Timing Chain Tensioner Noise
#52
Originally Posted by david1,Sep 17 2005, 06:12 PM
For the past couple of years I just attributed the noisy valve train of my S to that. I thought I just had a noisy one. It sounded like a diesel at idle
#55
Moderator
Originally Posted by FormerH22a4,Feb 25 2006, 02:36 PM
I think i have a little but of play in my steering wheel now too.
#56
Registered User
Originally Posted by billman250,Feb 27 2006, 10:44 PM
You have to disconnect the steering coupler when pulling the engine, they most likely forgot to tighten it. Go back there screaming.
my chain noise is faint. They used my old Timing Chain Tensioner, probably installed incorrectly since my old one had no problems.
#57
Moderator
The EPS should only need to be calibrated if the wheels have lost their relative position with the rack. This is not the case, as yours was steering wheel-to-rack. Personally I'd fix it myself.
Take a flashlight, and look right next to the AC compressor. You'll see the steering coupler. Each yolk has a bolt with a 10mm head. Have a bud wiggle the steering wheel back and forth, it will be quite obvious what is loose. Get a long extension, turn the wheel just right so you can get the socket on one of the bolts, and tighten one of them. Then turn the wheel again to access the other one.
Make sure the steering wheel is straight when you're driving straight. If not they did not line it up correctly.
I'd still call and bitch that they could have gotten you killed.
Take a flashlight, and look right next to the AC compressor. You'll see the steering coupler. Each yolk has a bolt with a 10mm head. Have a bud wiggle the steering wheel back and forth, it will be quite obvious what is loose. Get a long extension, turn the wheel just right so you can get the socket on one of the bolts, and tighten one of them. Then turn the wheel again to access the other one.
Make sure the steering wheel is straight when you're driving straight. If not they did not line it up correctly.
I'd still call and bitch that they could have gotten you killed.
#58
Registered User
thanks Bill. I'll update once they tighten it up. My car goes straight now but I'll have to wait a week until I can take it in, guess I should stay off high speed freeways =)
Oh, how loud should the sound be until it is deemed "bad" for the chain tensioner?
Oh, how loud should the sound be until it is deemed "bad" for the chain tensioner?
#59
Registered User
Well, the dealer replaced my auto tensioner and the sound I had before is hardly there anymore. There is still a faint noise that I notice since it never existed in my old engine before the engine replacement but now I am happy with the workings of my car.
The steering is fixed thanks to the guru xviper and now that faint cards in spoke sound is gone too.
The steering is fixed thanks to the guru xviper and now that faint cards in spoke sound is gone too.
#60
Registered User
Originally Posted by FormerH22a4,Mar 7 2006, 03:57 AM
Well, the dealer replaced my auto tensioner and the sound I had before is hardly there anymore. There is still a faint noise that I notice since it never existed in my old engine before the engine replacement but now I am happy with the workings of my car.
The steering is fixed thanks to the guru xviper and now that faint cards in spoke sound is gone too.
The steering is fixed thanks to the guru xviper and now that faint cards in spoke sound is gone too.
What if the two bolts aren't torqued to spec on install of the new auto-tensioner?
Do you think it is because of a new timing chain that was included in the short block replacement?
Also, how does valve tick compare with the auto tensioner tick?
And finally, would the dealer have done a valve adjustment as part of the valve seals and guide replacement?