S2000 Under The Hood S2000 Technical and Mechanical discussions.

transmission or clutch?

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Old 04-15-2017, 05:29 PM
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Default transmission or clutch?

was at the track, during the session i did smell either the rubber or clutch burning smell and towards the end of a session, i noticed it was extremely difficult to downshift into 4th gear. (never had that issue but i did had occasional issues shifting into second but it did not put it in gear on the street, and reverse sometimes can be hard to put in gear)

drove around the paddock and noticed this, if im stopped and i put it in first gear or any gear , i will hear a whine but as soon as i give it gas and start picking up speed it goes away. everything shifts smooth but sometimes it will be hard to put it in gears either up or down shift.

i made it home without issues but on one occassion i was having issues not being able to down shift it into any gear at all even after double clutching, i know if i forced it in, it would have grinded. Luckily i was near by my house on a local street so i coasted in neutral and pulled over. i was able to put it in first and upshift without issues and i eventually made it back home.

transmission fluid was replaced with motul before track day, clutch master cylinder is full , not empty. im not sure based on what i described if someone can tell me what kind of problems am i looking at.
Old 04-15-2017, 05:42 PM
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Sounds like a clutch issue to me. Wouldn't hurt to try and bleed the clutch system. It could help rule out a faulty master or slave cylinder.
Old 04-15-2017, 09:51 PM
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Might be a worn throw out bearing. It's hard to pin point.
Old 04-16-2017, 05:32 PM
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What kind of clutch is it?

Is the freeplay properly adjusted?

What type of fluid is in the CMC and how old is it?
Old 04-16-2017, 07:34 PM
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should be oem clutch

free play is properly adjusted based on billman's thread

i had typ 200 in the CMC. didnt do a full flush, just sucked it out from the top twice, looks medium dark yellow now

i do believe my cmc may have a small leak since before i did the top side cmc fluid change, it looked rather low.
Old 04-17-2017, 08:36 AM
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If you flushed MC reservoir twice, and fluid is still ugly:

1. You need to flush it all and start fresh. Gravity bleed till fresh fluid comes out. This will also ensure no air. From now on, turkey baster reservoir with each oil change, and fluid will stay good. Make sure not to let reservoir run dry during bleed process.

2. Dirty fluid causes leaks, which often go away once fluid is clean. I bet your leak goes away once you do 1 above.

Your description sounds like two issues to me. One, clutch not fully disengaging, so difficulty shifting (which above hopefully resolves). Two, a whine from gearbox, which sounds like a trans bearing. Keep monitoring, may have a bearimg replacement in your future.
Old 04-17-2017, 08:47 AM
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Originally Posted by Car Analogy
If you flushed MC reservoir twice, and fluid is still ugly:

1. You need to flush it all and start fresh. Gravity bleed till fresh fluid comes out. This will also ensure no air. From now on, turkey baster reservoir with each oil change, and fluid will stay good. Make sure not to let reservoir run dry during bleed process.

2. Dirty fluid causes leaks, which often go away once fluid is clean. I bet your leak goes away once you do 1 above.

Your description sounds like two issues to me. One, clutch not fully disengaging, so difficulty shifting (which above hopefully resolves). Two, a whine from gearbox, which sounds like a trans bearing. Keep monitoring, may have a bearimg replacement in your future.

thanks for responding, yea i will do a full clutch fluid flush this weekend when i get a chance to see if it helps. i m out of typ 200, can i just use any dot3/dot4 brake fluid. i m assuming, it doesnt really matter for clutch fluid.

i'll be taking the car to the shop when i get a chance to find out what's wrong.
Old 04-17-2017, 06:09 PM
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Yes, dot 3 or dot 4 for clutch. Yes, its not as demanding an application as brakes, so things that make for great brake fluid, such as high boiling point, etc, isn't really needed for clutch.

I like ate for brakes, and whatever dot 4 I can find on the shelf locally for clutch (since I use the dot 4 for brakes in the rest of the fleet).
Old 04-19-2017, 08:32 PM
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ok bled the clutch system using gravity bleed method

adjusted clutch rod to zero free play based on billman's thread

the noise is still there when i put it in gear from a stop and goes away slowly when picking up speed, still have the issue of downshifting if at a decent speed (it will not going to any gear at 50mph +), not much issues downshifting into a gear at slow speed of 10~20mph

shifting was much smoother, it's probably due to the rod adjustment

during my short test drive (5 minutes) my clutch pedal suddenly gone soft and it was hard to put it into any gears. clutch engagement point dropped very low. it took a couple tries to eventually get it in first gear from a complete stop.

i wasnt too far away from home so i still made it up into the garage.

i smelled a weird burning smell after the car was parked

err maybe i introduced air after the clutch bleed?
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