124Spider

Hi,

I have a trailer hitch for tires/tools for track and autocross, with a wiring harness for the trailer's lights.

My cruise control automatically shuts off when I engage a turn-signal indicator. I don't know if this behavior pre-dates the wiring for the trailer or not (I've had the trailer for three years, and I rarely use the cruise control, so I just don't remember), so I thought I'd ask if this is normal for the AP2 S2000.

Thanks!

--Mark

mikegarrison

Mark, it has never done that for me, but I have an AP1. Since our trailer wires were hooked up by the same guy, I thought this might be relevant.

Do you have anything else wired in to your cruise control or turn signals at all? Maybe some Modifried hack?

CoralDoc

That problem never occured in my car either. However, I used a powered tail light converter. It draws from the battery to power the trailer lights rather than tapping directly to the tail light wiring.

Stratocaster

We just had someone trace it down. Turns out the wiring adapter used casued the same problems for this owners. Here is a link to the thread.

http://forums.s2kca.com/showthread.php?t=2...ht=Trailer+Wire

mikegarrison

Doh! Yeah, I forgot the brakes shut off the cruise control. It seems from that thread that what is happening is there is a bleed in the 5-to-4 harness that is energizing the car brakelight circuit when the turn signals are used. The cruise control must be looking at the brake light circuit for the signal to shut off.

I guess this could happen to me too, but so far it hasn't.

124Spider

Thanks, guys. I'll see what can be done about it.

Mike, I have a bunch of Modifry stuff, but I don't think that any of them attach to the cruise control.

jeallen

I'ved added trailer wiring twice. I had no problems with the converter I bought from Uhaul on my AP1, but the Hopkins (Hoppy) converter on my AP2 allowed enough bleed between the the turn and brake circuits to cancel my criuse.

The Hoppy unit (48925) was around $25 at AutoZone, so I was disappointed that a product at this price point would have this problem. (this is the same as the 119176/86 units sold with Drawtite's labeling)

I added two diodes (in parallel) in series with the brake light input of the converter to solve the problem. I used two because I was concerned about the current draw of the lights. Looking at the specs on a 1N4001 diode now, one would probably be sufficient. Only the current to the brake lights on the trailer is going through the diode. Using two in parallel cuts the forward resistance in half and doubles the current handling capability.

I had the diodes already, but we're talking about maybe .50 worth of parts and heatshrink tubing.

text diagram (stripe on diode goes toward the input of the converter):
>from brake lights ----[diodes]---- brake light input-- [converter] --- output to trailer

jvf1

I don't have a cruise control issue (yet), but I do have a trailer wiring issue...

I hooked up my 5 to 4 wire trailer harness last night and was testing the lights.
Right and left turn signals work fine.
Brake lights work fine.
When I turned on the running lights, nothing.
I think I heard a faint snap when I first turned the lights on so I thought I had blown a fuse.
I checked the 10A running light fuse and it was fine. I changed it anyway just in case, but no luck.
Now my running lights don't work with or without the trailer connected.
Anybody have any suggestions?