Torque wrench? Clicking or Beam?
04-05-2006, 08:24 AM
#21
Originally Posted by DiamondDave2005,Apr 5 2006, 04:51 AM
My dentist used a torque wrench on my tooth (implant) a couple of weeks ago. Now that's a weird-ass feeling 
04-05-2006, 09:25 AM
#22
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I work on torque wrenches for a living.... Calibrations and servicing at least 100 of them since I've been in the Navy.
Beam Type: Great for low levels of torque (<30 ftlbs), as you can get a direct visual indication. Overall though this is my least favorite type, as it's very dependant on how it's held. Because of this your indications can vary somewhat if your hands are too far up the wrenches beam. (Most have a pivot point where you can hold it most accurately)
Dial Type: Similar to above, but has a rotary dial on the head of the beam to indicate your current torque.
Snapping (Clicker type): This is best for heavier loads (> 20lbs) but is very dependant on the speed of the application of torque. Too fast and you'll shoot past (over torque), too slow and it may snap early (under torque). Another consideration is that most generic wrenches are only good for 10% to 90% of it's rated scale. What i mean by that is a wrench listed as 1 to 100 ftlbs is real only going to be accurate between 10 to 90ftlbs. (The sweet spot) Keep in mind that this will vary considerably from mfr to mfr, and from model to model. Learning your torque wrenches capabilities and limits is an essential to using it correctly.
BTW: Never drop a torque wrench or use it for anything other then setting torque, as this can damage it internally. One last thing... most torque wrenches are bi-directional, despite this I suggest using it in only one direction only as it will increase the accuracy and useful life of your wrench.
Beam Type: Great for low levels of torque (<30 ftlbs), as you can get a direct visual indication. Overall though this is my least favorite type, as it's very dependant on how it's held. Because of this your indications can vary somewhat if your hands are too far up the wrenches beam. (Most have a pivot point where you can hold it most accurately)
Dial Type: Similar to above, but has a rotary dial on the head of the beam to indicate your current torque.
Snapping (Clicker type): This is best for heavier loads (> 20lbs) but is very dependant on the speed of the application of torque. Too fast and you'll shoot past (over torque), too slow and it may snap early (under torque). Another consideration is that most generic wrenches are only good for 10% to 90% of it's rated scale. What i mean by that is a wrench listed as 1 to 100 ftlbs is real only going to be accurate between 10 to 90ftlbs. (The sweet spot) Keep in mind that this will vary considerably from mfr to mfr, and from model to model. Learning your torque wrenches capabilities and limits is an essential to using it correctly.
BTW: Never drop a torque wrench or use it for anything other then setting torque, as this can damage it internally. One last thing... most torque wrenches are bi-directional, despite this I suggest using it in only one direction only as it will increase the accuracy and useful life of your wrench.
04-05-2006, 01:02 PM
#27
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I use an inch lb torque wrench for stuff below 15ft lbs. It's not really advisable to use a ft lb torque wrench below its min mark. I personally use Husky brand ft/in lbs torque wrenches. For the big jobs like 150ft lbs and above I use a 1/2" Sears brand wrench.
I forgot to add all of them are clicker types.
I forgot to add all of them are clicker types.
04-05-2006, 04:27 PM
#28
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Originally Posted by SpitfireS,Apr 4 2006, 01:09 PM
About the clicker types: when stored wind down the spring to 0 to relief the spring.
We have calibrated ones at work and we store them that way, according to what the ppl that calibrate them told us. Not only that but it makes sense.
We have calibrated ones at work and we store them that way, according to what the ppl that calibrate them told us. Not only that but it makes sense.
04-05-2006, 05:25 PM
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Beam type torque wrench(if a quality make) is the most accurate and doesnt
need periodic calibration. A"clicker" type wrench is the most convenient to use,
but should be calibrated on a regular basis ,and, should only be used in the
middle 60% of its rated range- i.e. if the rated range is 25-100 ft-lbs . the
greatest accuracy will be approx.40-90ft-lbs. My personal experience is with
Snap-On wrenches.
need periodic calibration. A"clicker" type wrench is the most convenient to use,
but should be calibrated on a regular basis ,and, should only be used in the
middle 60% of its rated range- i.e. if the rated range is 25-100 ft-lbs . the
greatest accuracy will be approx.40-90ft-lbs. My personal experience is with
Snap-On wrenches.
04-06-2006, 01:58 AM
#30
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Race Miata Posted on Apr 6 2006, 02:27 AM
Dont forget to mention YOU mentioned it
Just caught this thread again at work so I checked, I'm typing this 6ft away from where we store them.
Agreed not to turn back to 0, in fact the ones we have cant go back to 0.
So substitute "0" for "Lowest setting".
Btw, all the ones we have (6 in increasing Nm) cant be turned back so far to completely relief the spring, so that manufacturer (Johnichi) made it fool-proof.
I cant speak for other manufacturers.
Do NOT store click-type torque wrench at 0 torque setting. Instead, turn it to the lowest torque setting or follow whatever the manufacturer suggests. It's been mentioned not long ago here.
Just caught this thread again at work so I checked, I'm typing this 6ft away from where we store them.
Agreed not to turn back to 0, in fact the ones we have cant go back to 0.
So substitute "0" for "Lowest setting".
Btw, all the ones we have (6 in increasing Nm) cant be turned back so far to completely relief the spring, so that manufacturer (Johnichi) made it fool-proof.
I cant speak for other manufacturers.