stitos2k

So, replacing the time chain tensioner is pretty easy on a stock s2k. All you really need is a 10 mm socket, 5mm socket, and medium sized flat head screw driver. BTW, when you get the new one there is a pin holding down a cylinder. Its spring loaded, and the spring is very strong. Don't pull the pin until you follow a couple of steps.

You may want to remove the stock air box for easier access.

**I take no responsibility for the accuraccy of these instructions. USE AT OWN RISK . But seriously, use a helm manual, know a mechanic, be mechanically inclined, whatever! But I'm writing this from memory so realize this is only a general guide to help out a little and get you started**


**If you don't have a comptech SC, I'm told there is a service port on the front of the block that you can use to pull the pin once its installed, so you should be able to jump down to instruction 5, with the last step to use the service port to remove the pin**

1. Take the back plate off the new tensioner, 10mm socket should fit nicely.
2. Use the flat head to remove the little screw underneath.
3. Use the 5mm socket to back out another bolt under that, take it completely out.
4. DON'T LOOSE ANYTHING
5. Make sure the car is cool.
6. Pretty sure two 10mm bolts holding the timing chaing tensioner in place, remove them.
7. Remove the old tensioner. The O-rings are pretty tight, so it may take some effort.
8. After you remove the old tensioner, grab the new one. Point it in a safe direction, put your hand over the area with the pin (don't want anything to fall out!) and pull the pin.
9. After you pull the pin insert the new tensioner. Bolt the tensioner back on. (I don't remember the torque I used, hopefully someone can enlighten us).
10. Reinstall the 5mm bolt you removed earlier, don't over tighten and don't strip it. Snug is good.
11. Reinstall the flat screw, Snug don't kill.
12. Reinstall the back plate to keep it all together. Here you may want to use some lock tight, though I'd only use medium strength myself. Opinions may vary.

One thing to remember is your dealing with aluminum. You crank it to tight and you are going to strip it out.

Now, if you have a comptech SC... god help ya. The SC oil feed is in the way, and the bracket for holding the blower is in the way, and the comptech air box is in the way... Basically, the whole damn kit is in the way.

So, what do you do if you have this kit? Go from the bottom! I recommend doing at the same time as an oil change since your going to want to remove the oil filter anyway. Basically, the tensioner is right above the oil filter, right below the oil feed for the blower. Removing the filter will give you room to get up there. Its STILL a tight fit and I'd recommend a lift... or you'll regret it. Then you just follow the intructions above.

On hardtopguys website where the sell the tensioner they have a diagram showing where the tensioner is located, but no install instructions. So hopefully this helps somone.

Actually, I'm hoping someone will take what I put, clean it up and fill in the blanks. Or they can PM me and I'll add/correct the instructions.

Later.

B.C.

How much was the timing chain? How many hours did you spent?

sahtt

You don't need to replace the timing chain itself, at least not in this scenario. He is just replacing the tensioner which keeps the chain doing its job correctly.

stitos2k

Correct-O-Mundo.

The timing chain is supposed to be good for the life of the engine. If for some reason you need it replaced, you got bigger problems than the chain itself.

530s2k

I may be mistaken, but I'm pretty sure you bolt the new tensioner in, then pull the pin out through the maintence hole. Otherwise it's not going to set proper tension.

stitos2k

I know not of what maintenance hole you speak of, I've searched that block backwards forwards and upside down and there's no way to pull that pin once its in. Also the helm instructions that me and my mechanic used (good to have friends) specifically made mention of doing it as I wrote it.

BoostLE

I'm looking through the Genuine Honda S2000 2000-2003 manual and on page 6-48 it clearly shows how to properly remove and install the auto-tensioner. In short, you retract the plunger on the old unit before removing it, then install the new one with the pin intact. There's a service plug on the front of the block facing the airbox (you cant miss it, it lines right up with the auto-tensioner) that you remove to pull the pin.

I'm sure your method works too stitos2k, I just wanted to clarify what the manual says which the guys above were referencing.

stitos2k

Actually, my blower may be blocking the service port. I'll add a line in my instructions so people know that there is a different way.

apex2k

You should PM Billman on this, as he has considerable experience with the tensioners, but . . . If pulling the pin before mounting the tensioner has the same effect as re-using the old one after it has been removed, the timing chain is put under immense stress. A post from a while back described this situation which resulted in the chain breaking in a short time, I believe things got ugly (and expensive) at that point.

stitos2k

I'm don't see how it could. The way that the tensioner was insert the plunger/shaft was still in the same position as with the pin installed. There was no tension in the tensioner until AFTER it was installed.