Timing Chain Tensioner Noise
#731
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Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: New Slowmyrna Beach
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I'm installing my second TCT (maybe third). You cannot hear the the rattle until the car is warmed up, and then it is quite loud. Any thoughts on this?
I rev my AP2 to 9k, this may have something to do with it.
I rev my AP2 to 9k, this may have something to do with it.
#733
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Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Clayton, NC
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Here are pics of the job it turned out awesome so far. I turned my car on and the card in the spokes sound went away. It was very easy.
The worm gear is the gray screw looking object. It kind of looks like an overweight worm. It was very shiny when I took it out. Sandblast that baby!
When you turn the bolt the piston of the tensioner will turn in. The nut holds the piston in so you can put a pin in. The last inch of the compression I used the edge of my table to compress.
When pulling the pin out of the maintenance hole the piston will snap into place. It is not fast so don't get scared.
The worm gear is the gray screw looking object. It kind of looks like an overweight worm. It was very shiny when I took it out. Sandblast that baby!
When you turn the bolt the piston of the tensioner will turn in. The nut holds the piston in so you can put a pin in. The last inch of the compression I used the edge of my table to compress.
When pulling the pin out of the maintenance hole the piston will snap into place. It is not fast so don't get scared.
#734
Originally Posted by pwe312,Jan 24 2009, 01:18 PM
MOBIL 1 for this car.
I had the same noise as everyone else. Did a valve adjustment and it got better at start ups, but was bad when warm again. Switched from Mobil 1 synthetic 10w-30 to Amisol 10w-30 synthetic and now the noise is completely gone. Its been 2 weeks and ~1000 miles.
I bought the car with 62k miles and there was no noise. Put in Mobil 1 for first oil change, and about 4k miles later had the noise. Someone suggested Mobil 1 is probably over lubricating the worm in the tensioner. This is probably true.
I've been using Mobil 1 on all my former cars, but I think its time to give it up for the S.
I had the same noise as everyone else. Did a valve adjustment and it got better at start ups, but was bad when warm again. Switched from Mobil 1 synthetic 10w-30 to Amisol 10w-30 synthetic and now the noise is completely gone. Its been 2 weeks and ~1000 miles.
I bought the car with 62k miles and there was no noise. Put in Mobil 1 for first oil change, and about 4k miles later had the noise. Someone suggested Mobil 1 is probably over lubricating the worm in the tensioner. This is probably true.
I've been using Mobil 1 on all my former cars, but I think its time to give it up for the S.
#735
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Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Twin Falls ID.
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Well I have been reading the whole TCT post and am gaining confidence in attempting this on my own... I just take it out like normal, take it apart grab some corse emery cloth sand the shit out of the worm gear, put all back together take the top plate off and put the m5 bolt in to retract it all slip a pin in put the back plate back on and put it back in and pull the pin through the maintanance hole?
Mine got really bad now it sounds like I have a whold deck of cards in my motor. sitting or driving.... at alltimes!
Mine got really bad now it sounds like I have a whold deck of cards in my motor. sitting or driving.... at alltimes!
#739
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You don't have to pin the piston, just leave it retracted until you have the mounting bolts installed and torqued to specs, then remove the retracting bolt and nuts and then reinstall the oil jet, and then reinstall the cap......You don't even have to remove the inspection/maintenance plug, I didn't.
#740
Registered User
IMHO sandblasting the wormgear is superior to just emery cloth sanding it, you can't get into all the valleys as well with the emery cloth. Not to mention it is quicker and easier to sandblast than to emery cloth sand.
ljsimp's pics above show a properly sandblasted wormgear.
ljsimp's pics above show a properly sandblasted wormgear.