Troubleshooting shocks - how to test
#1
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Troubleshooting shocks - how to test
My car is not lowered, stock wheels, and only xbrace, stb, and swaybar, with approximately 23K miles.
My front right coilover squeaks BADLY, all the time. The front left coilover squeaks about 50% of the amount and volume of the right one.
How can you tell if your shock is shot? Or going? Or needs to be replaced? I've had shocks go bad before, but that's when they totally break and there is no compression on the insides. But what about these?
My front right coilover squeaks BADLY, all the time. The front left coilover squeaks about 50% of the amount and volume of the right one.
How can you tell if your shock is shot? Or going? Or needs to be replaced? I've had shocks go bad before, but that's when they totally break and there is no compression on the insides. But what about these?
#2
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Shadetree test:
Compress the suspension near the suspect shock/strut. The suspension should compress, rebound, and stop. If it oscillates at all (or overshoots on the return) then you've got a bad shock/strut.
The most likely cause is some of the rubber in there (either the isolator or other bushings) are dry and rubbing on metal. If the shocks are OK (they should be) you can probably apply some WD40 to lubricate them, then some vaseline to help keep them lubricated and moisture out. This is, if you can get to what's squeaking!
Compress the suspension near the suspect shock/strut. The suspension should compress, rebound, and stop. If it oscillates at all (or overshoots on the return) then you've got a bad shock/strut.
The most likely cause is some of the rubber in there (either the isolator or other bushings) are dry and rubbing on metal. If the shocks are OK (they should be) you can probably apply some WD40 to lubricate them, then some vaseline to help keep them lubricated and moisture out. This is, if you can get to what's squeaking!
#4
Registered User
Good night, Jim! How often have you seen a "bent, cracked, or crushed rod?!"
I hope you don't find any of this- but the leakage check is a good point (do it before spraying with WD40!). If the strut leaks out, you'll lose performance exponentially.
Any particular reason you're worried about the struts? I've gotten 130k miles before out of stock Honda struts. The worst is to increase the spring rate, that beats them down pretty quick.
I hope you don't find any of this- but the leakage check is a good point (do it before spraying with WD40!). If the strut leaks out, you'll lose performance exponentially.
Any particular reason you're worried about the struts? I've gotten 130k miles before out of stock Honda struts. The worst is to increase the spring rate, that beats them down pretty quick.
#5
Randy, what sway bar you running?
Disconnect that bad boy and tie it up for a quick ride around the block to see if the noise is coming from it's mounts or the cheesy plastic tie rod ends.
Disconnect that bad boy and tie it up for a quick ride around the block to see if the noise is coming from it's mounts or the cheesy plastic tie rod ends.
#6
It was (assumed) shock fade that prompted me to buy my Koni's and it never showed up until late in a run session at the track.. or my third run on the Dragon with a passenger. No noise until I started to get more body roll and then it was a 'knocking noise' which I never identified but guessed it was swaybar or some other contact. Without removing and testing them I really do not think you can be sure if there is no visible damage. BTW, the Koni's were only a minor improvement with the stock springs, but very effective with the Comptech springs.
#7
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Originally posted by marcucci
Good night, Jim! How often have you seen a "bent, cracked, or crushed rod?!"
Good night, Jim! How often have you seen a "bent, cracked, or crushed rod?!"
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#8
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I'll give the suggestions a try over the next few days.
As for the Konis - Chris, I'm sure you know as well as I do, the shocks must match up to springs to work at optimal performance, otherwise they are useless. Very glad to hear they work well with the Comptech Springs.
BTW, What is different with the Koni's you had built and the yellows being sold specifically for the S? Can't remember which ones you had them build.
As for the Konis - Chris, I'm sure you know as well as I do, the shocks must match up to springs to work at optimal performance, otherwise they are useless. Very glad to hear they work well with the Comptech Springs.
BTW, What is different with the Koni's you had built and the yellows being sold specifically for the S? Can't remember which ones you had them build.
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