S2000 Under The Hood S2000 Technical and Mechanical discussions.

Trouble with coilovers

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Old 07-09-2009, 02:35 AM
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Default Trouble with coilovers

Hey all,
recently picked up some used tein flexs. They were pre set to a certain height and went on the car nicely. I hear a noise coming from the passenger rear side, sounds like something chattering. I took the wheel off and noticed that the spring sits loosely on the strut. The other side does not. I also tried lowering the car a tad more on both sides of the rear and I noticed that to have an equal drop I would have to lower the "perch" (or whatever its called) substantially lower on passenger side. I dont think this is the way it should be and its really bothering me.
So to recap, if I have both the rears set at the same adjustment, the drivers side tucks a bit more than the passenger, I dont think im suppose to have an unequal adjustment to have the same height, am I? Does the spring being "loose" have anything to do with this?
I apologize for my lack of proper terminology, Im new to the suspension aspect of this car.
Thanks in advance
Old 07-09-2009, 02:50 AM
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The spring should not be loose.

Tein Flex have separate spring pre-load and ride height adjustments. Sounds like the pre-load was not set evenly for all of the coilovers. Since you know one was not set up properly, I'd start from scratch and readjust all of them.

You should have received instructions with the used components, but if not, here are the basics, and you'd be well advised to have someone who knows about S2000 suspension setup to give you the specific settings for specific purposes (street, track, autocross, etc.).
With the suspension completely unloaded, use the special spanners (I hope that you did receive these) to set the same amount of pre-load on each spring. For my Miata it's not very much, maybe one half turn past initial contact, but I don't know what you'd want for the S2000. Pre-load is adjusted using the top two locking rings that form the spring perch. Next, adjust ride height by loosening the bottom locking ring and turning the entire shock body to get the ride height you desire. Don't go too low or you'll run out of suspension travel.
Old 07-09-2009, 03:26 AM
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I'm a bit confused. There's a total of 3 locking rings, right? 2 that touch, that seem to raise and lower the spring, and 1 at the very bottom that I noticed by moving, turns the whole shock. Which one do I do? Also I need to remove the coilovers from the car?
Old 07-09-2009, 05:31 AM
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The two that touch lock against each other and are used to set spring pre-load. They should be be the same on all four corners. It sounds like there is no pre-load on at least one corner (spring is rattling loose), so I'd double check them all and set them all to the same amount. Once the pre-load is set correctly with the upper-most of the two rings, lock them together to hold the setting.

Next, loosen the bottom ring, and adjust your ride height by rotating the shock body.

In order to do this, the suspension will need to be unloaded (car supported by the chassis on a lift or jack stands). Then load the suspension to check ride height (roll the car and bounce it a little), and readjust as necessary.

If you're not sure about how to do this, perhaps someone in your area could help out. I'm in South Broward and have some free time next week.
Old 07-09-2009, 06:49 AM
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Originally Posted by CoralDoc,Jul 9 2009, 05:31 AM
The two that touch lock against each other and are used to set spring pre-load. They should be be the same on all four corners. It sounds like there is no pre-load on at least one corner (spring is rattling loose), so I'd double check them all and set them all to the same amount. Once the pre-load is set correctly with the upper-most of the two rings, lock them together to hold the setting.

Next, loosen the bottom ring, and adjust your ride height by rotating the shock body.

In order to do this, the suspension will need to be unloaded (car supported by the chassis on a lift or jack stands). Then load the suspension to check ride height (roll the car and bounce it a little), and readjust as necessary.

If you're not sure about how to do this, perhaps someone in your area could help out. I'm in South Broward and have some free time next week.
That would be awesome. I'll try it out today when I get off work. So should the lowest ring be loose after I move it up? It's all the way on the bottom now and don't see how it could get tight after. Can u PM me your number?
Old 07-09-2009, 07:58 AM
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Loosen the lowest locking ring by screwing it up the shock body. Then, adjust the shock body up or down to the location you want, and tighten the locking ring. It doesn't take a lot of force, but it does need to be locked down to prevent unwanted movement.

Note that it took me a couple hours to properly set up my car, so be sure to give yourself enough time to do it right.

PM sent.
Old 07-09-2009, 12:18 PM
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I'm having some bad luck with this! Jacked up the car, had 1 wheel off. Jacked up the other side with an older Honda Jack. Kind if hesitated as I tried jacking it up, had to use a lot of elbow grease. So both sides are jacked up and as I'm about to go and take the other wheel off the car, slowly starts to tilt forward and SLAM!!!! Right on the ground. Couldn't believe it. I just froze and stared for a few seconds, panicked, then started to Jack the car up from the only place I could, near the rotor by the hub. God i'm pissed, drove the car around and seems ok. Only had it about half an inch from the bottom of the tire to the ground so it didn't fall that hard.
Anyways about the shocks, I measured as best as could and had them pretty even, I was even able to tighten the spring so it didn't wobble. But, when I lowered the car back down I noticed the driver side still sits a tad lower! But when I measured the distance from the bottom of the fender to the center of the wheel, it seemed about even. Now I'm wondering if this is a alignment/cAmber issue. PLUS I can still heAr a light clunking from the spring. WTF!
Old 07-09-2009, 12:23 PM
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wow. chock the wheels next time.
Old 07-09-2009, 02:40 PM
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Yeah it's now chocked lol.
I think the problem may lie in needing an alignment. The driver side tire is closer angled to the inside fender, as to where the other side is a bit further off. I think that instead of trying to lower the one side to compensate, I should get alignment. What do you guys think?
Old 07-09-2009, 04:11 PM
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set ride height (and corner balance) first then align.

you can measure ride height from the ground to a point on the chassis. like where the lower control arm connects to the chassis. but since that's difficult to do in your garage without a pit, you can also use the fender wheel well arch, or maybe even the jacking point.

and when you do your alignment, try to find a place that aligns racecars instead of one of the chain stores.


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