Timing Chain Tensioner Noise
#701
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Location: Orange County, California
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Originally Posted by pwe312,Jan 24 2009, 01:18 PM
MOBIL 1 for this car.
I had the same noise as everyone else. Did a valve adjustment and it got better at start ups, but was bad when warm again. Switched from Mobil 1 synthetic 10w-30 to Amisol 10w-30 synthetic and now the noise is completely gone. Its been 2 weeks and ~1000 miles.
I bought the car with 62k miles and there was no noise. Put in Mobil 1 for first oil change, and about 4k miles later had the noise. Someone suggested Mobil 1 is probably over lubricating the worm in the tensioner. This is probably true.
I've been using Mobil 1 on all my former cars, but I think its time to give it up for the S.
I had the same noise as everyone else. Did a valve adjustment and it got better at start ups, but was bad when warm again. Switched from Mobil 1 synthetic 10w-30 to Amisol 10w-30 synthetic and now the noise is completely gone. Its been 2 weeks and ~1000 miles.
I bought the car with 62k miles and there was no noise. Put in Mobil 1 for first oil change, and about 4k miles later had the noise. Someone suggested Mobil 1 is probably over lubricating the worm in the tensioner. This is probably true.
I've been using Mobil 1 on all my former cars, but I think its time to give it up for the S.
I'm not trying to bash Mobil 1. I use it on every other car perfectly fine, but it doesn't work with this car and I advise all of my friends not to use it on their S2000s.
#702
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Location: Chicago
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I switched from Mobile1 synthetic to Shell dyno oil.. no TCT noise for over 5k miles and it use to make noise every cold start.
Also. it stopped burning oil, with Mobile1 i use to burn about 1 qt every 1k miles. now it doesn't but a damn drop.
**** MOBILE 1
Also. it stopped burning oil, with Mobile1 i use to burn about 1 qt every 1k miles. now it doesn't but a damn drop.
**** MOBILE 1
#708
Originally Posted by Billman250,Aug 14 2007, 03:09 PM
Here's a pic of a bunch of junk TCTs
No longer junk.
Mine is going out after 4000 miles again.
I have an old one where the worm gear is polished on one side of the thread. The polish on the worm gear is very evident. I'll sand blast it and see how it goes.
I am wondering about the mating surface the gear threads into and if that should be sandblasted or wire brushed internally too?
Is there a picture a worm gear after the sand blast?
Since I do have emory paper, how did you guys using emory paper rough up the polished sides of the threads on the worm gear? Any special technique?
#709
Registered User
I just finished sand blasting my worm gear with a little portable sand blaster I got from Harbor Freight for like $15. It cost more for the sand to blast it with (I paid $24 for the Aluminum Oxide 20lbs.) So for less than a third of the cost of a new one, my TCT now works as it should once again, and I have the leftover aluminum oxide and blaster to do it again many times if needed. It seems that about every 70,000 miles or so on my car the TCT would go bad; this one is a warrantee replacement.
I just used the 5mmX.8mmX50mm bolt and nut to retract the plunger (clockwise retracts) after sandblasting the wormgear, before installing and tightening the mounting bolts. Once the mounting bolts are torqued to spec. then I just removed the 5mmX.8 bolt and nut, reinstalled the oil jet, then reinstalled and torqued the cap to spec. I never even took the maintenance plug out. Worked great. Thanks Billman250!!!
I just used the 5mmX.8mmX50mm bolt and nut to retract the plunger (clockwise retracts) after sandblasting the wormgear, before installing and tightening the mounting bolts. Once the mounting bolts are torqued to spec. then I just removed the 5mmX.8 bolt and nut, reinstalled the oil jet, then reinstalled and torqued the cap to spec. I never even took the maintenance plug out. Worked great. Thanks Billman250!!!