alSpeed2k

If this is the case, try changing the clutch fluid and adjusting the clutch rod.

INDYMAC

I agree that clutch fluid (fresh with no air bubbles) is just as important as fresh MTF.

Also, as a reminder to everyone that is a DIY'er, make sure you tumble/mix the MTF's before you pump them into the tranny. Some of these bottles have sat on a shelf for years before being sold. Mine even sit for awhile in my garage before I use them. The additives tend to settle to the bottom of the bottle (I noticed this the first time I tried MTF II). It's no big deal on the first quart, since you use all of it. But you won't use all of the second quart.

starchland

Good point for all fluids. Saw the uoa over at bitog the day you put it up. thanks for the info. It wasnt my imagination, as it seemed after a few thousand km and a good day of driving (10 hrs) the fluid felt as if it had thinned out a bit (louder tranny). the MTF 2 is cheap, so I dont mind changing it out once a season.

mtf 1 may be thicker visc. but it cant be much different than those with sheared down tranny fluid that has never been changed!

INDYMAC

I'm actually thinking about trying a 10W-30 engine oil next. I have two quarts of Schaeffers 7000 Supreme in the garage looking for a home. It has a 1a copper corrosion rating, so it shouldn't hurt the synchros. If it doesn't go well, I'll just go back to MTF II.

starchland

synthetic would be better no? what about mtf 3 any info on that?

INDYMAC

Not sure whether synthetic is better than conventional in this application. But I'm optimistic that the Schaeffer's synthetic blend will shear to a high 20W in short order. It's energy conserving rated after all, and it has sheared in the engines that I've run it in. I like the low TAN that it should show though. MTF II TAN starts at 3.7 and rose to 4.0 on my UOA. That's too high IMO.

I have not heard about MTF III. Is it out now?

starchland

Is there room for an impact?

You need a real breaker bar, a pvc pipe will flex so its kinda pointless in trying to apply any torque

Kyushin

I had my car jacked up pretty high on the drivers side and it never over flowed out the fill hole. I know I definitely got atleast 1.4-1.5L in there, I knocked over a bottle while filling but it didnt seem that too much came out.

Super simple job, but the pump is the cornerstone is doing this job, cant fill without it!!

Gloffer

[QUOTE=Disgustipated,Aug 9 2010, 07:10 PM] Wow, I feel really stupid but I can't get the fill bolt off. This is my first time changing my S2000 transmission fluid. I'm using a 17mm with a socket wrench and tried using a PVC pipe as an extension to snap it off... just not working. I'm turning it counter-clockwise, as I'm pretty sure the bolt is normal thread.

What am I doing wrong? Do I need to get an impact hammer or something? HELP!

INTJ

Make sure you have a bag of washers. The short sharp impact is the key to removing any bolt or nut. Air tool is better if you have one. If you use hand tools it is easy to strip. And, at least the dealer bothered to torque, mine don't care if it falls offfffff.