xviper

Well, begin at the beginning.
1. Clutch reservoir and master cylinder. Level good? Any sign of leakage?
2. Fluid good. No air?
3. Slave cylinder. Leaks? How's the ball and socket fitting? This is the ball on the end of the slave plunger that mates with the socket in the end of the release fork. Some have noted that this has become dislodged.

The rest is all inside and is not a visually inspection. Check for clutch slippage or clutch drag. This may give a clue as to the condition of the clutch disc, flywheel, throw out bearing.

Race Miata

I'd still like to know how high up with the pedal to get the car moving? If it's almost to the floor, my bet is on the hydraulics. If it's high up (like a good few inches from the floor), I would tend to think something is wrong with the clutch assembly which is unlikely but it does happen. ...something like a warped clutch disc, a broken clutch disc hub, etc. but like I said it's rare.

slalom44

Do you keep your clutch pedal presseed down when you sit at the light? If so, this might be part of your problem. You should not ride your clutch when stopped at lights. Besides being very hard on your throwout bearing, you may not be able to get the synchro to mesh because it can't line up.

You might try double clutching - let go of the pedal for a moment, then pressing it again. Then try shifting it into gear. If you're not riding the clutch, disregard this.

Goldtrom

Race:

The clutch engagment is pretty high. I'd say its a few inches.....

Slalom:

I don't keep the clutch in... Unless I know it will be < 1 minute at the light...

I checked the fluid again... The fluid is already blackish grey and I just changed it like 4 days ago!

I looked for leaks. I don't see any. Where exactly do I look?

Thanks!
Rob

Race Miata

It's normal to see clutch fluid turns grey in 4 days if you haven't done fluid change for quite a while.

It sounds like you adjusted the pushrod to its extreme end. I don't recommend driving with the pushrod adjusted that way. The release bearing is most likely loaded all the time. This is like riding the clutch all the time.

I was expecting you to adjust the pushrod a bit at a time until you're able to shift into gear smoothly with the engine running but car stopped. Because your adjustment is at so extreme end, it's almost gauranteed that the clutch engagement point is at least a good few inches from the floor whether it's hydraulic problem or clutch assembly problem.

I would say adjust the pushrod back such that there's at least some freeplay up top as soon as possible whether you keep driving the car or take it to the shop. Let us know how high the clutch engages after the adjustment.

Saboten

Does the problem go away when you have driven it for about 20 mins?

What are the temps where you live. I know when my transmission is cold, it takes forever to get into first gear from a stop.

Billman250

There is only ONE correct setting for the clutch rod. ZERO freeplay between the rod and the master piston. This will leave you with about 1.5 inches at the pedal, which is the built in hydraulic freeplay in the master.

I currenty have over 300 s2k's with this setup and they all shift they way they are supposed to.

freq

301, I did my own work at your recommendation.

Billman250

I'd like to do a write up on this, but pics will be difficult...

Goldtrom

What does "Zero free play" mean? The rod should be at its extreme end? We are talking about the rod that goes into the master cylinder right?

I've adjusted mine so that the end facing the driver is flush with the threads on the clutch pedal... Seemed to help, but not elimnate the problem.... I tried adjusting it a little at bit, but it made no difference till I got to the end and couldn't turn the rod any more...

Thanks!
-- Rob