.
2. Fuse in the main panel under the hood. #34 I think. Checked fine.
3. Applied power to #1, ground #2 of the solenoid connector in the trunk. Looking at the connector # 1 is left, #2 in the middle. Positive is Black/yellow stripe. just a touch of power to the positive terminal should activate the solenoid. Checked fine.
4. Checked for power and ground at the connector coming from the wire loom. No power or ground when button is pressed.
5. Opened the wire loom where it snakes past the driver's side trunk hinge. It feeds into a larger loom near the rear deck. Both hot and ground pull out freely. Both are broken. Since my car is stock, it must be a design flaw. Opening and closing the trunk eventually caused the wires to break where it is wire wrapped really tight to keep it from moving.
The fix was as follows.
Cut the wire wrap under the rear deck. One black wire wrap holds it in place. Completely open the plastic duct over the four wires feeding from the corner panel to the trunk hinge enough to work on the splice. Bare all four ends 1/2 inch each. Cut two pieces of equivalent size wire 3" long. bare all four ends of the short pieces. Cut two pieces of shrink wrap long enough to cover both splice points with one piece. Slide one on each of the longer existing wires. The ones from the trunk were longer. Twist one pair at a time, solder then move to the next pair till all four splices are done. Test the trunk switch. If it works, and it should, slide the heat shrink up and heat it. Tuck the wires back into the loom. All done and it should look just like it did before.
Honda, calm down with the wire wrap. Way too tight.
09-12-2012, 01:56 PM
#7
This page should have the loom retainers you want....
http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/...BAND+-+BRACKET
http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/...BAND+-+BRACKET
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09-12-2012, 02:12 PM
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This page should have the loom retainers you want....
http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/...BAND+-+BRACKET
http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/...BAND+-+BRACKET
09-12-2012, 04:52 PM
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Sounds like it. Does it work to unlock the doors? Have you tried pressing it and holding it? Perhaps you're not pressing it long enough to actuate the light. Also, when you press the button you should be able to hear a click from the relay inside the dash if you're in the cabin.