Cant Believe I Own A S2K

Ok guys, so I took the time last night to check the valves and adjusted accordingly. The valve adjustment specs are intake .21 -- .25 mm and exhaust .25 -- .29 mm. I set each cylinder at TDC and preceded to adjusting the valves. I checked each valve before making an adjustment. However I noticed that whichever cylinder was at TDC, the rollers seemed to have slack in them. Aren't they suppose to be tight and isn't there a spring inside the roller? This lead me to believe I was going to get inaccurate measurements. Anyways I preceded to adjust accordingly. Even with the slack, each valve was so tight that I could not fit a .20 mm on the intake side nor a .25 on the exhaust side. I had to adjust every single valve on the intake and exhaust side. So I finished up and put everything back together, then cranked the car and this is what I got. The ticking is still there but the tone of the ticking has changed and is almost a little quieter (the phone seems to make it a lot worse than it really is in person). It seems to idle better also. I strongly believe this noise is valve chatter due to wore out rollers. I also did notice, since the car was backed up in the shop, very faint white smoke coming from the exhaust. It did not smell like burnt oil, but it is definitely smoking some.

http://s1208.photobucket.com/user/co...ljk0l.mp4.html

http://s1208.photobucket.com/user/co...vvkgp.mp4.html

Cant Believe I Own A S2K

Thanks for the good luck, and I thought so too being that it has 180k on it. I'll change the oil this evening, and like nissanfanatic, I'll cut open the filter and hopefully won't find anything crazy. I'm pretty set on ordering a TCT from Billman, just have to wait the 2 week grace period till I can PM him lol

Cant Believe I Own A S2K

Moved on to try to locate this oil leak, and it seems to be coming from the top of the TCT which I believe is the Vtec solenoid? Correct me if I'm wrong. Unbolted it and the o-ring or gasket, whatever is suppose to be there has completely deteriorated. Apparently O'reillys does not stock a rebuild kit for this, so I guess I will be ordering online soon.

Slowcrash_101

Ballade sells a replacement o-ring it's $49 but beats the alternative of a new Vtec solenoid which costs $189

Slowcrash_101

It's better to have the cam lobes almost perpendicular to the rocker arm, that will give you the most accurate reading. Yes you want there to be a tiny gap between the rocker and the valve stem tip. I use the sound they make when you rock them back and forth to make sure the clearance is set properly.

Billman250

That's not deterioration, that's someone poor attempt to silicone it to stop a leak. Little pieces of silicone can block the passages and destroy the engine, so pick every bit of that stuff out of there.

Cant Believe I Own A S2K

Thanks Billman. I was not aware of this due to the fact that I have never examined one before. I need to get with you about ordering a TCT, will try and shoot you a PM but not sure if it has been 2 weeks or not yet.

Cant Believe I Own A S2K

Latest update. Finally got the time to drain the oil, and all looked good. I strained the oil and when I finished I found absolutely no metal fragments anywhere. Oil was dark but metal free. I then ran a fairly large and very strong magnet along the bottom of the pan, towards the drain plug, then stuck a magnetic screwdriver into the drain hole to see if I could pick anything up. Once again though, no metal fragments whatsoever. I then preceded to checking for rod knock (slack). I removed the 4 spark plugs, then taped two straws together to give me the depth I would need. I then inserted the straw into the plug hole (same process for each piston), then marked with a sharpie a reference line slightly above the valve cover on the straw. I then hand turned the crank to move the piston. I let the piston rise to top dead center, then stopped as soon as the piston began its decent. At this point I removed the straw, then took a piece of wood (1/2" diameter) and inserted it into the plug hole. I also made a mark on the piece of wood for a reference point. I then pushed onto the top of each piston to determine if their was rod slack or not. None of the pistons moved a single bit, which leads me to believe the rod bearings are still tight and within clearance. After this, I removed the v-tec solenoid and checked the screen in it. I did find some small pieces of gasket eliminator or some kind of sealant and one very small piece of aluminum literally about the size of a small ant. At this point the only other thing I believe to do is drop the pan and physically inspect the bottom end for piece of mind. Or let it run its course how it is and see what happens! haha open to any comments, tips, or insults. Lets hear it.

windhund116

"I also made a mark on the piece of wood for a reference point. I then pushed onto the top of each piston to determine if their was rod slack or not. None of the pistons moved a single bit, which leads me to believe the rod bearings are still tight and within clearance."

Not sure if this is an accurate method of measuring rod bearing tolerance. Prolly best to remove crankcase pan, to inspect each bearing.

Slowcrash_101

It's an oldschool method, totally accurate for older engines with looser clearances.