melonheadr6

my2ks2k

wow. now i know why xviper and REDMX5 left.

attention, everyone:

my post was solely to inform OP and others in the same situation that i had experienced similar problems, can relate to what was happening, what my problem was, and what fixed it FOR ME. that is all. i was/am not advocating that a throttle body switch will fix heat soak, lack of torque from shifting at too low RPM, or any other problems.

there's no reason to make this personal, folks.

vincewchan

FF2Skip

You do? And you think it's because of posts like mine? I disagree. there's even a thread on the other site that talks about how folks on here respond to technical quesions. It turned rather funny actually.

And the time you took to detail your experience is appreciated, no doubt, but it didn't definitively chronicle what actually solved your problem. You were not able to pinpoint what was actually causing the problem.

Where was it ever personal to you? My frustration is with the OP and his failure to recognize(maybe yours, too) that improper driving is the cause and not necessarily a mechanical/electrical one. Common sense is all most folks ask for.

Additionally, I do not know it all. I frequently solicit help from folks met here on the board.

Bliss@5200

Why would you give the car WOT at 2000 RPMS thats kinda stupid imo if there is a reason for it let me know

my2ks2k

it sounds to me like you're saying that the car should bog, in first gear, at WOT.

i would agree that there is little torque at 1k RPM, and that it will take some time to build power.

however, i would disagree that it is incorrect driving to:
be stopped at a light, engage first gear, let the clutch out correctly, then apply throttle. IMO, given this scenario, i should be able to use as much throttle as i see fit, without the car bogging (assuming there isn't heat soak or any other problems.) my car used to run fine in this type scenario, and eventually started bogging hard. the CEL indicated a faulty TPS, so since i wasn't clear, that's what i'm attributing the fix to.

in my estimation, that's what the OP is describing; if it's not, then i misunderstood.

my2ks2k

also, FWIW, my car also used to do a lot of that shuddering where it would drop to 500 RPM or so when i came to a stop; after i changed the TB (with new MAP sensor and TPS), no more.

bluegas68

vtec9

throttle cable should have 1/4 inch deflection up and down. If you have, more, tighten it up a tad.

FF2Skip

No. What I was saying is that the car, in any gear, will stumble at WOT below a certain rpm range and most certainly below 2k. The OP clearly states(well, as clearly as he could) that the window of :FAIL: is confined to two inseparable parameters: 1) WOT and 2) below 2500 rpm. Both conditions must be present.

Well, I say, "No poop!" The OP also says that his throttle cable may be loose because he always shifts and goes WOT. Think about that for a second. From that imagery I, right-or-wrongly, get a picture of how this person drives/acts. My next question is "Why? Why is this person going full throttle at such low rpm's?" I cannot come up with any reason, let alone a good one.

Ever tried to drag the S2000? I have at a track. The car falls flat on its face unless the rpm's are at 5500 or above(AP1) unless you have crappy tires like ES100's or something. Ever have your car dyno'd? The roll-on starts around 3000-3500 rpm's... and it sounds like it's going to choke on itself until it starts climbing in rpm's.

These questions aren't directed solely at you. It's obvious that you tried to give a detailed answer. As I mentioned earlier, I appreciate that. Fact is, unless you're in first gear, you can always grab another gear in order to be in the proper rpm range. I promise if the OP continues to load the car up at such low rpm's, the plugs will foul. Unburnt fuel will also help wash away the cylinder wall lubricants, and eventually score the cylinder walls prematurely.