vtec_just_kicked

Ok so, car is a MY01, just turned 120k miles.

Started making a ticking noise a couple weeks ago, but only under acceleration and for a split second upon startup, not when I let off the throttle. It progressively got worse until I convinced myself, "ya, I guess that DOES kinda sound like a card in bicycle spokes!" so I just now (like, 15 minutes ago) finished changing my TCT out. Started it up... aaaaand still had the tick. Let her warm up and drove it around the block, and yup, no dice. Tick is still there.\

SO. I know I'm gonna hear the, "do your valve adjustment" from y'all, but what else could it be? I'm about to lose my 'ish here. Any other possibilities? Could it be something as simple as an exhaust leak, or something as bad as a spun rod bearing?

Appreciate the help guys.

Billman250

We will all be wasting away at guesses without a sound clip.

vtec_just_kicked

Working on borrowing a worthwhile camera so the audio isn't crap... will post ASAP.

vtec_just_kicked

Ok epic fail on getting ahold of a camera with decent sound. I got a cellphone clip but I think the noise is apparent enough for you to get the gist of it.

ticking/rattling noise

Some more information. Startup is normal on cold startup, minus the slight tickticktick for a split second. Warm/hot startups, the engine seems to be sluggishly cranking. Also, in higher gears, there doesn't seem to be as much of the noise, even at WOT, but even a little gas in lower gears and the noise is super noticeable. I'm definitely leaning toward it being a valvetrain issue but some kind of confirmation (other than me pulling the valve cover off) would be reassuring.

vtec_just_kicked

Anybody have any ideas? Seems to be getting much worse, I drove her about a mile to my buddy's place in order to change the tranny and diff fluid. On the way back, the car stalled while driving and was somewhat reluctant to start again (shifts great now though haha). The noise is louder than ever and more prevalent while idling and throughout the rpm range. Needless to say, not driving anymore until I have some answers. Valve cover coming off tonight if I can get off work soon enough.

MBHs2k

After listening to your video I would honestly stop driving the car. That sounds worse than a valve adjustment issue or TCT.

Billman250

Spun bearing, guaranteed.

You can hear it clear as day on startup.

The right guy can fix it while you wait, right in the car.

If you continue to drive it to a point where the bearing material wears through and the hardened steel rod contacts the crank, game over. The motor will have to come out at that point.

Stop driving it now, find someone that can do the bearing in the car and micro polish the crank in the car.

vtec_just_kicked

Not sure if I will be able to find someone close by who is capable/knowledgeable enough to do what you are suggesting (I'm in the Clarksville/Ft. Campbell area, but Nashville is only about an hour away- anybody have any suggestions?). There are a couple of machine shops in the area with good reputations, but that would more than likely involve me dropping the crankshaft in order for them to perform any grinding/polishing to it.

So anyways, dropped the oil pan after work today, but that's about all I got done with the time I had. From a brief inspection, there is no VISIBLE damage, but I have yet to wiggle all the rods to see if any of them have any play or not. Fingers crossed its just going to need some polishing and a new rod bearing.

By the way, does anybody have any experience using a crank that has previously had a spun bearing? From what I can tell, everyone seems to think its a ticking time bomb.

vtec_just_kicked

Ok hate to ramble, but props to Billman. Truly the S guru. So sure as sh!t, I check cylinder 2 and 3 for any play, solid as a rock. Rotate the crank 180 degrees. Check cylinder 4. Solid. "Please God, don't let it be cylinder 1." And of course, as I twist my hand around the oil pump to check, I can easily move the rod maybe half a mm or so back and forth. Currently weighing my options, but would still really like to hear some input on whether or not a grind or micropolish of the crank is worth it. Reliability is paramount here. Thanks for everyones input to this point.