Race Miata

I was talking about some freeplay to not constantly load the release bearing, not freeplay between pushrod and piston. I'm not sure what you mean by 1.5" at the pedal. And I don't think there should be any freeplay in the hydraulics part of any hydraulic system. The "freeplay" before loading the release bearing is the mechanical freeplay between the release bearing and the PP diaphram spring. We don't want the release bearing touching the PP diaphram spring all the time.

Race Miata

If you had to adjust the rod to the extreme end to be able to shift into gear while engine was running but car was stopped, I was almost going to bet that the clutch pedal height to get the car moving would be close to the floor as I was going to bet that it would be a hydraulics problem (because a clutch assembly problem is relatively less common and it usually shows other problems at the same time like clutch chattering or unusally stiff/sticky clutch pedal feel). However, the fact that the clutch engaging point is high suggests that you might indeed have a clutch assembly problem (like I said, probably a warped disc, broken hub, etc. which is rare compare to clutch hydraulics problem).

Since any further diagnostics on the clutch assembly require pulling the tranny, I would make absolutely sure that it's indeed not hydraulics problem or tranny fluid problem. Have you followed what xviper suggested about checking the clutch hydraulics? Have you followed what he suggested in his first post about changing out the transmission fluid? These are easier to check than removing the tranny.

Goldtrom

Hi All,

I've checked all the fluids. The tranny fluid is brand new (changed it a month back). I don't have the equipement/time to pull the tranny, so off to the dealer with it! I'm dropping it off tomorrow. Hope they don't screw me too much .

Thanks everyone for your help!

Rob

Jay2000

Can this really do harm, I always sit at lights with the clutch pushed to the floor, I still have the original clutch in my 92 integra with 145k on it. Hard 145k on it. no clutchj drops but lots of racing and back road driving?

RED MX5

When you are stopped and have the clutch depressed, the throwout bearing is loaded and spinning at engine speed, which causes unnecessary throwout bearing wear. How long will the throwout bearing last, given that additional wear? I wouldn't know, because I don't hold the clutch in when stopped, but your experience seems to indicate that at least with some cars they last a very long time even if they're "abused."

In cars with heavy clutches it also abuses the left leg.

slalom44

It's much harder on your throwout bearing to rev the engine with the clutch pedal pressed. You can't get in there to lubricate this bearing so if it dries out, it will eventually fail. The more abuse it gets, the greater the chances of failure. Riding the clutch while stopped at lights isn't a guaranteed disaster but if you absolutely don't want to have to drop the tranny before the clutch wears out it's a good idea to take it easy on the throwout bearing. If you do a search, you will find that some members weren't as fortunate. If you got 145,000 miles on your 'Teg clutch, you're doing something right.

My point above was that if you keep your foot on the clutch, the output shaft doesn't move at all and if your synchro teeth aren't exactly lined up you will sometimes find it hard to put it into gear. I often have this problem when starting my '95 Corolla - with the clutch depressed, sometimes I can't find first without double clutching when the engine is cold.

Race Miata

Wearing out the clutch release bearing is not the biggest concern. Wearing out the thrust bearing inside the engine (that stops the crank from walking) should be. The least of the problem include excessive crank walk while in the extreme case the thrust bearing may spin out of place.

tortan

sounds like worn synchros. you let the clutch out in neutral and hit the gas, the syncros turn, then you can disengage the clutch and stick it in gear.

xviper

You are talking about "double clutching". This is something you would do when attempting to downshift into 1st gear at a relatively high road speed (for 1st). The original poster isn't having this problem. He's having a problem with getting it into gear when sitting still. If he did what you suggested from a standstill, yes, he would spin up his tranny. This is NOT what you want to do if you want to engage 1st easily from a stop. In fact, what you really want to do in this scenario, is to STOP the tranny from spinning before trying to engage first. His problem is most likely that he CANNOT stop his tranny from spinning when he pushes the clutch in and the spinning tranny (when stopped) is what is making it difficult to go into gear.
It is commonly noted that people who sit in neutral (like waiting at a light or warming up) with the clutch out and then suddenly putting the clutch down and immediately throwing it into 1st will make a "clunk" in the drivetrain. What that clunk is, is the tranny coming to a sudden halt because the drivetrain downstream of the tranny is not moving. That clunk is telling you that you've just worked your syncros even harder.

Billman250

The freeplay is in the hydraulics. When you push the pedal that first inch or two, fluid will squirt up into the master through the pin hole. This hole is the fluid supply hole, but it is also set in such a position to relieve all pressure when the pedal is fully released.