Torque Sensor replacement
12-11-2017, 02:10 PM
#51
Hi lachambers (tried sending you a PM but there is a limit on the number of characters, SMH) Anyway, I'm surprised that greasing the shaft made a difference, it just looks like there is a seal around the shaft and any grease being applied wouldn't have much of a chance to work its way inside the seal. Maybe I'm wrong though, it seems to work for you.
Mine is definitely temperature related, I'm in Atlanta and we've had a few temperature swings lately, it's much more noticeable now that the temps have dropped. I'm the original owner, and after 15 years and 135,000 miles, I don't mind just replacing the torque sensor since that's the root cause. I think it's interesting that your 2002 only has 30,000 miles which points more to the problem possibly being corroded contacts. We use a contact lubricant here at work called "ProGold" and it's proven itself time and time again on improving conductivity on DC contact connections, when I get a chance, I'll see if I can pull the connectors, clean them with some emery cloth, apply some lubricant, and see if that's enough of a temporary fix.
I'm also thinking about selling or trading in my car, so I'm not in a hurry to spend $350 + labor to install the new torque sensor. On the other hand, if I keep the car, I might as well fix the problem sooner rather than later.
Mine is definitely temperature related, I'm in Atlanta and we've had a few temperature swings lately, it's much more noticeable now that the temps have dropped. I'm the original owner, and after 15 years and 135,000 miles, I don't mind just replacing the torque sensor since that's the root cause. I think it's interesting that your 2002 only has 30,000 miles which points more to the problem possibly being corroded contacts. We use a contact lubricant here at work called "ProGold" and it's proven itself time and time again on improving conductivity on DC contact connections, when I get a chance, I'll see if I can pull the connectors, clean them with some emery cloth, apply some lubricant, and see if that's enough of a temporary fix.
I'm also thinking about selling or trading in my car, so I'm not in a hurry to spend $350 + labor to install the new torque sensor. On the other hand, if I keep the car, I might as well fix the problem sooner rather than later.
12-11-2017, 02:54 PM
#52
Registered User
Hey S2K Dude, thanks for the reply. Temps are diffidently part of the issue, no question.. I would also try the lube under the dust cover either way. It only take a few minutes to apply the lubricant. I have found that a lighter lube works better more than a heavy grease, probably because of the colder temps. . I have not cleaned the contacts yet so have no knowledge of that working. There is no doubt that the lubrication helps!!!
Like I said let me know if you want to talk,
Lachambers
Like I said let me know if you want to talk,
Lachambers
11-13-2018, 04:08 AM
#53
I've been putting off replacing the torque sensor, but yesterday I've gone ahead and ordered the AP2 part, per this thread, it should work. I also talked to the Service Manager at my local Honda dealer, he said the AP2 part should work as well. I could not get any confirmation if the less expensive CR version of the part would work though.
I'll be sure to post up when I do the replacement so we can keep this thread up to date for other owners.
I'll be sure to post up when I do the replacement so we can keep this thread up to date for other owners.
11-13-2018, 04:11 AM
#54
Registered User
I cleaned and lubed mine with great success!
It's been fine for since, even in very cold weather this past weekend.
The torque sensor is just a potentiometer (not very different than a radio volume knob). over time, the internal electrical contacts (that relay the steering position to the eps computer) get corroded (no surprise given the age of our cars).
I made a post in the talk and tech FB group a while back detialing how I cleaned mine (need to make a DIY here sometime), but the short answer is this:
You'll need an electronics contact cleaner and lubricant. I used CRC QD Contact Cleaner and CRC 2-26 Lubricant (other brands, such as Caig should work just as well (only used CRC because my local Home Depot had them in stock))
1. Pull back boot
2. Using a pick, carefully pull the inner seal back enough to insert the cleaner straw
3. Spray liberally
4. Row the wheel from lock to lock many times (car off!)
5. Give the cleaner plenty of time to dry (IIRC, I think I waited a day)
6. Repeat steps 2-4 using the lube
Optional step 7. Complete the same set of steps for the interior light door switches!
Mine had been spastic for over a year, initially in cold weather only, but was even doing it in the summer. Since following this procedure, it's been 100% perfect (even in the 30's!).
For some reason, the workings of the torque sensor seem to be a mystery, and I'm betting many people replaced them (or the entire rack) needlessly. TRY THIS FIRST!!!
It's been fine for since, even in very cold weather this past weekend.
The torque sensor is just a potentiometer (not very different than a radio volume knob). over time, the internal electrical contacts (that relay the steering position to the eps computer) get corroded (no surprise given the age of our cars).
I made a post in the talk and tech FB group a while back detialing how I cleaned mine (need to make a DIY here sometime), but the short answer is this:
You'll need an electronics contact cleaner and lubricant. I used CRC QD Contact Cleaner and CRC 2-26 Lubricant (other brands, such as Caig should work just as well (only used CRC because my local Home Depot had them in stock))
1. Pull back boot
2. Using a pick, carefully pull the inner seal back enough to insert the cleaner straw
3. Spray liberally
4. Row the wheel from lock to lock many times (car off!)
5. Give the cleaner plenty of time to dry (IIRC, I think I waited a day)
6. Repeat steps 2-4 using the lube
Optional step 7. Complete the same set of steps for the interior light door switches!
Mine had been spastic for over a year, initially in cold weather only, but was even doing it in the summer. Since following this procedure, it's been 100% perfect (even in the 30's!).
For some reason, the workings of the torque sensor seem to be a mystery, and I'm betting many people replaced them (or the entire rack) needlessly. TRY THIS FIRST!!!
The following users liked this post:
ziffen (10-20-2019)
11-13-2018, 07:37 AM
#55
I cleaned and lubed mine with great success!
It's been fine for since, even in very cold weather this past weekend.
The torque sensor is just a potentiometer (not very different than a radio volume knob). over time, the internal electrical contacts (that relay the steering position to the eps computer) get corroded (no surprise given the age of our cars).
I made a post in the talk and tech FB group a while back detialing how I cleaned mine (need to make a DIY here sometime), but the short answer is this:
You'll need an electronics contact cleaner and lubricant. I used CRC QD Contact Cleaner and CRC 2-26 Lubricant (other brands, such as Caig should work just as well (only used CRC because my local Home Depot had them in stock))
1. Pull back boot
2. Using a pick, carefully pull the inner seal back enough to insert the cleaner straw
3. Spray liberally
4. Row the wheel from lock to lock many times (car off!)
5. Give the cleaner plenty of time to dry (IIRC, I think I waited a day)
6. Repeat steps 2-4 using the lube
Optional step 7. Complete the same set of steps for the interior light door switches!
Mine had been spastic for over a year, initially in cold weather only, but was even doing it in the summer. Since following this procedure, it's been 100% perfect (even in the 30's!).
For some reason, the workings of the torque sensor seem to be a mystery, and I'm betting many people replaced them (or the entire rack) needlessly. TRY THIS FIRST!!!
It's been fine for since, even in very cold weather this past weekend.
The torque sensor is just a potentiometer (not very different than a radio volume knob). over time, the internal electrical contacts (that relay the steering position to the eps computer) get corroded (no surprise given the age of our cars).
I made a post in the talk and tech FB group a while back detialing how I cleaned mine (need to make a DIY here sometime), but the short answer is this:
You'll need an electronics contact cleaner and lubricant. I used CRC QD Contact Cleaner and CRC 2-26 Lubricant (other brands, such as Caig should work just as well (only used CRC because my local Home Depot had them in stock))
1. Pull back boot
2. Using a pick, carefully pull the inner seal back enough to insert the cleaner straw
3. Spray liberally
4. Row the wheel from lock to lock many times (car off!)
5. Give the cleaner plenty of time to dry (IIRC, I think I waited a day)
6. Repeat steps 2-4 using the lube
Optional step 7. Complete the same set of steps for the interior light door switches!
Mine had been spastic for over a year, initially in cold weather only, but was even doing it in the summer. Since following this procedure, it's been 100% perfect (even in the 30's!).
For some reason, the workings of the torque sensor seem to be a mystery, and I'm betting many people replaced them (or the entire rack) needlessly. TRY THIS FIRST!!!
11-13-2018, 07:48 AM
#56
Registered User
I shot from both above and below with both products (to ensure I hit all the internals).
No real tips.
11-13-2018, 08:04 AM
#57
