RACER

*knocks on wood*

s98d7fs

I don't know that much about the oiling system in these cars, and others have commented that it could be a oil pressure issue. I'd guess that the oil pump in these cars is constant volume rather than constant pressure. That being the case, the pressure results from the particular weight of oil you use. So a thicker oil would result in more pressure than a thin one. And you'll get a certain PSI drop across your oil filter, obviously less for a less restrictive filter (less/thinner media, larger oil outlets).

So would a less restrictive oil filter and 15w40 (with this theory) be able to provide adequate pressure for a failing tensioner to do it's job?

I'd love to test this out, but I've just recently replaced my tensioner and oil (so far no noise). The noise became noticable during my M1 0w40 OCI. After I replaced my tensioner, I went back to M1 EP 10w30 w/ LC20 (thin additive) and VSOT (very thick additive).

Anyway, I'm think that oil pressure is the issue with the tensioner. I just doubt that the springs are failing with the heat cycling (especially since I think they just hold the piston against the tensioner guide while the engine is off).

Billman250

I now have to give a VIN each time I get a TCT. This means Honda is tracking the issue and something may be done.

The s2k TCT is design flawed from the factory and in need of revision. My Generation System Modified TCTs are about ready.

s98d7fs

Billman,

Any ideas/leads as to why they go bad over time? It seems that they're good for thousands of miles before they start failing.

iamhomin

Damn it. I just tried to replace mine (I know it's late), and found out that I need to purchase the L-shape tool (forgot the name) to remove the maintenance hole. DOH..

mxt_77

I assume you're talking about an allen wrench. You probably won't want an allen wrench... you should buy the socket type instead, so you can torque the bolt properly when you re-install it.

BTW.. if you have no other car or friends to take you to Autozone to get the required tool, there is a technique mentioned (I think in this thread) for installing the TCT without removing the maintenance bolt (it was mentioned for the use of guys that have superchargers). Basically, it involves using a technique similar to that which was used to prevent the TCT pistion from falling out when you removed the old one. (i.e., using the bolt & nut to "lock" the piston into place while inserting the TCT, and then remove them once the TCT is secured).

jimi

It's about dam time. It's funny now Honda want's VIN#'s did they think Billman was collecting these things? I belive Honda exports about 5000 S2000's per yr to the U.S. so, were talking talking some 40k cars. I wonder How many of these had problems? Also, Some one needs to do a poll. TCT failure using M1 vs dino. I used M1 for 105k miles. and 4 TCT's. Switched to castrol GTX high milage. After 6k miles so far so good zero burn off and no TCT noise...So far. Now if only Honda would address the soft top tear issue
By the way Bill, that custom Valve job turned my car into a snorting beast I'm consistently shifting @ 7k rpm with no issues

mxt_77

Yay! Let's hope for a positive outcome.

I'm not sure what the VIN is going to indicate, though. Seems like the TCT issue has affected all years of S2000s, so it's not like there was just one small batch that was bad.

John_Z

Add me to the long list of TCT victims 4.5yrs and only 20k miles

S2oooNvegas

I just replaced my third one on friday nite, at 63k miles. this is def a known issue, and they are on intergalactic backorder as of now, so honda must be revising them, since they are failing at an alarming rate.

The next revision i hope to see is alternator. im gonna have to do my third one also now, the diode/rectifier keeps failing. and then allows A/C voltage into the system, how will YOU know, look at your cluster at idle. flickering is it? alternator is bad. it will still charge over 12 volts, that doesnt mean anything. just so you know. later gang dave