S2000 Under The Hood S2000 Technical and Mechanical discussions.

Timing Chain Tensioner Noise

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Old 03-01-2010, 06:47 PM
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Originally Posted by pwe312,Jan 24 2009, 01:18 PM
MOBIL 1 for this car.

I had the same noise as everyone else. Did a valve adjustment and it got better at start ups, but was bad when warm again. Switched from Mobil 1 synthetic 10w-30 to Amisol 10w-30 synthetic and now the noise is completely gone. Its been 2 weeks and ~1000 miles.

I bought the car with 62k miles and there was no noise. Put in Mobil 1 for first oil change, and about 4k miles later had the noise. Someone suggested Mobil 1 is probably over lubricating the worm in the tensioner. This is probably true.

I've been using Mobil 1 on all my former cars, but I think its time to give it up for the S.
Update for my car... Its been almost 10k miles and over a year since I switched from Mobil 1 to Amisol and now Redline. No timing chain noise at all the whole time. I only used Mobil 1 for 4k miles when I first bought the car at 60k miles. So I'm guessing if you use Mobil 1 for a long time it will be too late and you'll have to sand the worm gear or replace everything.

I'm not trying to bash Mobil 1. I use it on every other car perfectly fine, but it doesn't work with this car and I advise all of my friends not to use it on their S2000s.
Old 03-02-2010, 11:46 AM
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I switched from Mobile1 synthetic to Shell dyno oil.. no TCT noise for over 5k miles and it use to make noise every cold start.

Also. it stopped burning oil, with Mobile1 i use to burn about 1 qt every 1k miles. now it doesn't but a damn drop.

**** MOBILE 1
Old 03-05-2010, 02:50 AM
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So the bit to the left of the red circle in that picture?!
Old 03-05-2010, 04:31 AM
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Originally Posted by buaan,Mar 5 2010, 06:50 AM
So the bit to the left of the red circle in that picture?!
yes
Old 03-05-2010, 05:14 AM
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Edit your posts and red circle to avoid confusion. maybe slows2k can clean this up once the red circle is fixed
Old 03-05-2010, 03:12 PM
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does anyone know the bolt thread size needed to retract the piston?
Old 03-06-2010, 09:42 AM
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Originally Posted by Evil///M,Mar 6 2010, 03:12 AM
does anyone know the bolt thread size needed to retract the piston?
M5
Old 03-06-2010, 12:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Billman250,Aug 14 2007, 03:09 PM
Here's a pic of a bunch of junk TCTs

No longer junk.

Mine is going out after 4000 miles again.

I have an old one where the worm gear is polished on one side of the thread. The polish on the worm gear is very evident. I'll sand blast it and see how it goes.
I am wondering about the mating surface the gear threads into and if that should be sandblasted or wire brushed internally too?

Is there a picture a worm gear after the sand blast?

Since I do have emory paper, how did you guys using emory paper rough up the polished sides of the threads on the worm gear? Any special technique?
Old 03-06-2010, 01:24 PM
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I just finished sand blasting my worm gear with a little portable sand blaster I got from Harbor Freight for like $15. It cost more for the sand to blast it with (I paid $24 for the Aluminum Oxide 20lbs.) So for less than a third of the cost of a new one, my TCT now works as it should once again, and I have the leftover aluminum oxide and blaster to do it again many times if needed. It seems that about every 70,000 miles or so on my car the TCT would go bad; this one is a warrantee replacement.
I just used the 5mmX.8mmX50mm bolt and nut to retract the plunger (clockwise retracts) after sandblasting the wormgear, before installing and tightening the mounting bolts. Once the mounting bolts are torqued to spec. then I just removed the 5mmX.8 bolt and nut, reinstalled the oil jet, then reinstalled and torqued the cap to spec. I never even took the maintenance plug out. Worked great. Thanks Billman250!!!
Old 03-06-2010, 02:37 PM
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what grit/coarseness emery cloth are you guys using? i might possibly do this tomorrow or next weekend.


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