torsen lsd taken apart

Reply Subscribe

Thread Tools

03-06-2007, 09:48 PM

#11

mikegarrison

Registered User

Join Date: Apr 2003

Location: Covington WA, USA

Posts: 22,888

Likes: 0

Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts

Quote:

Originally Posted by silencertk,Mar 6 2007, 07:58 PM

So i picked up the used diff out of a burnt S2000 on saturday.
Sunday, i took it to the shop, opend it up, took out all 3 melted seals and proceeded to clean it in the high pressure parts washer. Cooked lube smells gross by the way.
Everything was in good working order, turned fine, lsd was working.

So as i said, cleaned it in the parts washer, dried it all up, cleaned the housing out and so on. Bolted it back together as the shop was closed monday.
Today, the glorious tuesday i get to the shop, put the new seals in, slap some rtv around the housing and put the diff back together

pop the propshafts in and fill it up with gear oil. I go to spin it holding one propshaft

it locks up?!
it will go about one revolution forward and then lock up and only spin under extrem torque. Both together will spin but seperatly the will not. its like a posi (or whatever you call it) it's like they're stuck and only when trying to spin them extremly harsh they move. feels like there's chunks of something in between the gears keeping them from spinning freely.
So i decide to take it apart. all of it.

I take the gear out, seperate it from the lsd. then i took apart the lsd, which by the way is a bitch. i don't think it's ment to be taken apart but oh well, at this point it cant get worse right? so i take the entire assembly apart. clean it all, lube it up and spend the next 2 hrs trying to get that cluster**** of gears back into the lsd housing. not the diff - the lsd housing.

Finally got it back in --->

still locks up like they're something stuck. Dude next to me says i got to keep spining it and get all the carbon off. Carbon? he said -- the car was on fire, it probably got pretty hot in there. Well

it only spins if i hit the propshafts with a rubber mallet. I'm screwed. Wasted 8 hrs of my life. Guess the heat just messed up the diff. i could have sworn it worked before i put it in the parts washer. and even after. Can it be because it was sitting without oil for a day all cleaned out from the solvent (partscleaner). only the diff god knows and quite frankly, he's not on my side today.

Maybe i'll post some pics tomorrow. Have to nurish my wounds. And my car is on the lift without a diff. What a f... up day

"get the carbon off"?

Much more likely the heat warped the housing.

Reply Like

03-07-2007, 12:35 AM

#12

SpitfireS

Registered User

Join Date: Jan 2006

Location: 17 ft below sea level.

Posts: 4,949

Likes: 0

Received 21 Likes on 16 Posts

silencertk Posted: Mar 7 2007, 04:58 AM

Quote:

... i could have sworn it worked before i put it in the parts washer. and even after..... Can it be because it was sitting without oil for a day all cleaned out from the solvent (partscleaner). only the diff god knows and quite frankly, he's not on my side today.

I'm no diff god.. but I do know that you get surface rust on unprotected steel parts.

Quote:

take the gear out, seperate it from the lsd. then i took apart the lsd, which by the way is a bitch. i don't think it's ment to be taken apart but oh well, at this point it cant get worse right?

Yes, it can.
Unfortunatly.

Slows2k Posted on Mar 7 2007, 05:47 AM

Quote:

Unless you have the tools and the ability to reset the gear backlash and check the pattern, Taking the LSD carrier and ring gear out is not a good idea.

To silencertk: I've also been following your "Bad diff bearing" post in UTH.
From the start you have been convinced it was the diff, even after experienced people like Billman said the clicking was the axle nut and the vibration the CV buckets.
To this day I think you have also not taken the axle out of the hub (completely) to inspect and re-grease the splines, if you have, you haven't mentioned it.
I have mentioned that there was a possiblity IMO that a "worn" output shaft may "not help" to elimintate vibration in the complete axle.
You never confirmed that your old output shafts were ok.
You went on to buy a used diff "that would solve all your problems".
Now you have taken it apart without the knowledge to put it back together.

But I'm not giving up.. yet.

What you could do:
Forget about the "burned diff."
Use the output shafts of the "burned diff" in your old diff.
Take both axles completely out of their hubs and inspect, clean and apply EP grease on the splines, then re-torque.
Put it all back together.
Test drive.

Succes!
You're going to need it.

Reply Like

03-07-2007, 04:38 AM

#13

silencertk

Registered User

Thread Starter

Join Date: Jun 2006

Location: Valdosta, GA

Posts: 465

Likes: 0

Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts

Thank you for your patience. In germany we say you hit the nail on the head lol, in other words you got it exactly right.

Here is what i'm going to do. I already took the output shafts from the "burnt" diff and am going to use them in my diff, and they feel a little tighter, but after yesterday i could just be imagining.

Yes i havent took the axles completely out of the hub, but i guess i can since it's all taken apart right now anyway.

I already regreased and retorqued the axle nut 3 times. yes without taking it out of the hub
I already swapped axle buckets.

I'm also still considering that it could be something with my brake pads but oh well.

Back on topic --> what to do with the burnt diff now. trash?!