those who replaced their rear bearings
#11
Moderator
25-40 per side is reasonable. Thats what i charged when I had a machine shop biz.
They will have to:
-support knuckle, press out hub (sometimes hub can be driven out with brass drift)
-press off one race off hub, IF it sticks to the hub (90% chance it does)
-press out bearing
-press in new bearing, using cup to fit OD of bearing
-support BEARING by its ID, and press in hub
-this is the ONLY correct way to press a bearing assy.
Slows2k will confirm
They will have to:
-support knuckle, press out hub (sometimes hub can be driven out with brass drift)
-press off one race off hub, IF it sticks to the hub (90% chance it does)
-press out bearing
-press in new bearing, using cup to fit OD of bearing
-support BEARING by its ID, and press in hub
-this is the ONLY correct way to press a bearing assy.
Slows2k will confirm
#14
Originally Posted by Slows2k,May 3 2010, 10:03 PM
That's it, except race will stick on the hub 100% of the time in my experience.
the race stayed with the hub on the 3 i've done.
and no, you're not getting it apart without a press
that does seem high for one knuckle though...
#16
Originally Posted by Kyushin,May 4 2010, 04:56 PM
Is it possible to salvage a hub with a race stuck to it, and then just remanufacture it?
#17
Former Moderator
Not worth the labor $ to reuse a old wheel bearing, Reusing hub is fine. gives you the opportunity to install longer wheel studs if you want.
I cut the race with a die grinder them split it with a chisel. Billman turns the hub on a drill press while heating it with a torch. Since I don't have a torch or drill press at the shop, chisel and die grinder gets used.
I cut the race with a die grinder them split it with a chisel. Billman turns the hub on a drill press while heating it with a torch. Since I don't have a torch or drill press at the shop, chisel and die grinder gets used.
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