Tranny fill bolt spinning
12-03-2008, 02:52 AM
#22
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sightly2ned- It doesnt make any dif what the fil plug is made out of.. Dont go looking for an aluminum bolt, that is just silly. If you pull the new plug you have out that is leaking and add a little rtv to the threads you will solve your small leak problem.. Ensure that the plug and hole are oil free before applying RTV or you will be wasting your time. I can hear it now..... No, the RTV will not make the plug permanently installed.. It is weaker than blue locktite.
jyeung528 - It appears to me that the technician that stripped his bolt is very inexperienced and likely just left the extra shavings in the transmission or maybe at most flushed the tranny.. I have found that in a place where you dont have a choice but to cut with a tap and let shavings fall you can use copper anti seize gooped in the grooves of the tap and it will catch much of the metal that will be cut off. Drilling do the same only pull the drill out after every 3 secs of cutting and clean, re apply antiseize.
Where is Tempe City?? IF you are close, I can just weld it for you if you pull the tranny out and we can fix it right..
jyeung528 - It appears to me that the technician that stripped his bolt is very inexperienced and likely just left the extra shavings in the transmission or maybe at most flushed the tranny.. I have found that in a place where you dont have a choice but to cut with a tap and let shavings fall you can use copper anti seize gooped in the grooves of the tap and it will catch much of the metal that will be cut off. Drilling do the same only pull the drill out after every 3 secs of cutting and clean, re apply antiseize.
Where is Tempe City?? IF you are close, I can just weld it for you if you pull the tranny out and we can fix it right..
12-03-2008, 08:52 AM
#23
Originally Posted by jyeung528,Dec 1 2008, 02:22 PM
^
couldn't fit the torque wrench in there so I decided to over-estimate 33 ft/lb rather than under-estimate.
after a few hits with the rubber hammer, i may have it as high as 50 ft/lb. the new washer looked like it could a good buffer for preventing damage...
couldn't fit the torque wrench in there so I decided to over-estimate 33 ft/lb rather than under-estimate.
after a few hits with the rubber hammer, i may have it as high as 50 ft/lb. the new washer looked like it could a good buffer for preventing damage...
If you can't get a torque wrench under the car, the easiest way is to snug the bolt to the washer with your fingers, then give it another 1/8 turn or so. As soon as you see or feel the soft crush washer start to compress, you're done.
12-03-2008, 09:03 AM
#24
Registered User
^
you mean overestimate.
and it's the fill bolt that takes 33#
the drain bolt is spec'd at 29#
i know i tightened it too much, but it felt better than worrying that it wasn't tight enough.
then i read this thread and got a little paranoid. i won't make it too tight next time.
you mean overestimate.
and it's the fill bolt that takes 33#
the drain bolt is spec'd at 29#
i know i tightened it too much, but it felt better than worrying that it wasn't tight enough.
then i read this thread and got a little paranoid. i won't make it too tight next time.
12-03-2008, 09:19 AM
#25
Not sure if its been recommended but you can get a rubber plug. Worked fine for my old pt cruiser when the oil pan was stripped. Put the plug in and turn it, it widens the plug so that it would be a tight fit. Never leaked oil.
Cost around 4-5 dollars if I remember correctly
Cost around 4-5 dollars if I remember correctly
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