Mugen112

I threw this code out of no where right when I started the car about a week ago. I read on here that the ecu could have just picked up a signal from something else and may have been a one time deal.

I reset the ecu and it didn't turn back on. I went to the track on monday and spent more than 3+ hours out there without a single CEL. I drove all the way back home (1+hr) with no issues and no CEL.

So... the next day I think she needs a wash.. Get in the car and again there is a CEL right at start up. I haven't checked it but I'm sure it's the same code. I'll have to get this checked again tomorrow.

If it is the same code, is it possible that it's picking up a stray signal from somewhere or is it just starting to go out? My understanding is that the TPS is something that usually doesn't go out (but can). I just find it strange that it didn't give me any problems what so ever all day on the track and long commute, but the day after, right at start up, it throws a CEL...

I checked the voltage input to the tps at idle and it's at 5v which is where it's supposed to be at. I may check the resistance in the sensor tomorrow.

If I do end up needing a new TPS, there is no way I'm buying an entire TB.. I'll find a tps from somewhere.. But I have a question about that as well:
I understand I need to "clock" the new TPS. How do I go about doing this? Assuming its from another S2k.

Any help is appreciated.

Mugen112

bump

negcamber

Check the TPS voltage...it should be about .3v at idle and 4.5v at WOT with smooth progression up and down as the throttle is opened/closed.

Unfortunately, you have to replace the TPS if it is faulty. To get OEM, you'll need to buy a whole TP. Otherwise you might try this:

https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=589399

Mugen112

Thanks for the reply. I checked the TPS and it was a bit under those voltage readings so I moved the TPS a little until the voltage was about .5v closed and 4.7 volts WOT. Are these specs OK? I reset the ECU and reved the engine to 3k until the fans kicked on but then the EPS light came on. I hear this is normal, but the engine doesn't sound like it's idling normally. I wasn't able to take the car out because of rain, but it sounded like the engine was trying to find the correct idle rpm. It would fluctuate up and down about 200rpm (two hundred). Not a huge fluctuation, but enough to where it didn't sound normal. Also when I would rev the engine up, it would almost die when it went back down to idle. It actually died a couple of times I tried this. Any suggestions?

Mugen112

I'm thinking that the specs of .5v and 4.7v is too off to allow the engine to have a smooth idle. I went ahead and pulled a TPS off of a spare d-series civic TB and although the connector is oriented a little differently, I got all of the volts within spec (.3v - 4.5v) and she purs like new. I pulled the neg off the battery for a few mins and reset the ECU. Went for a drive. CEL was off after starting the car and the EPS light turned off about 10 seconds after I started the drive. I'm happy . Thx for the help and the great link negcamber.