Tranny fill bolt spinning
12-01-2008, 03:07 AM
#11
There have been several inexperienced owners tightening their fill bolts with a torque wrench and overtightening and stripping. Just snug the bolt with a wrench and avoid the nightmares.
12-01-2008, 09:52 AM
#12
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This cant possibly be serious.. ??!!?!?!!!?
In case you are serious:
1: Get the old plug out. (put scraper under plug and turn out while prying up on scraper)
2: Go to parts store and get the next size bigger plug, get a matching tap, correct drill for the tap size and and tap wrench.
3: To ensure none of the metal shavings get into the gears/bearings you will need to drop the transmission and pull the case apart so you can remove the metal that will fall inside. (unless you wanna pay the price of a new one in a few thousand)
4: Once the hole is drilled and tapped, clean the shavings off with a brake cleaner or any evaporating liquid spray.
5: Reinstall the tranny and fill with fluid.
6: When installing new plug do not tighten more than snug..
If it were me I would pull the tranny and as a punishment for stripping the bolt I would Heliarc the hole shut and re-drill and tap to original size. but thats just me.. Good luck.. BTW I wouldnt count on getting it fixed for less than $500 total.. Just a heads up.
Sorry errors in txt needed fixed
In case you are serious:
1: Get the old plug out. (put scraper under plug and turn out while prying up on scraper)
2: Go to parts store and get the next size bigger plug, get a matching tap, correct drill for the tap size and and tap wrench.
3: To ensure none of the metal shavings get into the gears/bearings you will need to drop the transmission and pull the case apart so you can remove the metal that will fall inside. (unless you wanna pay the price of a new one in a few thousand)
4: Once the hole is drilled and tapped, clean the shavings off with a brake cleaner or any evaporating liquid spray.
5: Reinstall the tranny and fill with fluid.
6: When installing new plug do not tighten more than snug..
If it were me I would pull the tranny and as a punishment for stripping the bolt I would Heliarc the hole shut and re-drill and tap to original size. but thats just me.. Good luck.. BTW I wouldnt count on getting it fixed for less than $500 total.. Just a heads up.
Sorry errors in txt needed fixed
12-01-2008, 09:54 AM
#13
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great...reading this has got me worried.
i used a wrench and a rubber hammer to tighten it. i estimate it's at about 45 ft/lb...
i figure with the washer there, it would take at least 70-80 ft/lb to damage the thread?
i used a wrench and a rubber hammer to tighten it. i estimate it's at about 45 ft/lb...
i figure with the washer there, it would take at least 70-80 ft/lb to damage the thread?
12-01-2008, 10:22 AM
#15
Registered User
^
couldn't fit the torque wrench in there so I decided to over-estimate 33 ft/lb rather than under-estimate.
after a few hits with the rubber hammer, i may have it as high as 50 ft/lb. the new washer looked like it could a good buffer for preventing damage...
couldn't fit the torque wrench in there so I decided to over-estimate 33 ft/lb rather than under-estimate.
after a few hits with the rubber hammer, i may have it as high as 50 ft/lb. the new washer looked like it could a good buffer for preventing damage...
12-01-2008, 11:06 AM
#16
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If it was me i would retap it and use a shop vac to suck the shavings while doing it. Then just keep flushing the tranny to make sure you dont have shavings in there.
12-01-2008, 05:10 PM
#17
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Oh man, when you do your oil change, try to get a "feel" for how hard you push the tq wrench to get to 30 some odd pounds, then mimic that as best you can when tightening the trans fill bolt. The drain bolt is more of a concern anyway...
I painfuly remember reading a post form a guy who overtightened the fill bolt so much that it cracked the trans case!!!
I painfuly remember reading a post form a guy who overtightened the fill bolt so much that it cracked the trans case!!!
12-01-2008, 06:41 PM
#18
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wrap the fudge outta the drain bolt with thread tape and reinstall untill it gets to that "tight" spot.
ditch the plans for the new rims and save up for a proper repair.
in the mean time check the plug every time you get in the car to drive.
ditch the plans for the new rims and save up for a proper repair.
in the mean time check the plug every time you get in the car to drive.
12-01-2008, 10:40 PM
#19
:{Ghetto engineering on}
As an alternative, try a 3/8 NPT tapered plug, with thread tape. Even though 3/8 inch sounds too small, the pipe thread standard refers to the size of the hole in the centre of the pipe fittings. A 3/8 NPT is close to a 18mm hole size, a 1/2 NPT is close to a 21mm hole. They look like a giant grub screw with an allen key hole in the back of them.
The tapered plug gets wider as you wind it in more. Just be careful not to keep winding it till it dissappears into the gearbox. Once it tightens up, give it a little gronk (technical term) and leave it. If you haul on it hard the taper will crack the casing.
Make sure you get a tapered plug, and not a parallel one. You can sometimes get brass plugs with a 6 sided bolt head from plumbing or hydraulic hose shops as well with the same thread.
:{Ghetto engineering off}
Good luck.
As an alternative, try a 3/8 NPT tapered plug, with thread tape. Even though 3/8 inch sounds too small, the pipe thread standard refers to the size of the hole in the centre of the pipe fittings. A 3/8 NPT is close to a 18mm hole size, a 1/2 NPT is close to a 21mm hole. They look like a giant grub screw with an allen key hole in the back of them.
The tapered plug gets wider as you wind it in more. Just be careful not to keep winding it till it dissappears into the gearbox. Once it tightens up, give it a little gronk (technical term) and leave it. If you haul on it hard the taper will crack the casing.
Make sure you get a tapered plug, and not a parallel one. You can sometimes get brass plugs with a 6 sided bolt head from plumbing or hydraulic hose shops as well with the same thread.
:{Ghetto engineering off}
Good luck.
12-02-2008, 11:53 AM
#20
I have this same problem as a mechanic destroyed my tranny fill hole bolt (broke off 2-3 threads on the end & stripped the remaining threads) . He attempted to retap it to a larger size (tapered) & replace the bolt with a domestic tranny bolt in stainless steel; but this did not resolve the issue.
I still have a leak coming out of the fill hole. I believe it is because the bolt used to secure it is not of the same properties or at least close to the aluminum transmistion. I am trying to find another bolt of similar material property in hopes this will resolve the issue.
Let me know what you end up doing, as all other methods I found are costly.
I still have a leak coming out of the fill hole. I believe it is because the bolt used to secure it is not of the same properties or at least close to the aluminum transmistion. I am trying to find another bolt of similar material property in hopes this will resolve the issue.
Let me know what you end up doing, as all other methods I found are costly.